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Synthetic insulated jacket (belay parka)


StuckNut

12-Apr-2011
11:15:52 AM

Are there any decent ones available locally? I cant seem to find anything other than down jackets here.

Been looking online at U.S. sites but it appears to be that time of year where the only stock of the popular models they have are closeouts and odd sizes.

Want something for snow camping, crappy Vic winter cragging and possibly a Patagonia trip at some stage soon.

citationx

12-Apr-2011
12:21:39 PM

Don't know if it's sold in bogong (it's sold in Mountain Equipment in Sydney, they share suppliers) butI really like the look of the Rab.. something or another. It's typically blue, around 100gm of synth filling in the body and 60 or so gm in the arms. it has a hood and a fairly decent outer material. of course, it costs over $200 here (dunno exact price - name missing from my mind and it doesn't appear on their website). Still, if it goes on sale, i'm definitely a fan.
Otherwise, if you'd be an XL you could check out my post on here for my old OR Chaos jacket which has the same fill weights, i'm sure i could do a deal if you're interested in function, not shiny newness..... :-P

(post edit - i believe that ME is selling this, which is what i'm referring to: https://www.adventurepeaks.com/acatalog/Rab_Generator_Alpine_Jacket.html)


StuckNut

12-Apr-2011
12:34:44 PM

I think XL will be too big, I'm prob about a M or L. I'm about 180cm and 80kg.

I was in Bogong on Sat having a quick look and didn't see 'any' insulated jackets? I may have missed them though - I didnt ask.

I did check out the OR Chaos online and it looks good, but I am not sure they are still making them? The RAB parka and the Patagonia DAS also get good reviews but also having trouble finding stock. There looks to be some stuff available online in the UK but pricing is a little steep buying from there ;-(


StuckNut

12-Apr-2011
12:48:08 PM

citationx - just noticed your later edit. I'll pop into ME and check out the RAB it looks pretty close to what I need.

Do you find the 100gm fill warm enough in sub zero temps when not being very active?

Mike Bee

12-Apr-2011
1:15:34 PM

I'd suggest going for something a bit thicker than a 100gsm fill synthetic for long belays in the cold. 100gsm has got me through some trips in Oz, but I definitely was happy to have my 200gsm jacket when I was ice climbing in Canada during March. If you want to keep the weight down by sticking with 100gsm, then don't skimp on the fill quality, and buy a jacket with Primaloft One fill, rather than Primaloft Sport or Eco.

Check out the Rab Photon Belay Jacket. 200gsm in the body, lighter fill in the arms and hood, and a very water resistant outer fabric. This is what I have, and I really like it. Don't buy a belay jacket without a hood that fits over your helmet, you'll spend a lot of time regretting it.

As for sizing, I'm also 180cm and 80kg (well 79 or so) and I got a large. It's too big, a mate has since purchased a medium, and it fits me much better, so thats what I'd suggest for you.

Anyone who stocks Rab should be able to order it in for you, even if they don't stock it. Something with that much fill and the good outer fabric isn't cheap, from memory, the Rab belay jacket retails around $450 in Oz, but I love it. Highly recommended. I've used it ice climbing in Canada, and my core was never cold, despite the ambient temps and long belays, and my mate used it heading up Lobuche East in Nepal, and likewise, he was never cold.

citationx

12-Apr-2011
1:30:48 PM

On 12/04/2011 Mike Bee wrote:
>I'd suggest going for something a bit thicker than a 100gsm fill synthetic
>for long belays in the cold. 100gsm has got me through some trips in Oz,
>but I definitely was happy to have my 200gsm jacket when I was ice climbing
>in Canada during March. If you want to keep the weight down by sticking
>with 100gsm, then don't skimp on the fill quality, and buy a jacket with
>Primaloft One fill, rather than Primaloft Sport or Eco.

In answer to your question, and backing up mike bee's, the 100gm doesn't really keep you warm if you're loafing around backcountry camping, for example. I would use it as a belay jacket while ice climbing, multipitching, or in general on the move in high alpine areas, but probably wouldn't suit if you're in a tent up there.
Then again, as with a lot of clothing issues, you really have to choose what you want, something to keep you warm at camp in the snow, or something to keep you warm during a 1/2-1 hour belay in the snow? You either sacrifice warmth for space when you're sitting around camp, or weight/space when you're generating some heat but still on the move, I haven't found any light-weight clothing with a thermostat yet... ;-)


ajfclark

12-Apr-2011
2:32:09 PM

On 12/04/2011 Jase wrote:
>I was in Bogong on Sat having a quick look and didn't see 'any' insulated jackets? I may have missed them though - I didnt ask.

Did you look upstairs? I think they're up with the tents and day packs.


StuckNut

12-Apr-2011
4:00:52 PM

>Did you look upstairs? I think they're up with the tents and day packs.

There's an upstairs? *doh*!


ajfclark

12-Apr-2011
4:15:09 PM

Yes. The stairs are on the left past the change rooms (heading in to the store).

james

12-Apr-2011
10:11:39 PM

get a bigger size than usual for synth belay jacket. Bigger size means it goes on top of your climbing shell.
I have a Mtn Hardwear Voodoo & it was good for 4 years of climbing & b-c skiing in the Canadian Rockies.
Not sure the tech spec's (it was a touch thicker/puffier than the OR Chaos though), no doubt you can find them. IMO you are splitting hairs comparing 100 or 150g or whatever fill. For practical purposes if its -15 or colder, you have to keep moving to stay warm no matter what you are wearing. If you are belaying ice climbing, moving means stamping feet, swinging your arms, wriggling toes constantly. Same thing goes sitting on a ski lift in -25, wriggle toes, clap hands, do everything to move anything you can to keep blood flowing.

I climbed in -20 (once), but -15 max day time temps were pretty normal for in town (valley bottom). It was always colder up higher skiing on cold days - I usually went bc skiing on cold days (sunny aspects).
Voodoo jacket was great, & I have no doubt it wil last for many more years.

brendan

12-Apr-2011
11:51:29 PM

http://www.bivouac.co.nz/clothing/mens-clothing/mens-jackets/outdoor-research-mens-chaos-primaloft-jacket-deleted-colour.html

free postage, they got one in size M too.

I ve had one of these for about 4 years now its lost its puffy-ness a little (its been worn heaps) ill probably buy another before my upcoming trip ,


BoulderBaby

13-Apr-2011
12:01:53 AM

I think that the Rab jackets will be an awesome investment. Top gear! (support the peak!!!)

brendan

13-Apr-2011
12:15:43 AM

my recomendation dont spend over $200/$250 on a belay jacket, the thing will get destroyed from ice axes/screws and it will lose its loft faster then a down jacket.

On 12/04/2011 Mike Bee wrote:
>
>Check out the Rab Photon Belay Jacket. 200gsm in the body, lighter fill
>in the arms and hood, and a very water resistant outer fabric. This is
>what I have, and I really like it. Don't buy a belay jacket without a hood
>that fits over your helmet, you'll spend a lot of time regretting it.
>
>
>Anyone who stocks Rab should be able to order it in for you, even if they
>don't stock it. Something with that much fill and the good outer fabric
>isn't cheap, from memory, the Rab belay jacket retails around $450 in Oz,
>but I love it. Highly recommended.

this looks like a great jacket, but $450? really

rockotter

13-Apr-2011
11:30:27 PM

This the jacket you want perhaps http://rab.uk.com/products/mens-clothing/primaloft_1/generator-alpine-jacket.html : )

scooby

14-Apr-2011
12:00:58 AM

On 12/04/2011 brendan wrote:
>http://www.bivouac.co.nz/clothing/mens-clothing/mens-jackets/outdoor-research-mens-chaos-p
>imaloft-jacket-deleted-colour.html
>
>free postage, they got one in size M too.
>
>I ve had one of these for about 4 years now its lost its puffy-ness a
>little (its been worn heaps) ill probably buy another before my upcoming
>trip ,

I have one of these as well and my downie has been left in the cupboard ever since. I'm about the same size as you and find the M is big enough to go over a baselayer and shell pretty comfortably, if you think you'll be wearing more than that maybe go with a large, or move faster!


StuckNut

14-Apr-2011
10:09:33 AM

Cheers for the info. I'm tossing up between the OR Chaos or the RAB Generator Alpine. I have managed to find both online at similar prices. (under $200AU so I'm happy!)

I'm leaning towards the RAB at the moment. One stupid reason being, I have the option of red in the RAB, the Chaos is only black, if they are technically the same I would prefer red. My salopettes are black, so I'd be like some kind of stealth snow ninja in the Chaos. Maybe thats a good thing?

widewetandslippery

14-Apr-2011
10:16:18 AM

your choice of colour is for the wrong reasons but it is sensible.

Black clothing gets hot. Overheating sucks.

A lighter colour will not effect performance in bad or night conditions.

Damien Gildea

14-Apr-2011
10:27:58 AM

Bright colours are good for keeping track of each other in bad conditions. Black just blends into the storm.

There are quite few synthetic belay jackets lingering on the racks of outdoor stores in Australia, as most here don't like or need them, even though they're much more appropriate for our winter conditions than down.

Macpac made a decent synth jacket in recent years, now discontinued, but available at clearance prices in some of their shops. Larry Adler in Kent St Sydney used to have good Marmot Belay jackets. MtnEquipment in Kent St usually has some Rab or LoweAlpine model hanging around. Trek n Travel in Kent St has Rab synth jackets and did have Mountain Hardwear Compressors on sale a while back, they're good jackets (cheap and plentiful online from US right now). Paddy Pallin clearance shop in Melb has some Cloudveil synth jackets, limited sizes.


StuckNut

14-Apr-2011
10:50:34 AM

I'm gonna do the rounds of the local stores this weekend before I pull the trigger.

I'm surprised synthetic jackets aren't more popular here with our comparatively mild/wet winters. I have had a down sleeping bag collapse on me on a week long winter trip on the range, where it rained the first night saturating everything and then blizzard for the next 4 days - it was below freezing outside but everything inside the tent stayed damp.

...btw, whats the deal with everyone wearing down jackets for belaying at the gym?!

widewetandslippery

14-Apr-2011
11:52:22 AM

>
>...btw, whats the deal with everyone wearing down jackets for belaying
>at the gym?!

Its cool to be gay.

There are 39 messages in this topic.