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Crack climbing gloves - the ethics


Rich

17-Jun-2003
3:06:20 PM

it's an interesting concept really about how much ' body aid' people are willing to accept before its considered 'cheating'. what if technology came up with a way to reinforce you fingers so you u can crimp like a demon? it doesn't damage the rock but it certainly puts u in the superhuman catergory in my books! ;-) Where do people draw the line or is anything ok as long you are not weighting gear??the superglue on fingers concept is an interesting one too...
cheers
Rich

Dalai

17-Jun-2003
3:23:21 PM

Superglue is a brilliant product for treating splits and cuts on fingers - just need to make sure it's dried before touching anything!!


IdratherbeclimbingM9

17-Jun-2003
4:33:38 PM

Re Rich: "what if technology came up with a way to reinforce you fingers so you u can crimp like a demon?"

The wearing of rings could be the 1st steps in this direction, ... kind of like portable stoppers in finger cracks.
Does this mean we can wear bracelets and bangles for fist and offwidths?

(I may be into aid; but no, ... I am not entirely bent)!


Rich

17-Jun-2003
5:56:47 PM

On 17/06/2003 A5iswhereitsat wrote:
>The wearing of rings could be the 1st steps in this direction, ... kind
>of like portable stoppers in finger cracks.
>Does this mean we can wear bracelets and bangles for fist and offwidths?

yeh perhaps long rings for each part of your finger so they don't bend.. gee i think we shoudl termiante this before people start trying it!!

kieranl

17-Jun-2003
11:30:50 PM

Guys,
If you wear ornaments when you are climbing and you fall there is the potential for these ornaments to become snagged during the fall. There is potential for serious injury (e.g. a ring on a finger might remove all of the finger above the ring).
It's not a far-fetached scenario. A friend of mine almost lost a thumb when it got hooked on a wire in an aid fall.


Donut King

18-Jun-2003
1:10:07 PM

Rich,

this is an interseting one.....and one that will get mch personal comment i'm sure.

i think going the way of getting "kevlar" tendon implants on titanium figer bones with "Stealth" skin replacement might be going a wee bit far.

But in reality "body aid" is widely accepted in sports with all sorts of substances being used (both chemical & physical) and lets not forget about my favourite ...using oxygen during mountaineering...in my book its just not on. If the body cant take it then it shouldnt be there....but perhaps that should be the subject of another thread?

Superglue is great but just dont use it on inside bit of the tear, unless your using the medically approved stuff

caio

donut

Dalai

18-Jun-2003
1:16:15 PM

Superglue hurts initially in the cut. In such small quantities, it can't be that bad. Well it hasn't done me any harm yet and I have been a user for many years!!


Donut King

19-Jun-2003
5:26:09 PM

dalai

yeep, i too have used supaglue to heal the odd flapper when ive had to, so as to continue crankin without any bad side effects (cant seem to get the bag of my head though!)

Superglue *can* cause an inflammatory reaction that can be quite intense for some people.

most suerglues contain some sort of cyanoacrylate group, which i think casues the reaction.

the medical stuff goes under many names such as DERMABOND and its big plus is that is sterile. many acute hospitals use it.....

still most climber i know are so far from the sterile end of the cleanliness continuimm that sterile glue is the last thing on their mind, much further in need of clean eating implaments!

Speaking of crack gloves, what about those thigh pads used to gain addditional grip for knee bars...?


tmarsh

19-Jun-2003
5:43:41 PM

>Speaking of crack gloves, what about those thigh pads used to gain addditional
>grip for knee bars...?

Hoo wee. *now* you're talking my language. I've been watching all this shite about crack gloves thinking 'yep, but it still involves sticking yer mits into dank horrible cracks'.

Knee pads are the business, although not strictly necessary for most applications. A durable pair of 3/4 length pants is all the help you need really. But stealth on the knees has got to be a benefit.

Mind you this is coming from someone who regards a good kneebar as the best sensation in modern climbing.

I'll stop now before I make a fool of myself.

Cheers,
Tim

Dalai

19-Jun-2003
10:03:05 PM

Donut King
> (cant seem to get the bag of my head though!) LOL
Is it possible to buy DERMABOND locally? If a safer product exists, is available and isn't too expensive then it sounds good. In the States I was put onto a product called 'Crazy Glue' which I was told was non-toxic, but had the same ingredients as the standard run of the mill superglue so was probably a furphy.
As for knee pads - In Rifle Colorado, knee pads with stealth rubber glued on for better grip was de rigueur for many climbs. Love them, worth their weight in gold.


Donut King

20-Jun-2003
12:49:32 PM

Dalai

I'm not sure you can buy Dermadond locally, as far as i know it has to be applied by a doc, somthing about people sticking their eyelids shut or something equily stupid.

As i said, its main advantage is its that its sterile, the chemical makeup is the same. i dont thinks its as durable as superglue either. Dermabong gives a realtively flexible covering, superglue goes rock hard.
Crazy-glue non-toxic......i agree it was pobably a furph.

re the knee pads, there is an article in climbing that gives details on how to build one out of a knee support at climbing rubber if anyones keen.

peace ya'all

Dalai

20-Jun-2003
1:26:40 PM

Thanks Donut King re:Dermabond info. Looks like I will have to stick to the trusty super glue..


Donut King

20-Jun-2003
2:05:06 PM

just dont use it to fix a runny nose!!!!

hahahahahaha....pathetic i know, but what do you expect?

dk


Scratch

21-Jun-2003
11:41:41 AM

anyone used tegaderm to fix a flapper? I haven't tried it yet, as I haven't farked my hand badly yet.. I've used it in non-climbing situations, and it's pretty good.. (it's sorta like really sticky contact - y'know, the stuff you cover books with)

kieranl

23-Jun-2003
8:20:40 PM

I'm not quite sure where this thread is heading in terms of wearing rings on fingers.
If all you guys want to do is make senseless banter then that is fine with me.
To be serious, if you choose to wear a ring on your finger or any other piece of jewellery on your body, if that piece catches on anything during a fall then it can slice straight through flesh and bone. Actually it can slice through bone at any angle it feels like.
You can get the same effect by catching a digit in the loop of a wire in any fall.
If you are lucky you will be choppered to Melbourne in time to get the digit re-attached with micro-surgery.
Hope this helps to focus things, Kieran


Rich

23-Jun-2003
10:40:40 PM

Hey I was wondering when you were going to add your two cents to an otherwise interesting and friendly discussion.
Really Kieran, I think we've all heard enough of your ranting and raving about how certain threads don't fit with your idea of what is apt and appropriate. This isn't your forum and you are not a moderator. I don't think many people would object if I asked you to kindly keep your opinions to yourself in regards to the above in the future.
No hard feelings,
Rich


Donut King

24-Jun-2003
2:34:43 PM

On 23/06/2003 kieranl wrote:
>I'm not quite sure where this thread is heading in terms of wearing rings
>on fingers.

the topic is clearly stated as to do with Crack climbing gloves, not rings on fingers

>Hope this helps to focus things, Kieran

not in the slightest.

Really, if you dont like the way the tread is going then its totally up to you to simply not follow the thread and not join in......problem solved

the rest as per Rich's comments


mrsnuffy

24-Jun-2003
3:10:44 PM

Actually i think Kieran is rightly taking aversion to the (joking) suggestion that people would wear rings/bangles etc as a form of so called 'body aid'. This practice may or may not be ethical - but it certainly isn't safe. (see earlier thread under 'Accidents' if anyone is any doubt about this)

If i'm hearing people correctly (and getting back on topic) then it seems that 'All technology is good technology' as long as it makes the climbing more
i) Safe (thanks Kieran)
ii) Enjoyable (what are we here for again? - thanks Kezza)
iii) Doesn't destroy the rock in the process.

Thankyou for everyone's contributions.

kieranl

24-Jun-2003
10:58:21 PM

That's fine, it's no skin off my nose. I gave my opinion on the original topic (crack-gloves) which was that I thought they were no problem but couldn't see the point in using them.
The thread then veered for some time onto the topic of wearing jewellery while climbing.
I responded to that. Then I wasn't sure where the thread was going, hence my last post.
If you have a problem with serious comment then you will get no apology from me. I have not placed an offensive post on this thread, nor made a personal attack on anyone.
I have no right to dictate what goes on this thread but I have as much right to criticise the content as you do.
Another problem I have is that I am being told that if I don't like it then I should bugger off! That's an elitist attitude. If I disagree with someone, I can argue back and I have no problem if the criticism is returned.
Perhaps the guys who criticised me for bringing up the ring issue could review the thread and they would see where that came from.
Enough of this. Bye for the night,
Kieran


Donut King

25-Jun-2003
1:43:28 PM

This group having an 'elitist attitude'....hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha...

keep em coming kieranl, your posts are sometimes a ray of sunshine in an otherwise dull day. trolling along, waiting for myself and sometimes other, to bite.

i am constantly having to be reminded that the topic of climbing is such a serious pursuit, requiring serious comment from serious individuals.....

There are 71 messages in this topic.