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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 32
Author
Reslinging Cams - Finally a solution!

Superstu
9-Nov-2010
10:46:08 AM
Most of the cams on my rack are more than 15 years old. They still work fine with the occasional replacement of trigger wire - and cleaning and lubing. But the slings were retired a long time ago, looking fuzzy, faded, etc and very uninspiring. Tried using webbing with tied waterknots; OK but a bit bulky on your harness when you have 10+ cams. Tried thin dyneema doubled over, too hard to clip.

Nobody in Australia seemed to offer a cam reslinging service at a reasonable price. I have approached a number of companies which would have the capacity to do it; I either got a ridiculous quote (more expensive than buying new cams from the US) or no reply at all. Conclusion: not enough money to be made and too much risk.

Just got my cams back from Aspiring Enterprises, who are based in NZ.

Price - NZ$8 per cam, or NZ$9 if I'd wanted double slings.
Material: 15mm dyneema, 4 colour choices
Postage across the Tasman: $25 each way* for about 10 cams in one box.
Details: http://www.aspiring.co.nz/
Turnaround: 8 days (from posting to delivery back at my door)

*I went express post because the thought of two weekends in a row of sport climbing was just too awful to consider.





I went for a single sling because the old Wild Country cams won't take doubled sling through the hole in the stem. I guess you could ask for them a bit longer if you prefer.

I receive no kickback/discount for posting this here. I'm just totally stoked that I finally found somebody who can do it!

ajfclark
9-Nov-2010
10:56:29 AM
Thanks for sharing Stu. This has come up several times that I can think of with no real solutions.
gfdonc
9-Nov-2010
11:23:02 AM
I'll do it for $48..

Miguel75
9-Nov-2010
11:24:01 AM
Excellent find Superstu. Height Dynamics in Brisbane also resling cams. I was quoted $16.50 for a double sling, which seems reasonable.
another dave
9-Nov-2010
2:25:20 PM
Awesome
Winston Smith
9-Nov-2010
3:02:52 PM
Do they resling a*ses? When I announce I'm going climbing my a*se often ends in a sling which has now become frayed and needs replacing. I s'pose postage will be the killer.
rightarmbad
9-Nov-2010
5:05:12 PM
Or just buy some shiny new cams for $35 from the states.
Sling included.
HumphreyG
12-Oct-2011
2:06:45 PM

That's awesome - are the new slings rated? I had a look on the website but coudln't find the info.
mikllaw
12-Oct-2011
2:22:42 PM
On 12/10/2011 HumphreyG wrote:
>
>That's awesome - are the new slings rated? I had a look on the website
>but coudln't find the info.

They would be bomber, probably stronger than the biner clipepd to it. Even sewing on a domestic is overkill.

The double sling option, tho appealing, can reduce the strength of the sling and also of the wire loop. BD tested this and found that in a few cases, they failed at 'low' loads, from memory they strength dropped from > 20kN to about 7 kN, still plenty strong enuff for anything than a fcator 2 onto a belay

ajfclark
12-Oct-2011
2:25:24 PM
It was DMM that tested it on the thumb loops they were going to use on the Dragons before they realised it wouldn't work and went to the stem design they've got now wasn't it?

[edit - can't find the page I'm looking for on the prototype Dragons... BD's thumb loop testing came up though: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/all/qc-labreslinging-camalots-and-c3s

Further edit:

http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2010/02/dragons-to-be-unveiled-at-ispo/

The main change involves the extendable 8mm dyneema sling because this was cutting through the wire stem loop at high loads. The DMM designers came up with an elegant solution that involved forging a 7075 aluminium thumb grip that has a large, concave surface for a secure and stable grip. The termination is very strong in every orientation and allows the units to be rated at 14kN with the sling in both extended and doubled positions.

Pics of the original thumb loop: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=48937 http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2009/07/enter-the-dragon/

]

shortman
12-Oct-2011
11:05:12 PM
On 12/10/2011 mikllaw wrote:

>Even sewing on a domestic is overkill.

What do you mean?

Also, are you the guy who could test my home made slings?

Would love to know what they break at.
simey
13-Oct-2011
9:38:00 AM
What if the sling is okay but the cam itself is hammered? Can they do cam replacement for slings?
KylieJ
27-Oct-2011
10:35:24 AM
I'm so chuffed about this! I found the sling strength rating on their website, 22kN: http://www.aspiring.co.nz/custom-slings.aspx
bobic
28-Oct-2011
4:03:32 PM
I don't get why double slings are so much weaker. Please explain.
Jayford4321
28-Oct-2011
5:00:43 PM
Ferno also re-sling cams right here in Australia for very reasonable prices.

Doug
28-Oct-2011
10:22:40 PM
On 28/10/2011 Gnaguts wrote:
>Ferno also re-sling cams right here in Australia for very reasonable prices.
More details, please?
Jayford4321
29-Oct-2011
9:18:57 PM
just email ferno
garry
4-Nov-2011
4:25:29 PM
Hey Ferno do you have a bar tacker?
Garry
dave
6-Nov-2011
11:04:29 PM
On 4/11/2011 garry wrote:
>Hey Ferno do you have a bar tacker?
>Garry

http://www.ferno.com.au/tabid/70/CategoryID/525/ProductID/16290/Default.aspx
maelgwn
23-Nov-2012
4:40:21 PM
Has anyone found someone local who can do two layers of sling around the thumb loop, like the C4s ...


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There are 32 messages in this topic.

 

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