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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

climbing in approach shoe
3:05:00 PM

5:24:00 PM
scarpa mojitos.
5:27:24 PM
I really like 510 camp 4 shoes. They are really durable and they climb well. Tried a pair of last sportivas once... Utterly terrible

6:57:34 PM
On 20/06/2013 Cliff wrote:
>For comfort, I've worn 5.10 Tennies for a while for steep moderate climbs
>& easy bouldering, but they are poor for smearing, outside edging, and
>edging < ~ 5mm, mostly bc they've stretched.
>Recommend an approach shoe good for climbing (volley's excepted)?

That is what I use mostly...

5.10's stretched eh?
~> Get a smaller pair!*

* (& no, I am not being facetious. I have two pair; one for general hiking, and another, deliberately slightly too small, for 'climbing-hiking').
8:31:05 PM
These are stylish and could be good in small pockets.

Big G
6:41:44 AM
On 20/06/2013 kieranl wrote:
>These are stylish
>and could be good in small pockets.

They look great but the price is something else... Nearly as expensive as anything by arcteryx

9:44:00 AM
On 20/06/2013 Cliff wrote:
>On 20/06/2013 BoulderBaby wrote: scarpa mojitos.
>How was the rubber?

Fantastic. They're made with Vibram 'Spyder' sole, so quite fantastic on wet rock/slate(In comparison to other vibram rubbers). They're all I wear(Like everyday). I've got 3 pairs. My current pair is about 3 years old, still has a sharp edge, and the suede hasn't stretched out (and I have orthotics in mine and a big foot for a girl) So I can't really fault mine. OH, and they come in all the colours of the rainbow. Super.
10:59:22 AM

They look quite cool, might give them a try when my Tennies wear out. I love my Tennies for their rock performance, but they are too flat / not enough arch support, and my plantar fasciitis flares up if I wear them on long hikes.
2:21:24 PM
I find a smooth sole OK as long as you watch where you put your feet. I like to be able to stretch my toes after cramping them in boots and i accept friction is important!

Mike Bee
2:29:53 PM
I have some mojitos, I'd say they are good rather than great.

For proper climbing, I'd rather something a bit stiffer as I find them very hard to use on smaller edges.
This may be how I fitted them (I have wide feet, so to make them a comfortable width I had to size them as street shoes, rather than approach shoes in length), but they are very soft, and even Scarpa advertise them as having a barefoot type sensation. The Zen look like a more technical option, if they are still around (too lazy to check right now).
Cam McKenzie
2:37:24 PM
I got a pair of La Sportiva Ganda's when I was in Europe and found them pretty good to climb in. Climbed the first half of Don Quixote on the Marmolada wearing them, which is up to around grade 17. They smeared pretty well, and edged as well as anything you can reasonably expect to walk in (certainly better than a pair of volleys).

Probably ridiculously expensive over here.

2:37:47 PM
I generally find it best to approach shoes for climbing from behind . . .

Duang Daunk
4:22:09 PM
On 21/06/2013 jrc wrote:

OK. Obviously everyone is being polite.
A soft shell and lycra? WTF??
Even at Araps that is obscene these days jrc. Half way up doggie with Macca and a bong you might get away with it, but as it is, it is even more old school than M9's repetative references to volleys.

4:58:24 PM
On 21/06/2013 Duang Daunk wrote:
>it is even more old school than M9's repetative references to volleys.
One day you will grow old too DD. It is a shame I likely won't be around then to say "I told you so!", when your own nostalgia sets in for the things you know work, verses some of the newfangled ideas!

12:37:00 AM
On 21/06/2013 Mike Bee wrote:
. The Zen look like a more technical option, if
>they are still around (too lazy to check right now).

Yeah the zens a defo more ridged - I have a pair and haven't really worn them but the boyfriend quite likes them once you get over the stiffness - pretty much the same as mojitos.
Online Now
8:39:24 AM
I dont know why people are knocking volleys. They are not the best climbing sandshoe but are great for approaches. shell out the extra $5 for the wide ones with the gum sole and stiffer mid sole. I get Lowes to order mine in.

There are 16 messages in this topic.


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