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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 74
Author
Complete rupture of A2 pulley
climbingjac
30/05/2011
1:21:13 PM
hahaha fair call eduardo!

nmonteith
30/05/2011
1:31:46 PM
Those remind me of these classic items from Victorian era mental wards. The anti masturbation glove...
http://museumvictoria.com.au/collections/items/249301/locked-glove-white-canvas-circa-1910

They have a few on display at the old Ararat Goal for the Criminally Insane.

stugang
30/05/2011
2:25:39 PM
On 29/05/2011 spicelab wrote:
>On 29/05/2011 useful wrote:
>>As a reformed crimper - I can thoroughly recommend practising open handing
>>as much as possible. Once you get the hang of it what was previously
>a
>>crimp becomes a rest.
>
>Just checked your profile and no surprises that you're a Victorian.
>
>The limitations to open-handed purity quickly become apparent if you're
>a Bluies climber!


Don't buy that for a second. All addictions are curable. You've just gotta come out and tell the world "Hi my name is spicelab and I am a crimper".

I was so far gone that before I started the 12 step program I split a tip crimping an offwidth. Luckily I am blessed with supportive friends and family who intervened and my life has been so much more fulfilling since.

Be strong - we care even if you don't.
kieranl
30/05/2011
3:08:10 PM
Jac, All sniggering aside, that looks fairly neat; they've even managed to go for a bit of colour. Hope it works well. Very good that surgery isn't the first call.

stugang
30/05/2011
3:25:10 PM
Can any of the more medically minded/versed comment on the use of putty in the rehab process.

I found it really useful but as the grumpy K monster points out that is anecdotal.

Eduardo Slabofvic
30/05/2011
3:37:12 PM
I did a second year physiology subject about 26 years ago, and the putty I used in rehab was this stuff that gear shops used to sell. I think it was called power putty,or some such thing.

N.B. I used this in the rehab stage, which was a month or so after sustaining the injury, and I had no bow stringing. I could not bend my finger for about two weeks.

The resistance in the putty was enough to work the finger but just a smidgen below the pain threshold. Eventually the pain went away then I went onto a squash ball for a short time, then back to climbing.

ajfclark
30/05/2011
3:38:37 PM
I'd guess that it increases blood flow while being relatively low load. Dave MacLeod's stuff says that the increased blood flow effect of the cold water treatment is what is beneficial (and light climbing too for that matter). I don't see why massaging some putty wouldn't also increase the blood flow.
JDB
30/05/2011
3:55:03 PM
On 30/05/2011 useful wrote:
>Can any of the more medically minded/versed comment on the use of putty
>in the rehab process.


Did you hear about the couple who got the vaseline and putty tubs mixed up?

Their windows fell out!!!
kieranl
30/05/2011
3:59:57 PM
On 30/05/2011 useful wrote:
>Can any of the more medically minded/versed comment on the use of putty
>in the rehab process.
>
>I found it really useful but as the grumpy K monster points out that is
>anecdotal.
>
Which is fine. You're saying what worked for you which is the sort of information that was probably wanted in the first place. You aren't trying to give medical advice.
MichaelOR
30/05/2011
4:32:18 PM
Hi Jacqui,
Bugger about the finger pulley! Sounds like the conservative treatment is the go - and you still keep the option of surgery later if unfortunately needed.
Hopefully you can get back onto the wall (less steep) and still train using your other fingers once the splint is gone. That way you won't lose too much condition.
Good luck!
Michael
climbingjac
30/05/2011
4:45:11 PM
Cheers all, a very useful thread!
davepalethorpe
30/05/2011
7:07:02 PM
On 30/05/2011 climbingjac wrote:
>Cheers all, a very useful thread!

What?? Can we delete this thread? Chockstone is not the place for threads of this nature :)

salty crag
30/05/2011
7:54:41 PM
On 30/05/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>Those remind me of these classic items from Victorian era mental wards.
>The anti masturbation glove...
>http://museumvictoria.com.au/collections/items/249301/locked-glove-white-canvas-circa-191
>
>
>They have a few on display at the old Ararat Goal for the Criminally Insane.
Shite Neil! some long buried memories just came flooding back weirdly triggered by a thread on a climbing forum. I was a psych nurse at J Ward late 70's early 80's, very bad place at times.

Going to be hard getting a grip on the rock with that splint Jac, "pulling plastic" wherever you climb. Good luck with recovery.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
30/05/2011
9:01:41 PM
On 30/05/2011 salty crag wrote:
>Going to be hard getting a grip on the rock with that splint Jac, "pulling
>plastic" wherever you climb.

Hmm, I don't know about that...
It looks like a wicked free climbers version of a Leeper cam hook to me!
Heh, heh, heh.

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 74
There are 74 messages in this topic.

 

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