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BD QC Lab - can a hot belay device melt a sling?

Miguel75

17-Oct-2012
7:54:38 PM

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/all/qc-lab-can-a-hot-belay-device-melt-my-rappel-slings

How much fun do you reckon these guys have at work!

wallwombat

17-Oct-2012
8:01:25 PM

A lot more since everything is now made in China.

Seth

17-Oct-2012
8:04:25 PM

Actually the Salt Lake facility is still in full swing.

And the QC fellas look like they have a lot of fun coming up with new ways to break gear!

cheers,
seth

Miguel75

17-Oct-2012
8:12:50 PM

Salt Lake is a city of fun, just not Vegas style fun;) BD know this and it shows in the fun-ness of their gear;)

shortman

17-Oct-2012
10:00:36 PM

Salt Lake city just makes me think of Karl Malone and the Man Mountain Mark Eaton.

Miguel75

17-Oct-2012
11:24:16 PM

Hell yeah buddy, Stockton, Malone, Hornacek, Eaton... The Jazz's glory days;)

E. Wells

18-Oct-2012
7:01:07 AM

Salt Lake City makes me think of a Lake of Salt with a City on it. I thought Jazz glory days were in the 80's when Stanley Clarke did coke and ditched his bass for a synth guitar. Matter of opinion I guess.

shortman

18-Oct-2012
7:26:46 AM

On 17/10/2012 Miguel75 wrote:
>Hell yeah buddy, Stockton, Malone, Hornacek, Eaton... The Jazz's glory
>days;)

Hornacek!?! Now you're getting confused with the Suns and KJ and Majerle.

technogeekery

18-Oct-2012
9:38:49 AM

Thats a fun test - and provides some useful information. I've always made an effort to get the rap device off the rope asap after long hot raps - probably still will, but won't worry about it as much as looks like the chances of it doing real damage to a nylon rope are small.

Zarb

18-Oct-2012
9:49:40 AM

On 18/10/2012 dangermouth wrote:
>Salt Lake City makes me think of a Lake of Salt with a City on it. I thought
>Jazz glory days were in the 80's when Stanley Clarke did coke and ditched
>his bass for a synth guitar. Matter of opinion I guess.

Salt Lake City makes me think of Mormons...

IdratherbeclimbingM9

18-Oct-2012
10:38:46 AM

On 18/10/2012 technogeekery wrote:
>Thats a fun test - and provides some useful information. I've always made
>an effort to get the rap device off the rope asap after long hot raps -
>probably still will, but won't worry about it as much as looks like the
>chances of it doing real damage to a nylon rope are small.

For the most part I agree, and for anyone that has been around a while it simply confirmed (with some data to back it up), what many of us already suspected/knew.

I was a bit disappointed with the 'retrieve device by fishing line' test to find out about cumulative heat build up, as multipitch abseils don't normally involve the air cooling induced by that method!

Regarding heat build up in abseil devices, I can vouch for the fact that even on very slow abseils, if done on longer than standard ropes, the heat can build up surprisingly quickly.
I have seen rope sheath-glaze on standard rope lengths (distributed along certain lengthy portions of it), caused by fast abseiling. I have also seen rope sheath-glaze at very specific location (at point of unclipping device), caused by very slow but overly long (100 m⁺) abseils, particularly where heavy loads (like haulbags), were involved.

Miguel75

18-Oct-2012
12:26:39 PM

On 18/10/2012 shortman wrote:
>Hornacek!?! Now you're getting confused with the Suns and KJ and Majerle.

Au contraire mon ami;) Hornacek did indeed play for the Jazz, I think 93-2000ish...

On 18/10/2012 Zarb wrote:
>Salt Lake City makes me think of Mormons...

Seriously! Doesn't matter where you go you can't escape them;)

And M9, thanks for your thoughts too. I've never glazed a rope but was quite interested in what might happen rapping with a pig...

shortman

18-Oct-2012
12:40:38 PM

On 18/10/2012 Miguel75 wrote:
>On 18/10/2012 shortman wrote:
>>Hornacek!?! Now you're getting confused with the Suns and KJ and Majerle.
>
>Au contraire mon ami;) Hornacek did indeed play for the Jazz, I think
>93-2000ish...

I know, but he was more a part of the Suns revival when KJ came along, and I always thought that him and Stockton never worked that well together. Utah just seemed to slow. In my mind he was a Sun thru and thru.

martym

18-Oct-2012
1:57:50 PM

On 17/10/2012 Miguel75 wrote:
>http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/all/qc-lab-can-a-hot-belay-device melt-my-rappel-slings
>
>How much fun do you reckon these guys have at work!

Looks fun - but some pretty valid questions at the bottom - particularly that they did all their tests on a single strand - whilst (assumed) most people would use 2 ropes when rappelling?
If (a big if) that makes a difference, most of the data needs to be updated!

Miguel75

18-Oct-2012
3:38:22 PM

There's also a pretty good discussion about the testing on Mountainproject;

http://mountainproject.com/v/can-a-hot-rap-device-melt-through-your-slings/107837133

One Day Hero

18-Oct-2012
7:41:11 PM

On 18/10/2012 dangermouth wrote:
>I thought
>Jazz glory days were in the 80's when Stanley Clarke did coke and ditched
>his bass for a synth guitar. Matter of opinion I guess.

Man, what the hell went wrong with Stanley? I always wonder whether his long term expedition up his own arsehole was a symptom of the general musical decline in the 80s, or if he was just following the standard trajectory of musical prodigies? The early stuff he did with Chick Corea in the 70s is legendary, but the later shit............farking unlistenable!

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