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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 58
Author
New rope, how skinny?
One Day Hero
4/09/2012
10:39:18 PM
On 4/09/2012 Cliff D wrote:
>I agree with shorty (and so with M9 & ODH), al biners cause black hands;
>and I find this is made worse with dry treated ropes.

Hey, don't drag me into M9's groupthink crap. You get a bit of black shit off biners when you're aiding, but the super sticky crap while sport climbing is different.

Some ropes give you black hands, some don't. Now try to follow me here.........the ones which give you black hands are dry treated, the ones which don't aren't. Therefore, the whole aluminium oxide thing from biners is beside the point.

Climboholic
5/09/2012
8:42:21 AM
On 4/09/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Also, why would Australian climbers want or need dry treatment? Do you
>often climb in the rain? I'm almost certain that it's the source of 'belayer's
>black hands'

From my experience dry treated ropes last much longer. I've only owned one non-dry treated rope (Edelrid Python 10mm) and it need replacement in less than a year (caveat: I was climbing on Canberra granite at the time).

The other ropes I've owned have been dry treated (10.2mm Edelweiss, 9.4mm Beal Stinger) and they have lasted 2-3 years with similar use. I know this isn't a statistically significant sample but neither is ODHs "I got black hands when I used a dry rope so dry treatment causes global warming and cancer" theory. (ODH: Have you ever got black or sticky hands from a new dry treated rope?)

I just picked up a non-dry treated 60m BEAL Edlinger 10.2mm for $150 from Torpedo7, so I'll see how that goes.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
5/09/2012
9:46:50 AM
On 4/09/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Some ropes give you black hands, some don't. Now try to follow me here.........the
>ones which give you black hands are dry treated, the ones which don't aren't.
>Therefore, the whole aluminium oxide thing from biners is beside the point.

Should we climb together ODH, I will bring my old steel karabiners for you to use to prove your point!
Heh, heh, heh.

Hmm, if you are right* and modern dry treatments happen to do this (I don't know as I have not bought a new rope lately), then I can see the next bureaucratic step taken being material safety data sheets being handed out with rope purchases! ... & include warnings like;
'don't dare wipe the sweat from your eyes with those black hands'
'don't eat your lunch without washing the black off your hands first'
;-)

(*I still have my doubts, so we agree to disagree then!)

Eduardo Slabofvic
5/09/2012
10:12:20 AM
Wow! Dirty hands! Now there's the best reason yet for not getting a treated rope. Be careful you don't end up with pea under your portaledge, you'll get no sleep at all.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
5/09/2012
10:20:49 AM
On 5/09/2012 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>Wow! Dirty hands! Now there's the best reason yet for not getting a treated
>rope. Be careful you don't end up with pea under your portaledge, you'll
>get no sleep at all.

Hehx3. My next rope will be dry treated like most of those I have bought in the past.
Did you know that baby wipes help keep sanitation in check on a wall, but the last time one of my mates kissed a frog in that environment, instead of turning into a princess it unfortunately turned into a black handed sport climber!
;-)

Pat
5/09/2012
11:30:20 AM
Keeping the topic on skinny ropes, I've only had fat non-dry treated ropes and have a rack of old school non anodised biners - result: Black hands.
bobic
5/09/2012
2:25:39 PM
DO NOT buy a Beal Flyer. I had to return one after a few months with minimal use after it developed a lump in the kern. Then unbelievably the same thing happened to the replacement rope. Swapped it for a Sterling and have had no dramas. First and last time I buy Beal.
EvDog
5/09/2012
3:31:44 PM
I have been rocking a sterling Marathon pro 10.1mm rope for a year now and would highly recommend. 60m, not too expensive, used it for sport trad and occasional top rope, itís nice and light and easy to handle but thick enough to be durable (in max number of falls terms) and fits through all belay devices safely including my original gri gri. Good all round rope, highly recommend it.

Duang Daunk
5/09/2012
3:42:26 PM
On 5/09/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 5/09/2012 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>>Wow! Dirty hands! Now there's the best reason yet for not getting a treated
>>rope. Be careful you don't end up with pea under your portaledge, you'll
>>get no sleep at all.
>
>Hehx3. My next rope will be dry treated like most of those
>I have bought in the past.
>Did you know that baby wipes help keep sanitation in check on a wall,
>but the last time one of my mates kissed a frog in that environment, instead
>of turning into a princess it unfortunately turned into a black handed
>sport climber!
>;-)

What would happen if Ur mate kissed edweirdo?

Eduardo Slabofvic
5/09/2012
3:51:37 PM
On 5/09/2012 Duang Daunk wrote:
>On 5/09/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>On 5/09/2012 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>>>Wow! Dirty hands! Now there's the best reason yet for not getting a
>treated
>>>rope. Be careful you don't end up with pea under your portaledge, you'll
>>>get no sleep at all.
>>
>>Hehx3. My next rope will be dry treated like most of those
>>I have bought in the past.
>>Did you know that baby wipes help keep sanitation in check on a wall,
>>but the last time one of my mates kissed a frog in that environment,
>instead
>>of turning into a princess it unfortunately turned into a black handed
>>sport climber!
>>;-)
>
>What would happen if Ur mate kissed edweirdo?

A lot more than just his hands would turn black

Macciza
5/09/2012
3:51:43 PM
On 4/09/2012 damon wrote:
>Not too sure how thin is too thin these days. Would like to get something
>lightish, 9.8 - 10.2mm.
I can't believe the number of comments on such a mundane issue as rope thickness . . .
Basically 10mm +/- .2mm is pretty standard these days, like 11's used to be . . .
So it's really not that thin, sub 9.5 mm singles are thin, but not too thin, imho . . .
Sounds like you want something round the 10mm mark but there is far more to the whole thing than just thickness, check out the weave, core/mantle ratio, impact force etc....

Duang Daunk
5/09/2012
4:11:20 PM
On 5/09/2012 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>On 5/09/2012 Duang Daunk wrote:
>>On 5/09/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>>On 5/09/2012 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>>>>Wow! Dirty hands! Now there's the best reason yet for not getting a
>>treated
>>>>rope. Be careful you don't end up with pea under your portaledge,
>you'll
>>>>get no sleep at all.
>>>
>>>Hehx3. My next rope will be dry treated like most of those
>>>I have bought in the past.
>>>Did you know that baby wipes help keep sanitation in check on a wall,
>>>but the last time one of my mates kissed a frog in that environment,
>>instead
>>>of turning into a princess it unfortunately turned into a black handed
>>>sport climber!
>>>;-)
>>
>>What would happen if Ur mate kissed edweirdo?
>
>A lot more than just his hands would turn black

U got some disease or something?
One Day Hero
5/09/2012
6:32:58 PM
On 5/09/2012 Climboholic wrote:
>ODH: Have you ever got black or sticky hands from a new
>dry treated rope?
>
Nope, I think it takes a bit of use for the dry treatment to start coming off.

rocksinmyhead
5/09/2012
10:06:26 PM
Canyoned on Dave's 6 or 7mm (probably 7) static once or twice, way back when he was pushing for the lightest possible setup. Main worries were sheath wore easily, leading to stripping. Tried to keep it off the rock as much as possible, but even with a 20cm length of sheath missing it still held ok. Mind you, not much core left then, so was a bit unnerving. It also wore alloy carabiners like crazy, and was very fast with crab and piton.

But for a straight drop out of a tree, 6mm should be okay. Test it out first, especially as the speed/heat could be a problem with a hanging drop, and check if Perlon has a low melting point - I can't remember , but it rings a bell

You could also use Dave's "rule of thumb" for tree anchors - anything bigger than your thumb is okay.:-) Watch out for some of the gums though, they like to drop branches - i think the yellow gums are worst. Rig the abseil round the main trunk if you can. Or stay out of the trees. Happy flying!

stugang
5/09/2012
11:25:27 PM
is there a rope that is skinny at the ends and gets progressively fatter toward the middle?


Climboholic
6/09/2012
4:14:51 PM
On 5/09/2012 stugang wrote:
>is there a rope that is skinny at the ends and gets progressively fatter
>toward the middle?
>
>

This sounds like a set-up...
Mike Bee
6/09/2012
4:27:24 PM
My 9.7mm Bluewater has been kicking on for a few years now with no complaints. I'd buy another one (maybe 9.4 though).

Eduardo Slabofvic
6/09/2012
11:45:57 PM
On 5/09/2012 stugang wrote:
>is there a rope that is skinny at the ends and gets progressively fatter
>toward the middle?
>
>

Yeah. It's the one keeping your dressing gown from flapping open while you shuffle along Victoria Street, saying "Jason?" to passing strangers.

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 58
There are 58 messages in this topic.

 

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