Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

Author

SICG St Peters - Ground fall

Twiggs

12-Apr-2012
10:22:16 PM

A guy took a high ground fall whilst leading tonight, was last clipped about 5m from the top of the wall and hit the floor very hard.

Ambulance got there fast and was attending to him when we left, does anyone know if he is ok?


garbie

12-Apr-2012
10:37:20 PM

He seemed pretty good when he left with the ambos, considering. No obvious injuries, although he'll need to be observed to make sure. It was a belaying mishap. An atc style of device.

dalai

12-Apr-2012
10:47:30 PM

Never good news. Hopefully no injuries and back climbing as soon as possible!

One Day Hero

12-Apr-2012
11:26:22 PM

Is it too early to start making jokes about how you'll soon be running out of approved belay devices, now that atc's are gonna be banned?


..::- Chris -::..

13-Apr-2012
4:40:09 AM

On 12/04/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Is it too early to start making jokes about how you'll soon be running
>out of approved belay devices, now that atc's are gonna be banned?

+1


garbie

13-Apr-2012
8:40:00 AM

ha ha. It'll be classic belays only pretty soon!

kieranl

13-Apr-2012
9:02:42 AM

On 13/04/2012 garbie wrote:
>ha ha. It'll be classic belays only pretty soon!
Presumably only rated belay gloves will be used.


garbie

13-Apr-2012
9:04:16 AM

not to mention more people climbing in jeans

Mike Bee

13-Apr-2012
9:50:44 AM

It's all about belayer's competence, not the belayer's device.


Miguel75

13-Apr-2012
10:00:13 AM

Not in Vic;) Each gym use different devises, which I'm told is because their individual insurance companies say the device they're using is the safest. I've always wondered if gyms are suggesting to their insurance which device they'd prefer?

widewetandslippery

13-Apr-2012
10:06:12 AM

On 13/04/2012 Mike Bee wrote:
>It's all about belayer's competence, not the belayer's device.

Ban belayers.

Duncan

13-Apr-2012
11:15:30 AM

On 12/04/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Is it too early to start making jokes about how you'll soon be running
>out of approved belay devices, now that atc's are gonna be banned?

I considered making this joke, then refrained.


Nayda

13-Apr-2012
11:32:29 AM

a genuine question not intended as a piss take - has anyone ever heard of a grigri failing? I woulda thought they're a pretty fool-proof device that any insurance co. would back?

anthonycuskelly

13-Apr-2012
11:43:24 AM

Except for the number of people who think they're foolproof...

There've been a number of accidents with grigris, particularly in the US it seems, because of belaying incompetence...

Dr Nick

13-Apr-2012
11:54:40 AM

Forget the US, Australian gyms have had many incidents with Grigris. I've been dropped when someone threaded one backwards, but from low enough I wasn't hurt (2nd or 3rd bolt at Penriff back in the mid 90s from memory). I know of several other incidents, and it's not that hard to make the cam fail to engage by catching it on something.

I still think they're fine if used sensibly, but the same is true of basically any belay device. Hands up how many successfully caught lead falls using a "sport-8" when they were popular? (For those who don't know, this was a dodgy system involving using an 8 but just clipping the small eye and the rope through the crab, rather than threading the rope around the small eye - nice and easy to pay out rope for sport climbing, nice and easy for the rope to keep going...)

dalai

13-Apr-2012
1:29:15 PM

On 13/04/2012 Dr Nick wrote:
>I still think they're fine if used sensibly, but the same is true of basically
>any belay device. Hands up how many successfully caught lead falls using
>a "sport-8" when they were popular? (For those who don't know, this was
>a dodgy system involving using an 8 but just clipping the small eye and
>the rope through the crab, rather than threading the rope around the small
>eye - nice and easy to pay out rope for sport climbing, nice and easy for
>the rope to keep going...)

These were great! I even still have my Sport-8 made by Trango I think? V slot at the base of the main part of the 8 and a rubber insert in the smaller ring of the 8 so the sport-8 stayed straight...


E. Wells

13-Apr-2012
6:57:48 PM

I have only been dropped on grigris.


Macciza

13-Apr-2012
10:08:04 PM

On 13/04/2012 dalai wrote:
>These were great! I even still have my Sport-8 made by Trango I think?
>V slot at the base of the main part of the 8 and a rubber insert in the
>smaller ring of the 8 so the sport-8 stayed straight...

Must admit I never got into those new fangled designs at the time . . .
I always thought the small hole on the eight used as a sticht plate was fine . . .
Might have to have a trip down memory belays some time . . .


IdratherbeclimbingM9

13-Apr-2012
10:23:34 PM

On 13/04/2012 Macciza wrote:
>On 13/04/2012 dalai wrote:
>>These were great! I even still have my Sport-8 made by Trango I think?
>>V slot at the base of the main part of the 8 and a rubber insert in the
>>smaller ring of the 8 so the sport-8 stayed straight...
>
>Must admit I never got into those new fangled designs at the time . .
>.
>I always thought the small hole on the eight used as a sticht plate was
>fine . . .
>Might have to have a trip down memory belays some time . . .
>

I agree with the 'bold' bit, but I suspect dalai may be talking about something else?

dalai

13-Apr-2012
10:43:50 PM

On 13/04/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>I agree with the 'bold' bit, but I suspect dalai may be talking about
>something else?

Macciza remembers the device I am referring to well. The idea of the slot was to lock the rope and the rubber grommet to hold the 8 in place.

Found a photo of the Trango Belay 8 - the two 8's bottom right.

There are 67 messages in this topic.