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Etiquette on dropped gear

One Day Hero

9-Nov-2011
10:58:09 PM

I used to trust all my biners 100%. Then I dropped a few and didn't quite trust them anymore.

The solution was simple, I just closed my eyes and shuffled them back into the rack, now I trust everything about 95%.


rodw

10-Nov-2011
12:12:52 AM

On 9/11/2011 davidn wrote:
>Out of curiousity, if a core shot happens to a rope when you fall on it
>because it's either loaded over an edge or you just fell on it way too
>often, do you offer to replace it?

Its happened to me on a new rope I'd never used, rope got caught on biner on insignificant fall on mate who were using the rope first time, sheath torn fully exposing the core..... mammut wouldn't replace it so don't see why my mates should ...shit happens.


wallwombat

10-Nov-2011
2:34:37 AM

On 9/11/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>I used to trust all my biners 100%. Then I dropped a few and didn't quite
>trust them anymore.
>
>The solution was simple, I just closed my eyes and shuffled them back
>into the rack, now I trust everything about 95%.

I learned to climb from two books - "The Tao of Pooh" and Royal Robbins's "Basic Rock Climbing".

As a consequence, I trust all my gear and big words bother me.

stonetroll

10-Nov-2011
9:07:41 AM

On 9/11/2011 Jahmz wrote:
>I recently had a friend drop a quickdraw while cleaning a climb after me.
>I understand, it happens. but where do we stand on replacement gear, for
>me the rule has always been you drop it you replace it, but what if that
>piece is no longer made, or the other person disagrees?

I would consider dropped gear as a trivial matter, not worth making rules about.

The memorys, the comradery, the nourishment in my soul, and the feeling of beeing in the moment that i get with each and every person i've ever climbed with, is worth a 1,000 racks 10,000 racks a 1,000,000,000,000 racks . It's priceless.

Watching the sun drop behind the Wolgan from the top of The Coke Ovens after a succesful onsight, seeing the sun come up over the horizon of The Pacific Ocean as i drop a rap line down the sea cliffs of Point Perp' , feeling my hands shredded after a big day at Buffalo are worth a far lot more than $15 for a caribiner.

I have a good job and a good rack and as far as i'm concerned, if some one i'm climbing with drops gear i accept that as collateral damage and wouldn't expect any reimbursement.

I don't really put a dollar value on my climbing adventures. It's more about the experience.


BlankSlab

10-Nov-2011
9:43:10 AM

On 10/11/2011 stonetroll wrote:
>
>Watching the sun drop behind the Wolgan from the top of The Coke Ovens
>after a succesful onsight, seeing the sun come up over the horizon of The
>Pacific Ocean as i drop a rap line down the sea cliffs of Point Perp' ,
>feeling my hands shredded after a big day at Buffalo are worth a far lot
>more than $15 for a caribiner.
>
Very well said.
I would be more then happy to put up the money if it ment keeping a good realtionship with a climbing buddy. You put your life in their hands and they do the same so is a little bit of gear worth it?

earwig

10-Nov-2011
10:04:32 AM

On 9/11/2011 davidn wrote:
>Here's an idea/game.
>
>Let's all stand 5 metres in front of a rock face and throw a biner as
>hard as we can against the rock - you get as many attempts as you like.
> First one to damage the biner enough to get the biner to break at a statistically
>significant amount lower than the expected Kn can win a free chockstone
>poster.

Win a free chockstone poster! So, who did you have in mind as the prize?

I remember dropping a piece of gear belongng to my climbing partner. It fell about a 30cm onto rock and, as he watched me scrambling and failing to grab it, bounced its way to a crack and disappeared deep into the bowels of Arapiles never to be seen again. Following the accepted etiquette between us, I offered to replace the piece and he mumbled not to bother but that it was my shout at the pub that night.

widewetandslippery

10-Nov-2011
11:15:43 AM

Whats the etiquette when you drop the lid for the lone water bottle at the beginning of the day? Skull a half each or does the non dropper get it all or does the non dropper get an equal swig plus interest?


IdratherbeclimbingM9

10-Nov-2011
11:26:21 AM

On 10/11/2011 davidn wrote:
>Simey, obviously ! A treat suitable for both sexes.

That is a scary thought.
~> Halloween has already finished this year dn!

On 10/11/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Whats the etiquette when you drop the lid for the lone water bottle at
>the beginning of the day? Skull a half each or does the non dropper get
>it all or does the non dropper get an equal swig plus interest?

How long ago? Does compound interest apply? good thing it wasn't the beer supply eh? Heh, heh, heh.

I have not actually come across a 'lone water bottle' incident, so am curious as to how you did actually deal with that circumstance.

I carry a spare lid gaffer taped to my bottles* for just such 'emergency' on multipitch.

(*One for drink, and also P-bottle has its own, on multidayers...).

Oh, & I would go 50/50 on the water.
... In the Wingello tradition of sharing brown snakes, (where my partner gets the first 50); ~> If I was with you, & you had dropped the lid, I'd take the first 50 swigs! Heh^{x3 ;-)}


IdratherbeclimbingM9

10-Nov-2011
11:27:49 AM

On subject of multidayers and dropped gear...

On 10/11/2011 stonetroll wrote:
>I don't really put a dollar value on my climbing adventures. It's more about the experience.

This rings a loud bell with me, however I never thought it could be taken in a negative context until I had an embarrassing moment one time on a climb.

It was an intentional multidayer experience we were after, and my partner at the time accidentally managed to drop a brand new large size cam when getting the excess rack out of a haulbag at a high hanging belay. It was their own piece of gear.
We had newly teamed up to do this climb, and in hindsight I guess my partner felt that I had committed them pretty heavily into the adventure by our simply arriving at that point.

Soon after when reflecting on the dropped gear event, … as we were both a bit disheartened by it; I made an offhand comment at the time, "How much would you be prepared to pay, for this experience?", and almost immediately regretted the statement; as from the shocked look in my partners eyes, I realised they had misconstrued my comment as tantamount to being 'extortion'!
I was quick to add, "Many people would consider the price of a new cam being cheap payment for the learning experience, given the context of the whole adventure", and was relieved to find that they were now on my wavelength, of regrettable as it was, the bigger context was the adventure/experience, regardless of the price of gear involved.

It was a great adventure.
We later recovered the cam, but it was buggered.
It was a small price to pay for lifetime memories / camaraderie.

PS. I still marvel at how easily ones words can sometimes be taken out of context in real life, let alone vide the internet medium!


Eduardo Slabofvic

10-Nov-2011
11:41:52 AM

On 10/11/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Whats the etiquette when you drop the lid for the lone water bottle at
>the beginning of the day? Skull a half each or does the non dropper get
>it all or does the non dropper get an equal swig plus interest?

Forgive me wibblywobblyandwet for I have sinned. I dropped the cigarette lighter from pitch 8 of Snake Dike on Half Dome. Fun gradually decreased after that, but at least I didn't drop any "gear".


IdratherbeclimbingM9

10-Nov-2011
12:26:45 PM

On 10/11/2011 Eduardo Slabofvic. (a Nati local), wrote:
>Forgive me wibblywobblyandwet for I have sinned. I dropped the cigarette
>lighter from pitch 8 of Snake Dike on Half Dome. Fun gradually decreased
>after that, but at least I didn't drop any "gear".

It wasn't the one described here, by any chance was it?


E. Wells

10-Nov-2011
3:42:17 PM

What good is the gear without something to light it up with?


Eduardo Slabofvic

10-Nov-2011
4:22:24 PM

Tell me about it

widewetandslippery

10-Nov-2011
4:47:04 PM

Marc twighjts extreme alpnism stresses the importanmce of a spare lighjter

Olbert

10-Nov-2011
5:56:57 PM

On 10/11/2011 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>On 10/11/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>Whats the etiquette when you drop the lid for the lone water bottle at
>>the beginning of the day? Skull a half each or does the non dropper get
>>it all or does the non dropper get an equal swig plus interest?
>
>Forgive me wibblywobblyandwet for I have sinned. I dropped the cigarette
>lighter from pitch 8 of Snake Dike on Half Dome. Fun gradually decreased
>after that, but at least I didn't drop any "gear".

Ooooo - that's harsh. You have only finished about a third of the hiking up till that point.


Doug

11-Nov-2011
9:43:40 AM

On 9/11/2011 Ben_E wrote:

>But what about stuck gear? Is it deemed to be the fault of the leader
>for making hateful difficult-to-clean placements (I'm notorious for slamming
>those nuts in tight when I get stressed), or the fault of the follower
>for being a hopeless gumby who couldn't wiggle or just plain force the
>gear out?

I reckon if the second can't get it out, he gives the leader the option to rap back down and try retrieving it. If she fails (or declines), she pays. They might come to a different arrangement if they're on a long multi pitch and they want to get it done with minimal mucking about. In that case some sort of cost-sharing arrangement is one way to solve the problem.


Macciza

11-Nov-2011
10:04:53 AM

How about if the second can't get out, you can't take in slack . . .
"Sorry, it's stuck . . ."


ado_m

11-Nov-2011
10:37:56 AM

If a nut drops at summer day valley from the harness of a clueless scout and no one hears it, and I pick it up and put it on my rack, did the nut really fall?

There are 58 messages in this topic.