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Synthetic insulated jacket (belay parka)

pecheur

14-Apr-2011
12:35:14 PM

On 14/04/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>your choice of colour is for the wrong reasons but it is sensible.
>
>Black clothing gets hot. Overheating sucks.
>
>A lighter colour will not effect performance in bad or night conditions.

What's the problem with a black (synth) downie, in fact black is one of the best colours if getting lost isn't really a problem.

If there's enough radiant heat to overheat in a black downie, you shouldn't be wearing a downie.

In fact if you're wearing a downie you want as much heat as possible and as black absorbs the most radiant heat it should definitely be considered.

Therefore black is fine. QED

PS Radiant heat transfer is the least efficient form of heat transfer anyway so in conditions that you'd consider a synth belay jacket colour will make sweet FA difference, buy whichever colour you like.


StuckNut

14-Apr-2011
1:58:56 PM

Not too concerned with any heat absorption effects of the color (unless I'm wearing it belaying at the gym - the sodium lights may cause me to get too hot!?)

The visibility issue in crap weather is more relevant I think.

maxdacat

14-Apr-2011
2:00:43 PM

Also Paddy's has the new version of the Mtn Hardwear Compressor which does have a hood. I have the old one and while it is at the heavy end (800g), has held up well over the years and is mega warm.

brendan

14-Apr-2011
2:37:49 PM

Where did you find the rab jacket under $200?

Damien Gildea

14-Apr-2011
2:55:46 PM

There was always a hooded and non-hooded Compressor. In the US they usually refer to the former as a parka, the latter as a jacket. Good to remember when shopping sight-unseen. Parkas are often discounted late in the season, or out of season, as the hood means they're not as popular for street (or gym?) wear.

I bought my gf a women's Compressor parka (c.US$130) and she loves it. One of the good things about these types of synth parkas is that if it's really cold they are not too bulky to actually climb in, unlike a lot of down parkas. Good for descending alpine routes or cold starts, where once you warm up after moving you just take it off, leaving your shell as the outer etc. And if you rip it you don't lose the insulation.

Unless you're fat bar stud, I would recommend the MontBell Thermawrap parkas. I've used a couple now in Antarctica and they're very warm for their light weight and a nice simple and trim design. Good price too at: http://www.iclimb.co.nz/ausinsulation.htm

Mike Bee

14-Apr-2011
4:23:01 PM

I have a MHW Compressor with a hood. Thats awesome, but isn't warm enough for anything beyond an Aussie winter. I've used it in the Aussie Alps though, and it's always been warm enough (just).

One I forgot to mention is the new Mont Montet Jacket, $329 RRP, 166gsm PL Sport filling, and the same Pertex Endurance outer as the Rab Belay jacket. Not sure who is stocking these yet (or if they're even in the country yet), but they're slated for this season, and they seem to have the normal quality Mont finish and design. Worth keeping an eye out for.

maxdacat

14-Apr-2011
4:52:50 PM

I've just used mine for climbing in Chamonix in January and the Haute Route in March. It was fine for Jan in -10, but probably too warm for a very sunny HR.

Mike Bee

15-Apr-2011
12:11:14 AM

On 14/04/2011 maxdacat wrote:
>I've just used mine for climbing in Chamonix in January and the Haute Route
>in March. It was fine for Jan in -10, but probably too warm for a very
>sunny HR.

If the old one was 800g, then they might have decreased the amount of filling a lot. Mine was quoted at about 530g or so when I bought it. I certainly wouldn't be keen to take my Compressor to -10 without more layers of thermals than I normally use. 800g is roughly the same as my Rab Belay jacket, and that thing is plenty warm at -10, so the amount of filling might be more comparable with that.


StuckNut

16-Apr-2011
4:48:39 PM

Ok, could not find a single light weight synthetic jacket in any of gear stores I visited today (Bogong, ME, Paddy Palin, Pinnacle, Snowgum, etc.) A few bulkier ski style jackets, a couple of old stock odd sized things and plenty of down, but nothing useful.

Does anyone have any experience with the Montbell Flatiron?

http://www.iclimb.co.nz/ausinsulation.htm

Looks quite good on paper(Exceloft body 120 g/m2, sleeve 80 g/m2) but cant seam to find much as far as first hand experiences. Its either that or the RAB Generator. The Flatiron has slightly more fill so should be a bit lighter, I'm also wondering how helmet compatible the hood is?

PDRM

16-Apr-2011
5:24:37 PM

One on sale at Wilderness Sports at Box Hill.

P

tinman

16-Apr-2011
6:36:08 PM

I have the mont bell eldo. Very light and not bulky.
worn it down to about 0-5 degrees at the snow. no hood though and no tightening thing around the waist.
http://www.campsaver.com/eldo-jacket-men-s

Damien Gildea

16-Apr-2011
6:55:36 PM

On 16/04/2011 Jase wrote:

>Does anyone have any experience with the Montbell Flatiron?

I tried one on in the MB shop in Boulder a few years back. Having used and liked the Thermawrap parka so much I was a bit disappointed - a wider, boxier fit, with a matte outer that might be less showerproof. Not sure about the helmetness of the hood, but I don't remember it being particularly large.

I'd prefer the Generator out of the two, so long as it fits you OK. The Rab 'trim' fit can be a bit narrow across the back and shoulders.


StuckNut

17-Apr-2011
8:24:52 PM

On 14/04/2011 brendan wrote:
>Where did you find the rab jacket under $200?

I ended up ordering the Generator Alpine from here:

http://www.prolitegear.com/rab-generator-alpine-jacket.html

I think I got the last medium though.

Cam McKenzie

18-Apr-2011
8:10:03 AM

Just got the last Large Patagonia DAS Parka from the same place


StuckNut

20-Apr-2011
9:37:40 AM

Well I spoke too soon! Just heard back form Prolite and and it looks like they do not have any medium Generators in stock even though the website said they did and accepted my order. So I might give the Montbell Flatiron a try.

Damien Gildea

20-Apr-2011
11:17:26 AM

Compressor is on sale US$149 at:
http://www.e-omc.com/catalog/products/4580/Mountain-Hardwear-Hooded-Compressor-Jacket-Mens.html

e-Omc are good, I've bought a lot from them.

Mr Poo

8-May-2011
3:20:04 PM

Hey Buddy, I hope I am not to late and you have not made your purchase.

I have Ice climbed in Europe and I worked in a leading outdoor store in London selling this stuff.
Some said that RAB is great stuff. I would have to agree with them BUT they did get the fill wrong of the Photon Jacket, it is only 145g in the body and 100g in the arms and hood.
What you would be after by RAB is a Photon Belay Jacket. it is 200g in body and 175g in arms and hood..

Any way when it come to jackets like this you have three AWSOME choice they are as Follows:
1) RAB Photon Belay Jacket. it is 200g in body and 175g in arms and hood.
2) Patagonia Das Parka. I think it is 175g all over (body, hood and arms)
3) Mountain Equipment (UK Brand) Citadel Jacket. it is 200g in body and 170g in arms and hood

Oh yeah one last thing I have a Rab Generator Vest it is good. I rate it but its not the best for a sub zero day

I hope this helps, If you buy anything from the UK they should take of the VAT (there version of GST) it now at 20%, so with the to think about it may not be to bad!!!


StuckNut

10-May-2011
2:06:25 PM

In the end, due to lack of stock in my size everywhere I enquired, and not wanting to wait much longer to purchase, I decided to settle for the MH Compressor(linked a couple of posts up). Which will get me through this winter of cragging and occasional overnighter in the snow. I'll check out a more substantial jacket later on before I head to colder climates.

Thanks for the extra info Mr Poo.

FYI.. anyone looking to buy the MH Compressor online, I suggest getting a size larger. After reading a few reviews and noting some comments about the sizing being a tad small, I ordered the large and it fits me perfect(180cm, 80kg).

bones

10-May-2011
2:57:15 PM

On 14/04/2011 Jase wrote:
>I'm surprised synthetic jackets aren't more popular here with our comparatively
>mild/wet winters. I have had a down sleeping bag collapse on me on a week
>long winter trip on the range, where it rained the first night saturating
>everything and then blizzard for the next 4 days - it was below freezing
>outside but everything inside the tent stayed damp.

For weekend cragging Down Jackets get a lot of use because they are the warmest and most comfortable. There are obvioulsly exceptions, but most people don't stand in the rain or experience serious damp issues on trips to araps, so a downie is a good option.
For warmth with a bit of shower-proofness and stretch I reckon you can't go past a good softshell.

>...btw, whats the deal with everyone wearing down jackets for belaying
>at the gym?!
I don't wear a down jacket at the gym, but some gyms can get really cold and it's probably an efficient way of dealing with this.

There are 39 messages in this topic.