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Etiquette on dropped gear


rodw

9-Nov-2011
1:38:01 PM

On 9/11/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Etiquette?
>~> Respect for partner (and gear), is often a basis for long term climbing
>partnerships, and in my opinion this is a thing to be valued...

Yeah its a choice who you climb with , but if I had chosen a climbing partner that whinged about me dropping something, he wouldn't be my climbing partner anymore.....

...you start this thing about dropping gear, who would pay for....

1/ Wear on car tires to get to crag? What about engine wear etc

2/ Whats the cost of a fall on the rope and is it calculated depending on the fall factor?

Yeah its pedantic to mention those cost but dropping shit is part of climbing too ....if you cant deal with ya gear coping abuse put it back behind the glass window in the store ya bought it from and find a new sport. It was an accident, part of the sport deal with it and move on.

I've climbed with person (admittedly only the once) who wouldn't let me use his rope to lead as it was new and didn't want to wear it out...despite the fact he just climbed 4 routes I had bolted which together probably cost more to equip than his precious rope.....being a tosser about wear and tear is a good way to loose climbing partner IMHO...next you know there will be a question....At the end of a days climb is it okay to ask for 20c from my partner when its my shout because I'm drinking light beer and my climbing partner is drinking heavies?

Btw WW&S you own me 40 cents next time we finish the day at the pub:) ...speaking of which you up for this Sunday?..send me an email to confirm.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

9-Nov-2011
2:19:11 PM

On 9/11/2011 rodw wrote:
>...you start this thing about dropping gear, who would pay for....
>(snip)
>Btw WW&S you own me 40 cents next time we finish the day at the pub:)

Who payed for this beer for WW&S, when he was young? ... and what does payback amount to now, at compound interest rates?


Jahmz

9-Nov-2011
3:20:29 PM

Ok, well thats a bit excessive, This isnt about money, heck If i was a tight arse this wouldn't be the sport for me in the first place. To me its about respecting the gear you trust your life with. learning to handle gear carefully is part of climbing. I wouldn't want to climb with someone that says after I drop gear from heights "dont worry about it I drop gear all the time". but I also wouldn't force someone to buy me new gear, the offer is a just a nice gesture.


MrsM10iswhereitsat.

9-Nov-2011
3:53:06 PM

Dropped gear often becomes booty for others, especially if the dropper of it now considers it worthless? Derek my M10 love and I would happily use it for our next aid climb, if you no longer want it Mr Jahmz.


ChuckNorris

9-Nov-2011
4:13:46 PM

someone I used to climb with was particularly anal about dropped gear, so I began to get into the habit of chucking (my) draws to the ground while I cleaned a route.

Boy did it wind him up - kinda like preinternet trolling.

BTW - anyone wanna buy some draws?


Eduardo Slabofvic

9-Nov-2011
4:31:11 PM

All this talk of scary sport climbing and gear raining down from above makes me wonder what planet I've been climbing on


rodw

9-Nov-2011
4:52:38 PM

On 9/11/2011 Jahmz wrote:
>Ok, well thats a bit excessive, This isnt about money, heck If i was a
>tight arse this wouldn't be the sport for me in the first place. To me
>its about respecting the gear you trust your life with. learning to handle
>gear carefully is part of climbing. I wouldn't want to climb with someone
>that says after I drop gear from heights "dont worry about it I drop gear
>all the time". but I also wouldn't force someone to buy me new gear, the
>offer is a just a nice gesture.

So is the offer to clean the route for you....but if you think a possible dropped draw is to high a price to pay........do it yourself.


phillipivan

9-Nov-2011
4:58:52 PM

I frequently concern myself with thoughts of micro-fractures in the skulls of people I happen to be talking to. What if all the juice comes out?

tariadamar

9-Nov-2011
5:14:38 PM

jahmz first off stop dropping you engineering jargon around here. just ask yourself how often do you climb with this person and also how much money do they put in. say into gear or fuel and ask your self if they owe you a draw anyway. i would also be saying to replace the nut.

patto

9-Nov-2011
5:29:30 PM

The evidence of dropped gear causing micro fractures and reduced strength is about as strong as the evidence of extraterrestrials visiting earth.

Biners simply aren't heavy enough to impact with enough force to cause the problems that are claimed.

widewetandslippery

9-Nov-2011
5:35:53 PM

I was once asked to replace an iritrivable cam because I bailed on and it was soft. It was partners piece and it fitted and I was off route bpottling out Fair call. Rodw i remember when hill had a partner called petrol money who had a girlfriend called loose change. Rodk I had white blond hair, wore blue and drank exclusively the dreggs of long necks. They supposedly calmed me down.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

9-Nov-2011
5:57:52 PM

On 9/11/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>I had white blond hair, wore blue and drank exclusively the dreggs of long necks. They supposedly calmed me down.

Yeah, yeah;... & after the olds finished messing with ya head by dressing you in pink (definitely pretty), [Off point, but did you know WM once owned a pink rope?]; ... they helped you out by giving you a trolley when you were a toddler...

Heh^x3


Doug

9-Nov-2011
6:20:56 PM

On 9/11/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

>I gather that krabs are no longer made with that technique these days,
>so the point is mute.
>
Hiya Rod. I think you mean "moot"; the point doesn't seem to be mute, as there is a lot of comment on it. ;- )
For some oldsters like me it is good news to find out that dropping 'biners and such that are made using modern methods is not as big a problem as it once was.
Cheers
Doug


IdratherbeclimbingM9

9-Nov-2011
6:33:07 PM

On 9/11/2011 Doug Bruce wrote:
>On 9/11/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>
>>I gather that krabs are no longer made with that technique these days,
>>so the point is mute.
>>
>Hiya Rod. I think you mean "moot"; the point doesn't seem to be mute,
>as there is a lot of comment on it. ;- )
>For some oldsters like me it is good news to find out that dropping 'biners
>and such that are made using modern methods is not as big a problem as
>it once was.
>Cheers
>Doug

My bad.
You are right. There is not only comment, but it seems also debate* still! ...
(*though it should be 'mute', heh, heh, heh).

As an aside, I once saw a Stubai promotional film (long ago, read back in the '60's), that showed their manufacturing process for steel karabiners, and the issue of dropped gear was a hot topic even then...
After seeing that footage, I no longer worried about steel krabs after seeing a front end loader style of tractor picking them up by the front bucket-full, off a factory floor, transporting them to another area, and then dumping them in a pile on a concrete floor, ready for distribution for sale!


ChuckNorris

9-Nov-2011
6:51:56 PM

50cm would be funnier. Ouch!


Ben_E

9-Nov-2011
7:27:40 PM

Etiquette rather than hard and fast rule, but I think if you drop something of your climbing partners any significant distance, you at least offer to buy then a new one or offer like for like from your own rack, whether it is lost or not. If they're still happy climbing on the dropped gear, presumably they'll decline.

If gear is lost due to having to leave it behind to bail (happened to me twice, both times due to related injuries), split the loss 50/50.

But what about stuck gear? Is it deemed to be the fault of the leader for making hateful difficult-to-clean placements (I'm notorious for slamming those nuts in tight when I get stressed), or the fault of the follower for being a hopeless gumby who couldn't wiggle or just plain force the gear out?


E. Wells

9-Nov-2011
7:32:31 PM

I got some gear off some dude in a roadhouse who got it off some other dude, and amongst it was an old clog non locking biner, a really big one. One friday afternoon I decided to take my corrola hatchback across the wolgan river, got half way. Ran awf and found some dude with a 4wd and snatch thingo. Used old clog biner. He really floored it. Now when ever I get to a crux clip I use it to help me not fall awf. Another usefull post about myself.


Macciza

9-Nov-2011
7:36:45 PM

Etiquette on dropped gear ? - Don't worry unless it's completely lost - and even then it doesn't matter, shit happens -deal with it, you could have dropped it . . .
Swap draws if you are really worried but not new for old, come on . . .

Half my stuff has been dropped at some point or another,
I once got about 10 draws which had been on some route at diamond for a month that another climber removed and dropped before placing new ones,

And I think 1 in a million is better that 3sigma rating . . .


kuu

9-Nov-2011
7:58:42 PM

On 9/11/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>
>... they helped you out by giving you a trolley when you were a
>toddler...
>
>

>
>Heh^x3
>
Geez Dave, you were a cute little guy, who'd have thought?

But what went wrong, when did you change?


salty crag

9-Nov-2011
9:35:32 PM

Shits me when the newbie partner drops the belay device and I have to give em mine and descend on the munter.
I never feel comfy with gear thats taken a significant fall regardless of how it looks after inspection.
Slightly off topic I have bought and climbed on gear that has had a manufacturer recall due to faults, shite! I trusted that gear.

There are 58 messages in this topic.