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Abseiling off a munter hitch

ado_m

4/10/2012
12:41:55 PM

Tech question - can you abseil off a doubled munter hitch? ie you drop your belay device, don't have 6/7 oval shaped biners to make a substitute and don't like body belaying your way down.....is this is the easiest way down? or should you have two separate munters?

Kieranl

4/10/2012
12:51:17 PM

Can't see why not. I've Belayed and lowered a second using a Munter on double ropes with no problems apart from the rope twisting that you get with a munter.

cruze

4/10/2012
1:00:52 PM

I rapped off a double-munter 10.2 mm fuzzy single which was wet/icy on the weekend using a reaonably small HMS biner. I am still alive.

And I have done both the two ropes in one munter knot and the two separate munter knots (one per strand) techniques previously. All good. But I am careful.

climbau

4/10/2012
1:04:45 PM

Or you could use the Carabiner Twist method if the biner is large enough.

PDRM

4/10/2012
5:23:12 PM

I've abseiled off a Munter a few times. No probs and you can easily add extra friction. Your rope will be twisted into spaghetti though if that matters to you.

P

mikllaw

4/10/2012
5:23:59 PM

2 ropes through a biggish biner on a Munter is ok but slow. If there are 2 of you, the first could abseil on a Munter on 1 rope, then the other come down on conventional gear to untwist the ropes

another dave

4/10/2012
7:07:51 PM

I have done a multipitch rap on a double munter. We had a 13mm rope which didn't fit our belay devices
oddly if you held the rope in such away that the rope came straight out of the munter and not curve round the spine (vague memories) it didn't twist. However if you held it so that it did curve the ropes get so tangled that knots in the talls become redundant as you spend all your time trying to untangle them that it was easier to get off the rope and untangle than rap off the ends

widewetandslippery

4/10/2012
7:11:14 PM

A snafu is the double rope wog knot with no locking biner. Make sure the spine of the biner faces the thumb in the bum hand or the rope will open the gate

patto

4/10/2012
9:06:39 PM

Due to me being slow to replace lost my belay device with a sparkling new Reverso 4 I haven't had a belay device always on my rack recently. (despite having 18 or so cams)

As a consequence I've been rapping and belaying quite often with the munter. It works very well apart from the rope twisting issue. For multipitch rappels this could be dangerous if the rope get stuck.

egosan

5/10/2012
9:12:00 AM

If your ropes are thin enough a double/monster/super munter eliminates the rope twisting.

martym

5/10/2012
9:55:52 AM

you could try siml-seiling
both climbers abseil on one strand each, use a prussick to ensure neither outruns the other.

Fish Boy

5/10/2012
11:07:21 AM

On 5/10/2012 egosan wrote:
>If your ropes are thin enough a double/monster/super munter eliminates
>the rope twisting.

This.

Muki

14/10/2012
10:53:07 AM

The monster mounter eliminates all twisting, it's also fine. For double ropes, but you would need a large
HMS binder (pear shaped) to make life easier.
As an aside the super is so much more friction that it would be ideal for a twin person rappel, ie where you connect the casualty to you and rap together in a rescue situation.

There are 13 messages in this topic.