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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Poll Option Votes Graph
Yes, I use a prusik to backup most abseils. 52
53% 
No, I don't use a prusik to backup most abseils. 46
47% 

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 41
Author
Simple Poll: Prusik style backup to abseil or not

E. Wells
4/01/2013
8:08:12 PM
I havent read the comments to that vid but whatever that bundle of shite was tied around???his leg loop wasnt (evidently) an auto block. I use them on single strand wet ropes and engage them often enough. The real issue is people doing things they are not ready for! Why was he trying to walk down a slippery waterfall with big steps aaahhhhhhrr I shouldnt click on these things!

phillipivan
Online Now
4/01/2013
8:59:10 PM
On 4/01/2013 ajfclark wrote:
>I'm not sure this helps with either side of the argument, but it does involve
>abseiling and a prussic:

Lesson learned, do not climb or abseil with an accent that annoying.

climbau
5/01/2013
8:58:56 AM
I never use a prusik as a back-up when abseiling (rescued too many people off prusik back-ups). I use either a Shunt or an Autoblok if at all.


nmonteith
5/01/2013
9:22:25 AM
If I'm on a single stand then I use a Grigri. If its a double strand then I fix one end, rap down with my grigri - then get my partner to unfix the single end and rap with a normal ATC whilst I give them a firemans belay. Or if I really trust the anchor just simul rap with my partner both using grigris.
patto
5/01/2013
9:50:03 AM
On 5/01/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>If I'm on a single stand then I use a Grigri. If its a double strand then
>I fix one end, rap down with my grigri - then get my partner to unfix the
>single end and rap with a normal ATC whilst I give them a firemans belay.
>Or if I really trust the anchor just simul rap with my partner both using
>grigris.

While old-schoolers will cringe at such behaviour (Grigris), that is what I'm veering towards as recommended ways of backed up abseiling.

My poll was prompted by canyoning and the unnecessary danger prusiks add trying to avoid an infrequent danger of letting go of the abseil. A Grigri isn't the best for canyoning, but a Mammut Smart or similar would have the benefits of the autolock without the issue of moving parts in a hostile environment.

nmonteith
5/01/2013
1:44:32 PM
I use a petzel shunt when canyoning as it works with both ropes.

Cool Hand Lock
7/01/2013
9:31:52 PM
Real men use shunts,

Abseil backup,
hauling device,
rope climbing device.

plus the chicks love it

Eduardo Slabofvic
7/01/2013
9:44:36 PM
On 7/01/2013 Cool Hand Lock wrote:
>Real men use shunts,
>

Shunt rhymes with ......
patto
7/01/2013
9:57:55 PM
On 7/01/2013 Cool Hand Lock wrote:
>plus the chicks love it

But it is only rated for girths of 10-11mm. (unless you are using two at the same time)

wallwombat
7/01/2013
10:49:51 PM
I think it is actually at 3.678 of a micron on the Snorty-Blog scale.

The new one.

Not the old one.

Maybe 3.82
anthonycuskelly
8/01/2013
7:28:24 AM
Only if it looks like I'll need to untangle ropes or the next anchor is hard to reach. I particularly dislike the use of the prus(s)i(c)(k) off the leg loop, too, seems ripe for causing issues.
prb
8/01/2013
10:30:46 AM
Just to confirm, the spelling is prusik (after Dr Karl, but we can safely drop the capital). The pronounciation is as in prussic acid (ie. cyanide) which is what most of us say, not pru-sick.
martym
8/01/2013
11:48:35 AM
On 8/01/2013 prb wrote:
>Just to confirm, the spelling is prusik (after Dr Karl, but we can safely
>drop the capital). The pronounciation is as in prussic acid (ie. cyanide)
>which is what most of us say, not pru-sick.

you mean "Prew Sick" like the Euros say it...
johnpitcairn
8/01/2013
1:09:56 PM
My experience is vastly less than many who post here, but I've yet to have any problem with a leg-loop autoblock (not prusik) as backup. I always do this when I'm cleaning, or when the abseil is less than straightforward due to overhangs, vegetation, lousy visibility, whatever.

I use 5mm perlon accessory cord - it's necessary to adjust the number of wraps to the age/diameter of the abseil rope, and to allow for single- or double-strand abseils. If the number of wraps is small, you also need to watch the final length to ensure the prusik can't jam in the abseil device.

Aside from that, what specific concerns do y'all have with a leg-loop autoblock as abseil backup?

E. Wells
8/01/2013
1:34:41 PM
I totally agree johnarmpits, I think the problem lies within your post, you have to actually pat attention to the specific circumstance and adjust accordingly.

climbau
8/01/2013
2:06:49 PM
Re: dangermouth's comment on paying attention
x2

ajfclark
8/01/2013
3:12:54 PM
Speaking of paying attention to these things: backups on quick adjust legs loops can cause problems
anthonycuskelly
8/01/2013
3:15:55 PM
John: Do you check that prusik length based on your normal abseiling position? It's possible to slip sideways (and thus have one leg higher than the other) and jam the device with a 'short' loop.

If I'm going to bother using a prusik, I'll extend my belay device and have an autoblock under the device off my belay loop.
patto
8/01/2013
3:32:09 PM
On 8/01/2013 anthonycuskelly wrote:
>John: Do you check that prusik length based on your normal abseiling position?
>It's possible to slip sideways (and thus have one leg higher than the other)
>and jam the device with a 'short' loop.
>
>If I'm going to bother using a prusik, I'll extend my belay device and
>have an autoblock under the device off my belay loop.

Agree 100%.

Recently I've even heard of inexperience people flipping upside down and then expecting their leg prusik to work.
johnpitcairn
8/01/2013
4:27:01 PM
I use a fairly short loop, and generally over-wrap rather than under-wrap so there's minimal chance of the prusik being long enough to jam in the device even if I twist sideways (which has happened on occasion without jamming).

That said, I have recently changed harness to one with adjustable leg loops and need to look at this again since the leg loop is technically releasable - perhaps clipping inside the leg-loop as illustrated in the related link, or maybe extending the device.

Shunts are great and all, but extra weight is extra weight.

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 41
There are 41 messages in this topic.

 

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