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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Ripped daisy bartack

One Day Hero

17/04/2012
2:16:47 PM

On 17/04/2012 Davidn wrote:
>
>As to who I really am... None of you have ever met me in any case!

I met you
>
>I'm probably an old, female, crocheting fanatic that hangs out on rock
>climbing sites having verbals with skinny magoo look-alikes.

No, he's a geeky public service type, and I met him while he was being guided round booroomba on a beginners w/e. Hence, anything he says about; trad climbing/big walling/gear/anything other than bouldering is hearsay, since he doesn't do any of that stuff and never has done.


Hendo

17/04/2012
2:42:25 PM

On 17/04/2012 mikllaw wrote:
>If you are always clipped into the same loop it could be simple wear. The
>stitching isn't in shear like a normal sling, but is being ripped open
>so most of the load is on the first line of stitching. I wonder if the
>stitching was able to be worn by the biner?

This comment is probably more along the lines of the reason for the failure. I haven't bothered to read through everyone's posts in detail, but it seems there have been various calculations of net forces, neglecting the fact that other (different) internal stresses (forces) are important and may be significantly high enough to cause failure. As Mikl said there would be come kind of stress concentration on the first line of stitching (continually applied to new stitches as the stitching progressively fails).

The rating of 3kN is a net force on the daisy (I would assume), but the internal stresses (forces) will vary with setup (biner radius, sharp edges, twisting etc). How much variation, I'm not sure (forces are often hard to calculate and work with) but loads closeish to 3kN could have different outcomes dependent on how it is applied. It is possible the 3kN rating may be a bit deceiving.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

17/04/2012
2:43:55 PM

On 17/04/2012 mikllaw wrote:
>They-Aren't-Climbing-Gear!!
>Of course they will break under modest loads. Shops shouldn't sell them,
>the 2 people in Oz who are likely to need them should buy them on-line.
>
>It always amazes me when fairly sensible people have a daisy chain and
>quite often ~~clip into~~ cross-clip (across), 2 loops.

Thereyagomikl Fixedthatforyaforclarificationssake! ... even though I knew what you meant.
;-)
By the way, where are you going to get yours if I buy the last on-line one?
_{Heh, heh, heh}


Miguel75

17/04/2012
2:49:45 PM

On 17/04/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>(As an aside, meant in the context of thank goodness we are not casting
>flowers in M75's direction as a result of a tragic clip across two pockets scenario…)

Thanks M9, im glad too! Luckily I know not to clip through two pockets.

P.S. my favorite flowers are Gerberers;)

On 17/04/2012 mikllaw wrote:
>....I wonder if the stitching was able to be worn by the

It was a new daisy out for its second use.

>If you are doing a fall/energy/resultant load calc you can do it this
>way:-
>energy = mgh (mass x gravity x height fallen)
> E = 110 x 9.8 x 0.3 = 323 J
>
>then work out what the distance (d) that energy was spread over (for short
>fallls include climber slump in their harness, for a short daisy and fat
>climber I'd guess that at 0.1m)
>
>The averged force (there could be peaks in there also) = E/d = 3234 N
>= 3.2 kN

Thanks Mike, that seems easier to understand... And shows I'll stick with the PAS on the upper ascender, for ascending.

On 17/04/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>#4 Miguel- I've discovered what you you did wrong. You sold your adjustable
>daisys to me for a song. There's no pockets ripping out while I'm jugging,
>sucka!

The funny thing; as I watched the stitching unravel I thought, 'Hmm, my old adjustable daisies never did this.' followed by, 'I hope ODH gets to experience something fun like this', followed by, 'freak nasty, I hope the dudes on Bloodline can't hear my sobs!?'

Luckily I'm fully redundant and tied back up knots too...


ratherbeclimbinV9

17/04/2012
2:52:41 PM

Sorry guys just got busy but keep it up, I love the nerd rage stuff.

73 kn! No 43, but it was the force on the stitching, with the candlestick in the drawing room!


Miguel75

17/04/2012
2:56:47 PM

On 17/04/2012 Davidn wrote:
>...73 kn! No 43, but it was the force on the stitching, with the candlestick
>in the drawing room!

Classic!

One Day Hero

17/04/2012
3:23:24 PM

No, not classic, stupid! Stop trying to save him from total humiliation Miguel, your empathy is admirable but misplaced.

Look, Oli does grumpy physics, that's his shtick. You get that, don't you, dave? It's funny because he understands physics and sorts out people's numpty errors in a comical and grumpy fashion.

It's tempting to believe that your shtick is this bumbling boulderer character who actually believes that he's a real climber, and actually thinks that he's contributing meaningful and funny content..........which would require that in real life you were something different. Now, that would be a plausible possibility if it wasn't for one glaring clue. Your woody gives it away!


ratherbeclimbinV9

17/04/2012
3:33:13 PM

Damo... Actually, can I mail this one in and you do both sides for a while?


Miguel75

17/04/2012
3:39:32 PM

There's an awful lot of activity here today. Is everyone else on annual leave too?

And I'm no respector of people; If you say something that makes me giggle, I'm happy.

Olbert

17/04/2012
4:27:51 PM

On 17/04/2012 Miguel75 wrote:
>There's an awful lot of activity here today. Is everyone else on annual
>leave too?

No I'm just getting the government to pay me for running my own small business - it's my version of the climbing pension.

>And I'm no respector of people; If you say something that makes me giggle,
>I'm happy.


salty crag

17/04/2012
5:47:01 PM

On 17/04/2012 Miguel75 wrote:
>There's an awful lot of activity here today. Is everyone else on annual
>leave too?

>And I'm no respector of people; If you say something that makes me giggle,
>I'm happy.

Some have way to much time on their hands... I blame you for starting this M75

dalai

17/04/2012
8:42:47 PM

On 17/04/2012 salty crag wrote:
>Some have way to much time on their hands... I blame you for starting
>this M75

And the fact that no one has commented that you were jugging Boogie... ???


Climbau

17/04/2012
8:54:58 PM

On 17/04/2012 dalai wrote:
>And the fact that no one has commented that you were jugging Boogie...
>???

he was doing the aid variant otherwise known as Jug Til Ya Poop. Apparently graded M2 on the sphincter scale. :)


Miguel75

17/04/2012
10:03:45 PM

On 17/04/2012 Climbau wrote:
>On 17/04/2012 dalai wrote:
>>And the fact that no one has commented that you were jugging Boogie...
>>???
>
>he was doing the aid variant otherwise known as Jug Til Ya Poop. Apparently
>graded M2 on the sphincter scale. :)

Hey, hey, hey, I'm an equal opportunity jugger. I was needing some overhanging jug action and boogie has some groove, anchors and views. It's a complete package. So much so, I may come back in winter for some dry tooling action;)

Oh no I didn't...

Fish Boy

18/04/2012
2:59:02 AM

On 17/04/2012 Ben_E wrote:
>That's.... odd.
>
>I've ripped a daisy on an aid fall

That's.....odd.

Do your shorten your daisy when you're leading?

There are 55 messages in this topic.