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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 2 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 67
Author
Which auto block device, Reverso 4 or ATC Guide?

gnaguts
2/07/2013
6:25:37 PM
On 2/07/2013 pecheur wrote:
>On 2/07/2013 ODH wrote:
>
>>I stuffed mine on an overhanging boulder problem after doing to many
>chinups the week before.
>
>Did ODH just admit to bouldering and training?! For shame...

It is called keeping sane at the lowest socio-economic and mental level, not bouldering and training. Fark, what's a bloke to do when his knee is rooted and he is recovering?

Miguel75
2/07/2013
6:35:40 PM
I forgot to mention I have the guide and it works beautifully with my 9mm doubles... In saying that, the reverso has really nice workmanship.

Duang Daunk
2/07/2013
6:46:52 PM
On 2/07/2013 Miguel75 wrote:
>I forgot to mention I have the guide and it works beautifully with my 9mm
>doubles... In saying that, the reverso has really nice workmanship.

OK M75, it is time to fess up.
How many belay devices do you actually have?

If you have more than Macciza I will be impressed, as you will top the gear whore stakes.

If you have the same number as simey then I will know you more often boulder from time to time, and are rapidly heading towards has-been status.

And if you have the same number as Wendy, then I will know you mostly only lead climb.

If you don't have any at all then I will be impressed about your soloing ability as well as your internet trolling skills.
pecheur
2/07/2013
7:13:14 PM
On 2/07/2013 Duang Daunk wrote:
>On 2/07/2013 Miguel75 wrote:
>>I forgot to mention I have the guide and it works beautifully with my
>9mm
>>doubles... In saying that, the reverso has really nice workmanship.
>
>OK M75, it is time to fess up.
>How many belay devices do you actually have?
>
>If you have more than Macciza I will be impressed, as you will top the
>gear whore stakes.
>
To be honest at one time I owned a Reverso 3, the previous ATC guide and a classic ATC. I no longer own the guide. 95% of the time I just use the Reverso, I use the ATC sometimes in the gym and I think about bringing it along when I'm going to do a lot of rappelling because the Reverso wears much faster than the BD stuff. Then I just think that I'm being a knob and leave it with the gear that doesn't get carried.

PS M9 can tell you about the guy (who shall remain nameless) who was carrying a Gri-gri, a reverso and a figure 8 whilst climbing ...

PPS Actually I forgot, someone gave me an old Stitch plate which I plan to use one day to belay with and scare newbies ...

Miguel75
2/07/2013
7:29:07 PM
On 2/07/2013 Duang Daunk wrote:
>On 2/07/2013 Miguel75 wrote:
>>I forgot to mention I have the guide and it works beautifully with my
>9mm
>>doubles... In saying that, the reverso has really nice workmanship.
>
>OK M75, it is time to fess up.
>How many belay devices do you actually have?

I'm sorry if I disappoint you DD; (listed in order of likability)
- 1 x BD guide
- 1x Grigri2
- 1 x Eddy (for self belay)
- 1 x stitch plate
- 1 x Madrock ATC thingy
- A plethora of munter hitches
- 1 x hip belayer I call Sancho
technogeekery
2/07/2013
7:33:30 PM
I still have an original stich plate. Perfectly safe, but switched to ATC-style 10 years ago cos they do bind up a lot and are irritating - you have to keep clearing the stich plate off the belay biner with your left hand to stop it binding. I had a sprung version too, and while that was better at staying off the biner, the spring would get into all sorts of tangles if you let it.

Funny, Ferno are still selling a version:


IdratherbeclimbingM9
Online Now
2/07/2013
8:01:07 PM
On 2/07/2013 pecheur wrote:
>PS M9 can tell you about the guy (who shall remain nameless) who was carrying a Gri-gri, a reverso and a figure 8 whilst climbing ...

You forgot to mention that he also had two chalkbags, one for each hand; ... but yes ODH, or was it studuangdaunkgang, ... my memory is failing me now... he shall remain nameless, however I managed to get a picture of his hat one time when he wasn't looking...


E. Wells
2/07/2013
9:55:45 PM
I actually climbed 'shandy' in Katoomba today with a autobloc style tubular device, a figure 8, and a grigri. Its grade 8 but felt more like a 9 to me.
kieranl
Online Now
2/07/2013
11:35:14 PM
I mostly climb on double ropes and I have never owned or used an autoblock device for use with them. I have mostly used leather gloves, sticht plate or standard ATC and they've worked for catching both leaders and followers. You can get a bit carried away with all this stuff.
pecheur
3/07/2013
9:13:43 AM
On 2/07/2013 kieranl wrote:
>I mostly climb on double ropes and I have never owned or used an autoblock
>device for use with them. I have mostly used leather gloves, sticht plate
>or standard ATC and they've worked for catching both leaders and followers.
>You can get a bit carried away with all this stuff.

Yeah that's because deep down you're a nice, hard working and conscientious guy of roughly average male size Kieran. If I suspect that someone's going to dog the pitch, whilst I can, I don't really like (especially if they weigh more than me) holding their weight for long periods of time, hence onto the autoblock [1].

Also a lot of the time I climb with people that I weigh over 30% more than (no I'm not talking about you :P). I feel better if they have some sort of assisted braking.

[1] I suspect I'm going to cop it sometime in the future from people who see I have them on autoblock ...
maxdacat
3/07/2013
9:27:18 AM
On 2/07/2013 pecheur wrote:
>On 2/07/2013 maxdacat wrote:
>>
>>I think it depends on what sort of climbing you do. If you do a lot
>of
>>multi-pitch then it can be quite handy to have a guide mode on your belay
>>device as opposed to the simple type.
>
>Really? On multipitch I generally pick a partner who I think can do the
>pitches relatively efficiently so I use the device in normal mode.
>
>I use the device in autoblock predominantly when I expect my partner to
>fall, so on harder stuff, single pitch to avoid the epics.
>
>Using autoblock on a fat single with an efficient partner is just asking
>for elbow strain.

Really? Maybe you're doing it wrong. In guide mode you just need one hand to pull the rope through which i find easy on any of my ropes, single or double. This can leave you free to grab a drink or take a photo etc. It doesn't work for every belay stance as sometimes the anchor may be at your feet. Not sure why you would auto block just for harder stuff.
Drake
3/07/2013
1:04:44 PM
>Using autoblock on a fat single with an efficient partner is just asking
>for elbow strain.

I was surprised how much the biner mattered to the smooth operation of an ATC in guide mode. Switching from a lightweight locker (e.g., nitron) to a more traditional locker with a round profile (e.g., petzl attache original, BD pear) made it substantially easier to pull in slack, even with a fat 10.2mm rope.
maxdacat
3/07/2013
2:13:05 PM
Speaking of guide mode, i had always been a little concerned to see euro climbers who just put a snap gate through the rope.

I think now Petzl have come out with instructions showing a screw gate through the rope instead.

I'm not sure why you wouldn't since for a couple of grams you could avoid the (admittedly highly unlikely) risk of something catastrophic happening.

vwills
3/07/2013
3:25:52 PM
I prefer an ATC guide on multipitch. My partner has a reverso. Much of a muchness. The advantage of these devices is you can take photos, eat muesli bar, have a drink and pee (while belaying)- possibly all simultaneously???. I dont use it if I have a partner who is likely to fall off into space- as I find unweighting it to lower a bit of a pain and sometimes I just use it in tube mode if I can run the rope up through an anchor and back to waist while being comfy on a ledge facing inwards. Not good with ropes over 10mm. Also great if 2 climbers seconding simultaneously.

But if you are just starting out get a regular tube device and learn how to use it properly....
BTW if any one finds an ATC guide with most of the anodising worn away near the Argentina pinnacle at Buladelah it is mine...... though I think it is probably time to get a new one.

ajfclark
4/07/2013
11:22:13 AM
I use a guide, frequently in autoblock mode, especially when bringing up two seconds on doubles with one on each rope.

As for getting sore elbows, I find the position of the belay device relative to the belayer has far more impact on the difficulty of pulling in slack than either the biner or rope does (though 10mm is much harder than 8.5mm). With the belay device behind you (and preferably high), life becomes much easier than if the belay device is close in to you.
One Day Hero
4/07/2013
3:19:28 PM
Also, it requires less energy to carry a gri gri up with you on lead than it does to suck a pitch length of 10mm rope through a reverso. Trust me on this.

For multipitch (and any other "belay from the top") routes;

If second is competent at the grade and certain to not arse around on the end of the rope;
-when using double ropes, reverso/guide on the anchors is good but normal atc on the harness is adequate
-when using single rope, gri gri on the anchor is good but gri gri or normal atc on the harness is adequate

However, if the second is likely to flap and dangle like a useless lump of shit and has no clue about pulling on gear to spare their leader from death by boredom;
-when using double ropes, take a guide/reverso
-when using single rope, take a gri gri
-also carry an ipod to block out the whining and "take take take!", and maybe a good book

I don't know why they still make non-reverso belay plates, you'd have to be an idiot to buy one.

ajfclark
4/07/2013
3:30:18 PM
On 4/07/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>I don't know why they still make non-reverso belay plates, you'd have to be an idiot to buy one.

What about these? ;-)



One Day Hero
4/07/2013
3:37:55 PM
Don't get me started on those things!
pecheur
4/07/2013
3:43:01 PM
On 4/07/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>Also, it requires less energy to carry a gri gri up with you on lead than
>it does to suck a pitch length of 10mm rope through a reverso. Trust me
>on this.
>
>For multipitch (and any other "belay from the top") routes;
>
>If second is competent at the grade and certain to not arse around on
>the end of the rope;
>-when using double ropes, reverso/guide on the anchors is good but normal
>atc on the harness is adequate

>-when using single rope, gri gri on the anchor is good but gri gri or
>normal atc on the harness is adequate
>
>However, if the second is likely to flap and dangle like a useless lump
>of shit and has no clue about pulling on gear to spare their leader from
>death by boredom;
>-when using double ropes, take a guide/reverso

>-when using single rope, take a gri gri
>-also carry an ipod to block out the whining and "take take take!", and
>maybe a good book
>
>I don't know why they still make non-reverso belay plates, you'd have
>to be an idiot to buy one.
>
I agreed with everything, except for the last bit. Sport climbers and permanent gym climbers should have non-autoblocks. Non autoblocks ones are cheaper and lighter, WAY too many noobs atm have Reverso 4s who'll NEVER use them in autoblock mode, complete waste of cash. My regular climbing partner's awesome but never wants to lead trad and is unlikely to lead multipitch sport without a more competent climber with her, she's got the new Guide, she'd be better off with the XP, save ten bucks and carry less weight.
One Day Hero
4/07/2013
4:35:41 PM
Yep, you'd have to gamble a whole 10 frigging bucks and 20 grams on whether you'll ever go multipitching...................probably better not to take the risk when the stakes are so high!?????

 Page 2 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 67
There are 67 messages in this topic.

 

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