Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

Edelrid: "Ultralight Helmet" (Red) Fits 54 - 60cm Great heavy duty all-rounder. SUPER SPECIAL for a short time only!  $79.00
21% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 1 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 101
Author
Help a chap out - Jumars wanted.
Olbert
3/06/2012
2:29:40 PM
I am planning on going back to Yosemite with my brother in a few months and would like to make the absolute most of my short time whilst I'm there. In order to do this I would like to already be good/well practiced/fit at jumaring. The problem is that I don't own any jumars to practice with and I don't need to get any jumars because my brother already has a pair that we can use once we are there. The other problem is I'm cheap and poor, and the one or two people I know who own jumars have already leant them to other people.

That leaves me jumarless but in need of jumaring practice.

This is where you can help out!

If someone is looking to sell a couple of cheap ones, or someone is willing to lend me some (I'de reimburse them for the postage costs and the cost of a six pack) then that would be amazingly awesome!

Nmonteith
3/06/2012
2:55:12 PM
Where do you live? I just bought a new jumar so have one old one I can lend you. I live in southern Sydney.

Sonic
3/06/2012
3:26:12 PM
Hey Ollie next time you're in the gym I'm sure Dave or I can hook you up
crazyjohn
3/06/2012
4:14:37 PM
Dude. You absolutely need two pairs of Jumars to climb big walls in the valley. There is absolutely no reason why you should not get another pair of jumars in Oz and learn how to jumar.

A. You need two pairs of Jumars and will save maybe $50 by buying them in the US.
B. You need to practice ALOT with jumars because this is the one thing you absolutely have to do (thats if all you do is second) and if done wrong it will totally wreck you. Practice free space rope climbing, slabby rope climbing, hauling, etc.

I saw many many many people stupidly ruining there big wall trips by A. being stupidly cheap with crucial gear and B. not practicing jugging ropes and hauling.

Dont be cheap. Buy a pair of good jumars and learn how to use them. Now.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
3/06/2012
4:39:57 PM
On 3/06/2012 crazyjohn wrote:
>Dude. You absolutely need two pairs of Jumars to climb big walls (snip)

~> To clarify any ambiguity, this means each team member has their own set of (2) jumars.

On 3/06/2012 Olbert wrote:
>I am planning on going back to Yosemite with my brother in a few months
>and would like to make the absolute most of my short time whilst I'm there.
> In order to do this I would like to already be good/well practiced/fit
>at jumaring. The problem is that I don't own any jumars to practice with
>and I don't need to get any jumars because my brother already has a pair
>that we can use once we are there. The other problem is I'm cheap and
>poor, and the one or two people I know who own jumars have already leant
>them to other people.
>
>That leaves me jumarless but in need of jumaring practice.
>
>This is where you can help out!
>
>If someone is looking to sell a couple of cheap ones, or someone is willing
>to lend me some (I'de reimburse them for the postage costs and the cost
>of a six pack) then that would be amazingly awesome!
>

You should consider having jumars as being personal gear, ... like a harness or rock shoes; as once you practise the necessary techniques, you will likely dial in your favourite (read efficient) personal specs (distances) on associated tethers/daisies/etts with them.

Many parties also carry a spare one in case one gets dropped by a team member during haul setups etc, though in my opinion this shouldn't happen if good techniques are used. Having said that, I sometimes find a third jumar useful when crossing knots on free-hanging lines, particularly if the knot is just below a ceiling/roof.

You wouldn't want to borrow mine as they are over 40 years old now(!), ... ~> though I am happy to keep using them myself for a while yet. ;-)

nmonteith
3/06/2012
5:08:21 PM
On 3/06/2012 crazyjohn wrote:
>I saw many many many people stupidly ruining there big wall trips by A.
>being stupidly cheap with crucial gear and B. not practicing jugging ropes
>and hauling.

Reminds me of sitting in the queue below Zodiac and listening to the party ahead of us yelling down instructions to the second on how to attach the jumars to the rope. The guy yelled back up "what's a jumar?". I could have decked them. Apparently they were going for a speed one day ascent - with a 20kg of drum of water in a haul bag (I have no idea how they were planning to drink the water from the drum. - a big straw?). Lucky for us they bailed off after one pitch when the second began crying (he was a grown man). Ahhh Yosemite,

nmonteith
3/06/2012
5:13:45 PM
And I totally agree that BOTH climbers need a set of jumars on a wall!
One Day Hero
3/06/2012
5:25:16 PM
Oli, come to Booroomba for a w/e or three, for the following reasons;

1) Get your feet working on granite
2) Good place to practice moving fast on multipitch routes
3) There's a couple of good aid pitches if you need to learn how to do that
4) I'll lend you my gear
5) I know a few routes which will teach you how to cry (you can get that practiced just like the guys Neil ran into)
Olbert
3/06/2012
6:54:57 PM
On 3/06/2012 crazyjohn wrote:
>Dude. You absolutely need two pairs of Jumars to climb big walls in the
>valley.

Why do both parties need jumars?
Olbert
3/06/2012
7:03:31 PM
On 3/06/2012 Sonic wrote:
>Hey Ollie next time you're in the gym I'm sure Dave or I can hook you up

Thanks but as yet I don't plan on buying some and Dave was a bit hesitant to lend hangdogs.

Superstu
3/06/2012
8:03:26 PM
On 3/06/2012 Olbert wrote:
>Why do both parties need jumars?

Just get 'em.

You and your buddy have fixed lines the night before, and you both gotta jug the line at the start. You don't want to have to lower the jugs to the other bloke.

Any hauling involved? Seconder jugs the fixed line, leader now hauls. You'll need at least one jug with the hauling.
Duncan
3/06/2012
8:47:01 PM
I was going to offer you a deal on mine, but the increase in the value of the AUD means I couldn't get a worthwhile return. Sorry.

Miguel75
3/06/2012
10:18:43 PM
If you look around online you can find sets pretty darn cheap. There's always someone selling a set on Mountainproject.com.

I recall paying about $50 each for the BD n-force ascenders, new. Gearexpress.com is pretty good and has them showing for $59 US. Ask Brendon (the proprietor) to ship them to Aus in the USPS Priority mail international flat rate padded envelope for $16.95...

Or just contact Steve at Rockhardware and see what he'll do for you.

Nmonteith
4/06/2012
7:34:45 AM
You will also need two daisy chains and two etriers (minimum) per person. Some people use 3 or even 4 etriers per person if the aiding is hard.
crazyjohn
4/06/2012
9:20:24 AM
On 3/06/2012 Olbert wrote:
>On 3/06/2012 crazyjohn wrote:
>>Dude. You absolutely need two pairs of Jumars to climb big walls in the
>>valley.
>
>Why do both parties need jumars?
I am not sure what you want to climb but EVERY big wall will require two sets of Jumars for the reasons already given such as jugging fixed lines, hauling etc. What you should do is crack open any big wall book for starters and have a look at what is actually involved in hauling up the necessities of life for 3 or more days on a cliff. Think about the logistics. If you are swapping leads on a 1000 metre cliff this means that you need to jug 500 meters of rope.

Think of this after practicing your first 50 meters of jugging! My wife could not do 3 pullups but she jugged 1000 meters on el cap because of good technique. Thats what you are aiming for. You will want to streamline every process (not just jugging) as much as possible. You will want to get your own set of Jumars and figure out what jugging system works best for you. Figure out the EXACT length of slings, etriers, that work best for you. You will want them setup permanently on your harness. I guarantee you will do things different then your bro and it will be good to have your own setup you dont have to continually reconfigure at each pitch.

Big walling is HARD WORK. Most people fail. Do yourself a favor and avoid the major obvious screw ups. If you can afford to fly over to yosemite, you can afford to buy another set of jugs and spend the time to know how to use them.

gfdonc
4/06/2012
11:30:53 AM
x2.

Pat
4/06/2012
12:23:06 PM
Hey John,

can you suggest the three best books on aiding?

Cheers

sliamese
4/06/2012
12:55:31 PM
Read john longs big walls, allows you to rock up in the valley and solo big aid routes, if your into that sorta thing!

As for jugging, i usually clipped into the 5th pocket on one daisy, and the 7th on the top jug, then chuck an aider on both and your away! Learn how to do the texan method( both aiders on bottom jug) for free-hanging ropes.

If theres two of you it will all be 1:1 hauling, learn how to do counter balance hauling.

Biggest bigwall advice, just look at each individual pitch, dont be overwhelmed. Small steps get you to the top!! Enjoy dude!! :)

sliamese
4/06/2012
12:57:50 PM
Oh, and put a piece of tape in the right pockets on your daisys for ease of use, so u just see them and get the right length first go!
One Day Hero
4/06/2012
1:00:12 PM
On 4/06/2012 Pat wrote:
>
>can you suggest the three best books on aiding?

1) Go out to your backyard tree and teach yourself to jumar and haul
2) Go to your local crack climbing area and teach yourself to aid
3) Go to Buffalo and teach yourself to do Ozy.....then go and do whatever route it is you're dreaming of doing

Aiding ain't rocket surgery!

 Page 1 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 101
There are 101 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints