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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 36
Author
First pair of climbing shoes
mitchell101
12/12/2012
11:10:22 AM
Hey guys, Mitch from Endeavour Hills here (near Dandenong),
Just wondering what I should be looking for in a pair of shoes and if there is anywhere local I can go to to try on and buy a pair. Just looking for a cheapish pair from I guess $0-150 - I will just be climbing infrequently at Burnley.

Any help will be appreciated. I don't know if it helps but my runner size is 12 US.

Thanks, Mitch.

shortman
12/12/2012
11:15:38 AM
Don't listen to the shops and buy a pair 3 sizes too small. Get something comfortable.
dalai
Online Now
12/12/2012
11:45:52 AM
On 12/12/2012 shortman wrote:
>Don't listen to the shops and buy a pair 3 sizes too small. Get something
>comfortable.

Go at least one size too small. Regardless of manufacturers advertising, shoes do stretch / give a little even if lined...

I recommend a shoe built on a simple last shape (not a high tech banana shaped shoe) and ideally laces that go down to the toe. Make sure there is still room to tighten the laces further; especially if you have listened to Shortman and gone comfortable to begin with...
Olbert
12/12/2012
12:17:17 PM
If you get a tight shoe you will be able to gain that extra half a pull out of tiny feet. They will also be too uncomfortable to wear for long periods of time and I'm guessing that you wont be pulling onto routes that that will matter anyway.

I agree with Shortman, go for cheap and cheerful. Get something comfortable. If you get something comfortable then you cant go wrong. At beginner grades it really wont matter that you cant pull onto that tiny nubbin because there wont be any.
dawyndham
12/12/2012
12:31:29 PM
On 12/12/2012 mitchell101 wrote:
>Just wondering what I should be looking for in a pair of shoes and if
>there is anywhere local I can go to to try on and buy a pair.

Bayside Rock in Carrum Downs would be the easiest place to get some. Hardrock in Nunawading would be almost as close on paper, but much worse traffic.

ajfclark
12/12/2012
12:34:24 PM
If you can make it to the city, there's a few places on Little Bourke st near Hardware ln. Bogong, Mountain Designs (upstairs) and Paddy Pallin all stocked shoes (though Paddys might not anymore?). Hardrock in the city also has some.
Olbert
12/12/2012
12:45:05 PM
As for sizing I would strongly suggest that buying a shoe on the advice that "you need to get a climbing shoe that is [1,2 or 3] sizes smaller than your street shoe" is a bad idea. Every climbing shoe brand (and different models) have different sizing and even if you manage to get the right size will probably not get the right 'fit'. If you can get to anywhere that you can try shoes on then that would be the best option by far!
GusR
12/12/2012
12:45:17 PM
I used to buy aggressive small rigid shoes and they always hurt like hell after an hour or so. I recently bought a pair of the stock standard Evolv Royales. They are really comfy and flexible, my feet don't go numb, and this probably makes me climb better ironically!

The retailers love the term 'entry level' as this obviously appeals to a beginner market, but I don't think this term means anything at all. There are plenty of experienced sports people who are doing advanced things with 'entry level' gear.

Oh and I used to get shoes with Velcro - but cos I bash and scrape my foot desperately along the rock, I have torn through the velcro on a couple of pairs. I reckon I'll stick with lace ups from now on!
mitchell101
12/12/2012
1:12:11 PM
Wow. I wasn't expecting so many replies! I know where to ask any questions that I have about rock climbing now :D

I'll definitely go with a comfy shoe which is tight but not too tight. Like I said I will just climb occasionally at Burnley. I would love to get into rock climbing more but am a bit limited with transport though because I don't have my drivers license yet.

I'm going to Fountain Gate this arvo so will call in at Anaconda and Rays Outdoors - I don't expect them to have much if anything but it's worth a go since I'm there any way.

Will probably end up going to Carrum Downs or into the city though.

Thanks for the help guys.

Miguel75
12/12/2012
2:36:10 PM
On 12/12/2012 mitchell101 wrote:
>... SNIP... I'm going to Fountain Gate this arvo so will call in at Anaconda and Rays
>Outdoors - I don't expect them to have much if anything but it's worth
>a go since I'm there any way.... SNIP

I think Anaconda has moved most of their climbing gear out to their Bayswater store though in saying that they stock Madrock which can be bought pretty cheep. If you look, and are desperate you can find some bouldering at lysterfield, or Ben Cairn which is rad, and just past Healsville...

Enjoy yourself climbing. It's pretty rad;)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
12/12/2012
2:40:49 PM
On 12/12/2012 dalai wrote:
>Go at least one size too small. Regardless of manufacturers advertising,
>shoes do stretch / give a little even if lined...
>
>I recommend a shoe built on a simple last shape (not a high tech banana
>shaped shoe) and ideally laces that go down to the toe. Make sure there
>is still room to tighten the laces further; especially if you have listened
>to Shortman and gone comfortable to begin with...

Don't believe the hype!
The perfect pair of Burnley climbing shoes can be found here!
;-)

shortman
12/12/2012
5:02:30 PM
On 12/12/2012 mitchell101 wrote:
>Wow. I wasn't expecting so many replies! I know where to ask any questions
>that I have about rock climbing now :D
>
>I'll definitely go with a comfy shoe which is tight but not too tight.
>Like I said I will just climb occasionally at Burnley. I would love to
>get into rock climbing more but am a bit limited with transport though
>because I don't have my drivers license yet.
>
If you're in Endeavour Hills. Go to Lysterfield Park and boulder. Closer, better than burnley, ride your bike?

Eduardo Slabofvic
12/12/2012
5:13:06 PM
Buy a pair that are lined, they last longer and will be able to be resoled more times. Climbing shoes are at their best when they've got their first resole.
mitchell101
12/12/2012
6:20:17 PM
I went to Anaconda and they had a section with rock climbing shoes. They only had 3 different mad rock shoes though - I tried on each type but none were really the right fit. I had to go up to a size 14 (I'm runner size 12) to get the right fit length-wise but then it would be too loose.

Tried on mad rock flash, phoenix and frenzy. The frenzy was the closest fit but wasn't quiet right. My foot is long and thin. Does each brand make shoes to fit a particular foot type or do they all make shoes for different shaped feet?

How much do rock climbing shoes stretch?

@ Eduardo - What do you mean by a pair that is lined?

I'll definitely go bouldering at Lysterfield some more. I've done it a little bit but didn't want to be too adventurous because I was by myself.


rodw
12/12/2012
6:43:36 PM
I know flashes stretch and should be good for a thinner foot...Ive got them and they have stretched heaps to accommodate. ...I like my shoes very very tight but thats just me....get a cheap pair for ya first...they will be trashed in no time anyway and then you will have a better idea of what ya like anyway.
mitchell101
12/12/2012
7:43:06 PM
I don't think they had the flashes in the right size so I couldn't really get a feel for 'em. I don't think their shape was right though. I'll keep looking though. Next time I go to burnley with my neighbour I'll see if he can take me to little bourke street.

BoulderBaby
12/12/2012
7:54:39 PM
I have a pair of 48's and 50's at Paddy's ringwood for $50. Probs on the big side though. I've sold though all the mid range sizes though :(

Eduardo Slabofvic
12/12/2012
9:44:41 PM
On 12/12/2012 mitchell101 wrote:
>
>
>@ Eduardo - What do you mean by a pair that is lined?

They have a canvas or some other kind of fabric that lines the inside of the shoe, which has the dual effect of making the shoe hold together longer than non lined ones, as well as maybe stretching a little less.

Note that tight is not a personal challenge, but you want your big toe c--ked a bit.

Because they will last a bit longer, you can resole them a couple of time before the blow out completely. It would be rear for any shoe to take more than 3 or so resoles before they are totally trashed.

The joy is, that by the time you've worn out the 1st sole, the shoe has formed to your foot like a glove, so that when you get a new sole, its fits perfectly and has a good amount of rubber. I've generally found that each successive resole is just a little less good, but sadly, you ultimately have to let your boots move on to the great crag in the sky (sob).

Your second pair of shoes will be a better choice.

Good luck.
patto
12/12/2012
10:05:30 PM
On 12/12/2012 mitchell101 wrote:
>Just wondering what I should be looking for in a pair of shoes

Comfort, comfort, comfort and a snug fit.

There is alot of technical stuff about shoes but honestly its your first pair, buy on comfort and snug. Lining, good last, good quality for resoles are all good characteristics, but for you first shoe I would ignore all that. Just get something that feels right at a budget you can afford.

Mad rock are a budget shoe and often not as good "quality", but currently my favourite pair I wear are Mad Rocks I bought on special for $40! Last weekend though I bought some Muiras which are without a doubt high quality, but they retail for $240.

You are less likely to get good advice at Anaconda, the sales assistants likely wont climb. Bayside climbing gym, Nudawading Climbing Gym and Wilderness Shop in Box Hill have staff that can give good advice. The latter two are close to train stations.

On 12/12/2012 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>Note that tight is not a personal challenge, but you want your big toe
>c--ked a bit.
I disagree for a first pair of shoes. Encouraging this is how beginners get sold shoes that are too small. Touching the end, without feeling bent is what I recommend in a first shoe.
One Day Hero
12/12/2012
10:08:33 PM
Yep, like everyone is saying, make sure they're reasonably comfortable. I would also suggest buying the cheapest comfortable shoes you can find, for two reasons.

First, unless you're super talented, your shoes won't be a limiting factor for quite a while, since your abysmal footwork will completely dwarf any effect from the shoes.

Second, most beginners grind holes in their first pair of shoes in a very short time (I had toes poking out in less than 3 months!) The less you pay for 'em, the easier it will be to accept that they needed to be martyred on the journey to good footwork.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 36
There are 36 messages in this topic.

 

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