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Micro nut comparision

ajfclark

19-Nov-2009
1:45:55 PM

http://www.dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?ngroup=2&nid=221

and more here:

http://www.rockclimbingcompany.co.uk/Technical-Information/Micro-Nuts.html

ambyeok

19-Nov-2009
2:27:53 PM

On 19/11/2009 ajfclark wrote:
>http://www.rockclimbingcompany.co.uk/Technical-Information/Micro-Nuts.html

Eh? Table at the bottom... how come a 2RP with 2mm wire gets 5.5KN and is called "Awesome", but a 3RP with 2mm wire getting 5.5KN is called "High - most likely a mean or max reading"?

ambyeok

19-Nov-2009
2:29:04 PM

p.s. Can someone explain to me why some nuts have 2+2 on them? How strong are they? 2KN or 4KN? [edit: Cant remember which nuts, could be the peanuts]

ajfclark

19-Nov-2009
2:32:48 PM

On 19/11/2009 ambyeok wrote:
>Eh? Table at the bottom... how come a 2RP with 2mm wire gets 5.5KN and is called "Awesome", but a 3RP with 2mm wire getting 5.5KN is called "High - most likely a mean or max reading"?

Maybe "It tested better than the new, similarly sized DMM product; it must be a statistical problem with the way the RP was tested"?

ambyeok

19-Nov-2009
2:33:30 PM

p.p.s. My conclusion about these nuts: "Small soldered nuts are generally stronger than the equivalent size of swaged nut because"... the bottom is thicker. There is no reason you cant make a swaged nut the same size with a thicker bottom right? But you reduce some of the placement options because the wire is thicker.

another dave

19-Nov-2009
10:04:41 PM

I believe one of the articles also says you will destroy the wire either through breaking the wire at the carabiner or leave some metal behind in the rock. I think it also says above a certain size swaggered nuts are better because the have more rock contact therefore leaving less metal behind in the rock.
So how about the metolius astro nuts:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1120
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/astro_nut.html
Not only do you get more of them but there curved design says they seat better when every so slightly flaring.
Anybody used them and actually know?

SteveC

20-Nov-2009
7:22:22 AM

totally opposed. they wobble around in normal placements that you could drop three different size Kong or BD
wires in.
DMM are the only nuts worth using.
I don't eat oranges either.

ambyeok

20-Nov-2009
10:19:58 AM

On 19/11/2009 ambyeok wrote:
>p.s. Can someone explain to me why some nuts have 2+2 on them? How strong
>are they? 2KN or 4KN? [edit: Cant remember which nuts, could be the peanuts]

Anybody?

ajfclark

20-Nov-2009
11:00:39 AM

Maybe it's the two different orientations?

ambyeok

20-Nov-2009
11:27:04 AM

On 20/11/2009 ajfclark wrote:
>Maybe it's the two different orientations?

You might have cracked it AJF, I think I must have been talking about WC Mini Rocks, their website says:

Mini Rocks Colour Code Long Edge Width mm Depth mm Weight gm Weight oz Strength kN Side Strength kN
Rock on wire 0 Gold 9.6 4.4 6 0.21 2 2
Rock on wire 0.25 Blue 10.6 4.9 6 0.21 2 2
Rock on wire 0.5 Red 11.6 5.6 10 0.35 4 2
Rock on wire 0.75 Silver 12.1 6.9 10 0.35 4 2

[edit:] So the "side strength" relates to the chance of the nut pulling through the rock due to its thin profile and taper in that orientation?

There are 10 messages in this topic.