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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author

Evolv Shaman


SixFortyFive

19-Sep-2012
10:04:49 PM

Has anyone out there got a pair of these they've been wearing for a while? I'm looking to get a pair and am interested to know how much they stretch. Cheers.

aaw

20-Sep-2012
8:50:39 AM

Mine stretched about half a size and after a year of a lot of use have lost their shape.

Hugh

20-Sep-2012
12:07:59 PM

Have only had mine a couple of months, so time will tell but:

1) Very well fitting - shoe fits your foot, not the foot fitting the shoe
2) Solid sticky rubber and a great heel (made for hooking)
3) The toe box adds to the comfort but I've found it a) reduces what you can use for toe hooks and b) 4) obstructs your view of the shoes edge... Can be an issue of you're a numpty like me
4) Strapping/lacing system wears quickly...
5) Smell... Have had worse

The crux of it... If you're on a budget this is a good shoe for hard bouldering and steep routes. If you do have a little more cash then perhaps check out some of the higher end 5.10 or La Sportiva shoes...


Climboholic

20-Sep-2012
4:18:43 PM

The 'love bumps' are the tits!

A stupid name but it works. Probably marketed towards yank sports wankers.

One Day Hero

20-Sep-2012
7:06:50 PM

Hugh, has it ever occurred to you that not everyone's feet are the same shape as your feet? (revolutionary concept, I know). It cracks me up when people review climbing shoes with shit like "fits your foot perfectly".................which actually means "fits my foot perfectly". Climbing shoes; try em on. If they don't fit your feet they're utterly useless to you, end of story.

If anyone needs a laugh, go check out Hugh's training page, hilarious! Apparently improving climbing ability mostly revolves around directing growth hormone to flow towards your forearms :D

Hugh

20-Sep-2012
9:52:39 PM

Lol... Troll.. You make me laugh

Hugh

20-Sep-2012
10:00:01 PM

And yes, SPAM , check out my page.. aclimbersdiary.blogspot.com

Just my thoughts on some of the scientific aspects of climbing

One Day Hero

20-Sep-2012
10:48:20 PM

Not quite. More like your random ramblings using scientifical words. I'm guessing that you're an undergrad sport science student?

Hugh- "I've got it all figured out, being a good climber is simple. Just make the growth hormones flow to your forearms."

Wolfgang Gulich (whilst choking back tears of frustration)- "Climbing is so fuching complicated!"

Hugh

20-Sep-2012
10:55:37 PM

Na mate keep guessing...

Anyway, what do you think of those shoes?

One Day Hero

20-Sep-2012
10:59:13 PM

I dunno, never tried em :)

Physio student? Or maybe engineering

Hugh

20-Sep-2012
11:04:06 PM

Almost there...

If you've got a widish foot and little money you should try them

One Day Hero

20-Sep-2012
11:18:37 PM

Med?

I've got such wide feet that most of the time the number of current climbing shoe models which fit me is 1 or 0.......a friend of mine has even wider feet. Trust me, there's a little network of hobbit footed freaks and within hours of a proper wide model shoe hitting the market we all know about it :)

Hugh

21-Sep-2012
7:30:39 AM

PM me dude!


ajfclark

21-Sep-2012
8:15:34 AM

Bah, more people would be interested in that than just Cliff.

I always figured it was because I hold my breath like a mo-fo.


shortman

21-Sep-2012
8:34:39 AM

Anticipation will raise ur HB.


Duang Daunk

21-Sep-2012
11:32:23 AM

On 21/09/2012 shortman wrote:
>Anticipation will raise ur HB.

Thats a loaded statement if ever there was one. You and simey ought to team up as you have a lot in common!

crackalackin!

21-Sep-2012
12:34:48 PM

On 20/09/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>I've got such wide feet that most of the time the number of current climbing
>shoe models which fit me is 1 or 0.......a friend of mine has even wider
>feet. Trust me, there's a little network of hobbit footed freaks and within
>hours of a proper wide model shoe hitting the market we all know about
>it :)

How do I join the hobbit network? I've never had well fitting climbing shoes.....

Mike Bee

21-Sep-2012
1:12:54 PM

On 20/09/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Med?
>
>I've got such wide feet that most of the time the number of current climbing
>shoe models which fit me is 1 or 0.......a friend of mine has even wider
>feet. Trust me, there's a little network of hobbit footed freaks and within
>hours of a proper wide model shoe hitting the market we all know about
>it :)

ODH, what shoes do you find work for you then?
I've got pretty wide feet (US11, between E and EE width last time I measured) and I find that Anasazis are the best fitting last for me out of what I've tried so far. Always open to other suggestions.


rodw

21-Sep-2012
2:22:07 PM

I too suffer the wide foot syndrome...I have always tended towards lace ups with varying success...I currently own however madrock flash 2.0....the are velcro and are suited towards a skinnier foot ...but strangely enough they are very snug on my feet and feel good....just look a bit funny on my feet try and bust out of the top with the velcro straps barely being long enough to attach....I've had them for several months now and have stretched for a better fit and am very happy with them

One Day Hero

21-Sep-2012
6:12:16 PM

On 21/09/2012 Mike Bee wrote:
>
>ODH, what shoes do you find work for you then?
>I've got pretty wide feet (US11, between E and EE width last time I measured)
>and I find that Anasazis are the best fitting last for me out of what I've
>tried so far. Always open to other suggestions.

That simply does not compute. Anasazis have always appeared to be almost the skinniest shoe on the market. I usually wear climbing shoes between 39 and 40, the smallest anasazi I can physically squeeze my foot into is 43 (toes smushed from the sides but still 2cm of empty air at the front)

The only current model which I've found that fits ok are Testarossas. They're pretty wide, have a lot of volume in the toe box, and are made of leather so you can wet and stretch them out. Shame they're so wanky curvy, not gold for long routes (however, my super wide mate uses them for hard cracks and slabs and everything, cause he really can't get into anything else). I have been thinking about getting some leather Evolves and doing the wet and stretch trick to them, but they really don't fit me well straight out of the box, so it's a bit of a gamble (also, the rubber seems a bit shit)

There are 23 messages in this topic.