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Lead Pack for Multi-pitch Climbing


Doug

24/04/2012
4:27:26 PM

Has anyone got any advice about a good pack to wear on long multi-pitch routes? I’ve been using a BD Bullet for a long time. It’s okay but I wouldn’t mind something that’s just a bit bigger and better fitting.
My wife uses a Mountain Tools Stealth, which is good for her because everything she wants to put in it is small because she’s smaller! It’s been a bombproof pack and great to climb with.
I’m interested in their Jet Pack. The downside to Mountain Tools gear is the price, but I'm willing to pay the extra if I know that I'm getting a really good product.
Has anyone got any experience with the Jet Pack, or have any thoughts on something else that is good? I’d prefer it to be robust enough to haul should the need arise.
Cheers and thanks
Doug

Cam McKenzie

24/04/2012
4:37:22 PM

Doug,
I've got a Bullet and a Petzl Bug. I much prefer the bug. It's slightly bigger (can't remember the actual size difference) and carries really well. I carried it up some long routes in the Dolomites (20ish pitches). It held enough gear to survive a rather cold bivy in the Marmolada lift station. Can definitely recommend it.

The only downside is that it zips to close rather than having clips, meaning that you can't jam a rope in the top. It does rope carrying straps underneath it which are ok, but loosen. They would be better if they were clips.


Doug

24/04/2012
5:45:08 PM

Thanks for the feedback, Cam. I've been reading about the Bug in outdoorgearlab and it sounded pretty good. One reviewer (http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Daypack-Reviews/Petzl-Bug#reviews) thought the editor's evaluation was a bit nitpicking and like you, he thinks more highly of it than the Bullet.
Cheers
Doug


pezz

24/04/2012
5:54:21 PM

I have the bug, and find it to be good. But i can only compair it to a old camel pack i previously used.
Would i buy it again? Yurp

kimbyl

24/04/2012
6:34:27 PM

I have been looking at a Blue Ice Warthog after reading some good reviews. Seems well thought out, and about the right size, never seen one in the flesh though.

http://www.blueice.com/en/products/warthog-26l

Mike Bee

24/04/2012
8:07:52 PM

I have got a bug too, have used it for climbing and as my everyday backpack for 4years. Still looks like new - definately recommended.

phillipivan

24/04/2012
8:16:09 PM

Doug,

Some other options to consider might be the Cold Cold World Ozone, or the CiloGear 20L Hauly. I have a CiloGear 30L sack and it carries excellently, but the fabrics on that bag wouldn't stand up to much hauling.

Best.
Phillipivan


IdratherbeclimbingM9

24/04/2012
8:29:53 PM

On 24/04/2012 Doug wrote:
>bombproof (snip)
>I’d prefer it to be robust enough to haul should the need arise.

Hard to go past one of these...

SL212

24/04/2012
8:46:44 PM

I don't know many people would really love to lead climb wearing that though Mr M9.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

24/04/2012
9:00:59 PM

On 24/04/2012 SL212 wrote:
>I don't know many people would really love to lead climb wearing that though Mr M9.

Are you related to MrsM10, SL212? Heh, heh, heh.
(Nah, just stirring...)

Seriously, I hear what you are saying, and acknowledge it.
Most people don't climb with a pack, and of those that do, they only do it occasionally.
For the minor % who do it regularly, and would prefer to haul it when possible rather than foist it onto the second to climb with, then it more than meets the need.
It is actually half comfortable due its smaller size (compared to its larger brothers), and my only negative for it, is for 100% bulletproofness I reckon it could use a vinyl flap that covers the extendable throat for multipitch wet weather (or canyoning), routes!!

In my opinion packs get knocked around in transit far more than when they are worn. My experience with this style of pack confirms they handle more abuse in transit than any other types I have used.

Oh, and as an aside, I do NOT have any shares in, or affiliation with, BD!


wallwombat

24/04/2012
9:26:55 PM

That Blue Ice Warthog looks nice but at 26 liters I think it is a bit big for a lead pack. It would make a great pack for the second to carry though.


Doug

24/04/2012
10:36:38 PM

Thanks for all the input! Some interesting ideas. Re "tough enough to haul if necessary", it would only be a very rare pitch so the weight factor is more important than the durability. I guess I was overstating when I said "bombproof". It really just needs to be able to withstand the occasional bit of scuffing and dragging.
Also, volume is important. I'm not very big - and certainly not as strong as I once was! Some of these exotic suggestions like the Warthog, Ozone and Worksack sound interesting, but maybe a bit bigger than what I really want. So far the Bug sounds best. Has no-one seen a Jet Pack in the flesh? Whether it would be worth the significant extra price tag is a moot point at this stage, but the Stealth is a great pack, just too small ...

25/04/2012
6:29:37 PM

I remember Warwick Baird used to boulder at Lindfield wearing a lead weight belt, but wearing a pack made of lead on an actual climb seems a bit OTT.


Paulie

26/04/2012
8:03:57 AM

I used to do long alpine routes (summer & winter) with my Arcteryx RT35 (which is great) but was en-light-ened (thanks Cheesehead) and now use a Grivel Manu (not that I do much of that stuff these days), it's brilliant but not sure where you'd get one (or similar) here in Oz?
http://www.backcountry.com/grivel-manu-backpack

Also, any packs made by Mountain Technology (handmade in Glencoe, Scotland) are amazing, my 60ltr pack I used to use for multiday routes and ski touring; bloody hard to find outside of Scotland though! http://www.abc-of-iceclimbing.com/brands/mountain-technology/


Paulie

26/04/2012
8:15:21 AM

On 24/04/2012 kimbyl wrote:
>I have been looking at a Blue Ice Warthog after reading some good reviews.
>Seems well thought out, and about the right size, never seen one in the
>flesh though.
>
>http://www.blueice.com/en/products/warthog-26l

Nice looking pack, but needs gear loops IMO


Andrew_M

26/04/2012
10:03:51 AM

Just to be contrary, do you really need a bigger pack? The options you're talking about are about 25-30L or so - that's starting to head into planned bivy territory. Is that what you want it for? If you don't want to cut back on the "stuff" that you take, can you go lighter/more packable shell/insulation etc. Just a thought...


Robb

26/04/2012
12:10:36 PM

Petzl bug is awesome. Right size. not too big . not too small. Tough too


Doug

26/04/2012
2:47:39 PM

On 26/04/2012 Andrew_M wrote:
>Just to be contrary, do you really need a bigger pack? The options you're
>talking about are about 25-30L or so - that's starting to head into planned
>bivy territory. Is that what you want it for? Just a thought...

... and it's a good thought. I'm really looking for something that's just a tad bigger so it's not such a pain getting my approach shoes, a very small rain jacket, light fleece, water and a few muesli bars in. According to specs, the Bullet is 16 litres (and it doesn't really carry very well when it is chockablock) whereas the Bug is 18, so it is starting to look like the best option flagged so far.

widewetandslippery

26/04/2012
2:57:58 PM

I bought a sea to summit pack a while back that rols into its own little pocket. Weighs bugger all. Have not used it in climbing anger but have canyoned with it. Could hold personal gear, harness etc and a rope strapped outside. Not bullet proof but $27 approx pretty good value.

Would hold a water bottle, shoes and a raincoat easily and when out of use would fit in a cargo pant pocket.

One Day Hero

15/06/2012
4:40:29 PM

Just hang your sneakers off your harness, then use a bullet pack. Far better than having a big pack full of crap.

There are 32 messages in this topic.