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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
Bolting What do you need and where do you get it?

..::- Chris -::..
1-Oct-2003
9:23:17 AM
This has probably been covered before, but i haven't noticed anything.

Given the discussion of open projects and all this talk of new routes, it's sparked me again to get my bum into gear and put something back into climbing, New Routes!!.

I've been contemplating bolting some new routes, and I think I know of enough new routes to warrent (perhaps) the purchase of the equipment however I have no idea where to buy the eqipment, how much it costs and the million dollar question, someone or somewhere to learn how to do this properly....??

Any Ideas,
What equipment, options there are ??
How Much ??
Where you can purchase it ??
and where did everyone learn to bolt ?? assume mentor thing... I know enough people
that bolt routes but weather there is a format that needs to be stuck too ??

I want to do this properly , pehaps not possible ??

Hawkman
1-Oct-2003
9:58:37 AM
hey chris,

the gear for bolting is expensive. Panasonic make an awesome drill (newly upgraded) but is cost over $1000 so not cheap. there are some cheaper ones around but they are still $800+

grigri's are very hand for jugging up and lowering off ropes. much easier than two jumars.

its generally best to tag along with someone bolting and learn that way.

there is heaps more but ill let a victorian fill you in on sources and local practices

steve

..::- Chris -::..
1-Oct-2003
10:08:30 AM
Steve is that a petrol hammer drill, I've been told thats the way to go, but no idea of brand make model etc...?? If I can do it for under 1.5k for the basic setup perhaps that is OK and expected, over 2k is getting a bit much.......
Dalai
1-Oct-2003
10:11:52 AM
Ryobi don't make the Petrol drill anymore. I bought possibly the last one in Australia back in 94. You will have to go with Batteries.

..::- Chris -::..
1-Oct-2003
10:16:52 AM
Nobody is making petrol powered drills anymore ??
Steve whats the go in NSW ?? also the reason i was told to get a petrol drill was
due to the fact the batteries run out to quickly with battery powered drills...Is this
not true ?? how many holes do you get rough ?? I know depends on the rock, say
grampians taipan style rock...??

Hawkman
1-Oct-2003
10:22:01 AM
petrol HAMMER drills are awesome but you wont find any new ones left in australia. if you see a second hand one grab it. that said often petrol drills are not appropriate in NP's as they are way loud. you may be able to import them from overseas but i have no idea. battery drill are great. the new ones generally have two batteries so you have a back up. the drill i have is tempremental as its old but has done upto 24 bolts in blueys sandstone. much less in the grampians though as the rock is harder (hey neil).

if you have two batterties that should be fine for a days bolting. then you go back to camp and recharge it (if possible). i think the new panasonics have 3Ahr batteries which are very heavy duty.

steve
Dalai
1-Oct-2003
10:45:04 AM
As far as I am aware, Ryobi were the only company making a Petrol hammer drill. It was initially made as a farm tool were people didn't have access to a generator. Since then battery technology has improved so much that Ryobi decided to stop making them.

nmonteith
1-Oct-2003
10:50:30 AM
I can teach you the best techniques of bolting on a one to one basis if you live in melbourne. Email me offline. Refer to my Rebolt Victoria pages for some ideas on the type of bolts you would like to place and some bolting hints.

http://www.chockstone.org/Rebolting/bolting_guide.html
http://www.chockstone.org/Rebolting/bolt_guide.html

Petrol drills are appaling, noisy things that shoudln't be used anywhere near National Parks. Think - whipper snipper with drill on the end and you get some sort of idea of the noise.

Hawkman
1-Oct-2003
10:53:58 AM
more like a chainsaw with drill on end

nmonteith
1-Oct-2003
12:37:06 PM
I use the Panasonic drill which gets about 8-10 12mm holes in good Grampians sandstone. If you are notching ringbolt holes then it might do 7 or so holes per battery. I find unless you are bolting easy vertical faces/slabs then you will be exhusted after placing 20 bolts in a day anyway.

At my house i have a collection of all types of bolts, glue, test blocks and examples of placements. If anyone wants a free demo then shoot me an email. I bolt pretty much every weekend so a 'in the field' trip could also be arranged. I am thinking of heading to Youies or Black Hill this sunday for some rebolting.

neil (@) mrppp.com.au

tmarsh
7-Oct-2003
4:42:04 PM
Most of the major tool companies make a 24v hammerdrill these days. DeWalt, Bosch, Hitachi, Makita and Panasonic spring to mind. They are all good and will all do the job. The Panasonic would probably be the best of the bunch, mainly due to the excellent NiMH batteries it comes with. That said, if you see any of them on sale snap them up. I saw a Bosch at an end-of-financial year clearance for about $500. If I didn't already have one, I'd have bought it. I have used (and abused) a Bosch for some years now. It's been great, but I'd go Panasonic on the next one.

In terms of how to bolt and where and what to buy...

Don't take this the wrong way, Chris, but asking on a forum like this isn't the way to go.

The best approach - in my opinion - is to educate yourself. Look up Fasteners on the web or nin the yellow pages. Any of the major manufacturers will fall over themselves to send you technical guff on *any* of their products. Read through it all. You'll learn heaps more than anyone's going to tell you here eg difference between rated strength and ultimate strength for bolts and glues, minimum spacing between holes, length vs width in determining bolt strength, which glues are moisture sensitive, etc.

The most imporant thing in bolting routes isn't the gear, it's the knowledge in how to use it. It's a lot less costly to get the knowledge first and then buy the trinkets, particularly when you consider that lives will hang on your decisions.

All that said, if you decide to place glue-in rings, let me know and I'll weld you up a batch - and tell you the best way to place them. ;-)

Cheers,
Tim
Dalai
7-Oct-2003
4:48:19 PM
Hi Tim,

what price are you selling the rings for per unit??

tmarsh
7-Oct-2003
9:04:17 PM
$5 each, with $2.50 going to Rebolt Victoria.

tim
Dalai
8-Oct-2003
1:23:05 PM
Thanks Tim, great value and going to a good cause.

When I get around to climbing higher than 4 or 5 metres again I'll put in an order...
kieranl
8-Oct-2003
10:54:49 PM
Petrol drills were great but terrible for drilling one-handed. Maybe HB could have used one while hanging off a hand-hold under tension on an overhang but I always needed two hands. They were just so heavy and long. Brilliant drill when you could use both hands.

vwills
31-Oct-2003
1:07:00 PM
A simple question- where can you source long thin bottle brushes to clean rock dust out of drill holes. Hardware stores, pet shops and supermarkets don't seem to have anything suitable. The teat section of baby bottle brushes is the right diameter but way too short.
Incidentally we've found "flatus" or "rectal" tubes to be the best device to blow dust out if you have access to hospital supplies. (They come in nice sterile packets- don't worry).

nmonteith
31-Oct-2003
1:14:20 PM
Hilti, Ramset or most fastener shops have them in stock. I bought mine from Bunnings about 4 years ago.

Rich
31-Oct-2003
2:03:30 PM
don't they have those bong stem cleaners at those smoke paraphenlia places (so i've heard), they would do the trick ;-)

tmarsh
31-Oct-2003
4:37:40 PM
I went to Ramset in Richmond to get one of the 'proper' brushes. The bloke wanted some ridiculous amount. 100 meters down the road was a kitchenwear shop who sold me a teapot spout cleaner for $2. It's been in my bolting bag ever since.

Cheers,
tim

There are 19 messages in this topic.

 

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