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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 36
Author
First pair of climbing shoes
patto
12/12/2012
10:11:01 PM
Agreed with the cheap comment.

Eduardo Slabofvic
12/12/2012
10:59:30 PM
On 12/12/2012 patto wrote:
>
>I disagree for a first pair of shoes. Encouraging this is how beginners
>get sold shoes that are too small. Touching the end, without feeling bent
>is what I recommend in a first shoe.

I disagree with your disagree. Learning how to get power down through your toe is key to learning good foot work. A bent toe will do this better than a straight toe. Note how I said "not a personal challenge" which translates as meaning not "too" small, but small enough. The problem with a novice buying shoes from a climbing shop, is that the numpty serving them has only been climbing a few months themselves and knows SFA
dalai
12/12/2012
11:30:36 PM
On 12/12/2012 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>I disagree with your disagree.

And I agree with your disagree Eduardo... If you walk out of the store with comfortable shoes, once they have molded / stretched they will be useless in a very short time. With sloppy footwork enhanced by big shoes only speeds up the process of wearing them out!

Not suggesting footbinding tight (though that is how I wear them), but snug around the foot with the toes all the way to the ends with the big toe bent. A tight shoe strengthens the foot; reducing fatigue of the feet as the shoe helps support the beginners weaker foot muscles.

My first pair were a pair of delightful boats (intentional) I picked up from MD's were Claws designed Scorpions. No help from staff and I happily walked out with comfortable boots, which ended up in a short time way too large even with thick socks...

Cheaper is a good idea, as beginners will wear out their shoes quicker.

anthonycuskelly
13/12/2012
8:21:28 AM
I'm with Eduardo: He said c--ked, not mushed. The toe should be at least slightly bent, otherwise you may as well be wearing skate shoes.

Eduardo Slabofvic
13/12/2012
8:30:22 AM
On 13/12/2012 anthonycuskelly wrote:
>I'm with Eduardo: He said c--k

tee hee hee

I also recommend trying as many different brands as is humanly possible, so you find the one that fits your foot the best. The best shoe I ever had was the black and green Boreal Aces when they first came out. They fitted my heel perfectly.
gfdonc
13/12/2012
10:46:34 AM
I dunno about that tight shoes bit.
I've got a pair of tight shoes that I need to take off every pitch, and they do make a difference, on certain routes and above certain grades. Below that, I'd rather be comfortable, and the shoes difference is half psychological.

I bought a pair of TC Pros two years ago, two sizes too big, so I could aid in them all day on El Capitan. I now find even after they're broken in that they work pretty well on routes up to about 18 or 19 without becoming the limiting factor. And of course they're bloody comfortable.

My advice is to get something that edges well, many shoes get too floppy, and the stiffer midsole will be more comfortable in cracks.

shortman
13/12/2012
2:38:06 PM
On 12/12/2012 BoulderBaby wrote:
>I have a pair of 48's and 50's at Paddy's ringwood for $50. Probs on the
>big side though. I've sold though all the mid range sizes though :(

Got anything in a 47 BoulderBaby?

BoulderBaby
13/12/2012
10:37:46 PM
I don't think we do anymore. We're clearing out all the older model scarpa's - Mago, Stix, Thunders, Forces etc..

We don't have any hardwear at ringwood anymore, but we have the occasional harness(a few arcteryx right now) and generally have scarpa climbing shoes to clear out.
Cam McKenzie
Online Now
14/12/2012
8:05:13 AM
On 13/12/2012 BoulderBaby wrote:
>I don't think we do anymore. We're clearing out all the older model scarpa's
> - Mago, Stix, Thunders, Forces etc..
>
>We don't have any hardwear at ringwood anymore, but we have the occasional
>harness(a few arcteryx right now) and generally have scarpa climbing shoes
>to clear out.

You don't happen to have any Scarpa Vision's do you?

blueskyblonde
14/12/2012
9:34:13 AM
I've worn lots of shoes, I bet if I think about it real hard I can remember my first pair of shoes.




mitchell101
15/12/2012
8:14:40 PM
Went into the city today and did the rounds (albeit the small rounds) from Bogong to Mountain Designs to Paddy Pallin. It was out of two pairs of shoes - la sportiva mythos for $129 (down from $200 (the shoes were different sizes (not that I noticed))) and evolv royale for $110. I went with the royale because the mythos were slightly too big.

The were a little uncomfy but just a little. Big toe was only slightly bent.

Went rock climbing at Burnley afterwards and climbed until I couldn't move my fingers anymore (which didn't take much).
One of the holds was loose on wall 2 if anyone wants to know. It was the first large blue handhold closest to the yarra.

Now I don't get to use them again until Christmas :(


IdratherbeclimbingM9
15/12/2012
8:20:02 PM
On 15/12/2012 mitchell101 wrote:
>Went into the city today and did the rounds (albeit the small rounds) from
>Bogong to Mountain Designs to Paddy Pallin. It was out of two pairs of
>shoes - la sportiva mythos for $129 (down from $200 (the shoes were different
>sizes (not that I noticed))) and evolv royale for $110. I went with the
>royale because the mythos were slightly too big.
>
>The were a little uncomfy but just a little. Big toe was only slightly
>bent.
>
>Went rock climbing at Burnley afterwards and climbed until I couldn't
>move my fingers anymore (which didn't take much).
>
>Now I don't get to use them again until Christmas :(
>
>
Good one!

Get used to waiting! ~> Anticipation is half the joy of the addiction to climbing / new gear / new places / etc! ... and in the meantime your training will pay off later on the rock.

Miguel75
15/12/2012
8:53:39 PM
On 15/12/2012 mitchell101 wrote:
>...SNIP... Went rock climbing at Burnley afterwards and climbed until I couldn't
>move my fingers anymore (which didn't take much).
>One of the holds was loose on wall 2 if anyone wants to know. It was the
>first large blue handhold closest to the yarra.
>
>Now I don't get to use them again until Christmas :(

Excellent work Mitchell, sounds like a great day. The loose hold (along with lots of other holds) may be pulled, cleaned and reset tomorrow as there's a working bee on... Feel free to head on down.

EDIT; Here's the link;
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=15&MessageID=23352&Replies=6#NewPost

shortman
16/12/2012
12:07:18 AM
I don't think there was a LARGE blue hand hold on wall 2 until today. I think the route setting was done today.

Miguel75
16/12/2012
11:00:05 AM
On 16/12/2012 shortman wrote:
>I don't think there was a LARGE blue hand hold on wall 2 until today. I
>think the route setting was done today.

Haha, I just realized yesterday was Saturday, and the day of the working bee...

I'm a little lost when it comes to days of the week, either in working or I'm not;)
mitchell101
16/12/2012
6:14:01 PM
The working bee had already been done but I'm not sure if the resetting was totally finished. There were some totally new plastics but you couldn't really do one colour if you wanted to because there weren't enough holds. On wall 1 there are a lot of holds down low but pretty much none higher up. I didn't try wall 3.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 36
There are 36 messages in this topic.

 

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