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 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 39
finger injury
7:22:25 AM
hi rich, how are you? depends on the site and the injury. some taping can be very therapeutic and have minimal propensity to cause injury somewhere else eg taping your knee if you have lateral patella tracking syndrome. Taping your ankle is another example. when taping is done the right way, you can support most joints along as it is not been required to load maximally. or for that matter anywhere near maximal. more moderate loading over a longer period is easier to handle. hence fingers are VERY problematic. If you do it tight enough to support any given tissue, you would have to take it off after minute or two because you will have cut off the blood supply; knees and weight lifters for instance.

elbows are controversial. People still wear braces etc to offset loading along the forearm muscles and into the tendinous insertion (golfers or tennis elbow). And there is no doubt that it can give relief. Again, it depends on the condition, tendinitis or tendinosis, and how the condition arose in the first place. Unfortunately practitioners still recommend for both because they are unaware of the differences. Or people just give it a go and see. Long standing elbow pain (more than 3 weeks) will benefit less (pretty much along a sliding scale with time) because the underlying condition is weakness, not inflammation. People say that the brace makes it feel better after a while of climbing: that is just the elbow warming up and is a normal pattern for tendinosis. You must address the inherent weakness not just offset the loading to a different part of the tendinous insertion. In fact braces/strapping will just delay the healing that needs to take place in the majority of cases.

So to answer your question, it can help and it can also hinder. Depends on the condition and the way it is taped.

I just re-read your question and I think you may have been asking about taping for general support of non-injured tissues. DEFINITLY NOT. All you achieve by this is not allowing the tissues to be slightly overloaded. That is how they gain strength over a period of time. Then maybe one day you donít strap as tight and sure enough you injure yourself. It is all about consistency. And the old adage Ďif it ainít broke donít fix ití is a good one. I can not stress this enough. Donít tape if you donít have an overt injury. You will get yourself into a big pot of poo. Train smartly and progressively and you wont have a problem.

Hope that answered your question..


10:08:30 AM
On 2/06/2004 vwills wrote:
>"Have a hangover" is your other excuse Rod.
>"Old" isn't an excuse for anything.

Get back in ya box:)
10:36:48 AM
hey Damien, what is happening with the finger?

2:55:57 PM
hey julian, yeah i'm great thanks. thanks for that, it did answer my question and i was talking about injured tissues but it is interesting to know the effect on non-injured tissues as you do see a lot people taping for 'preventative' measures.

1:10:13 PM
Hi Julian,

I didn't end up climbing last week. I notice that the swelling is coming down slightly, but base of finger is tender if I apply pressure to it or if I have to lift something with that (left)hand. I am able to touch my thumb with the injured (middle) finger without pain.

Cheers mate

7:45:48 PM
Sounds like that finger needs a good rest.
9:47:24 PM
Yeah. Stop typing, D.
4:13:40 PM
hi Damien. without seeing your finger i can offer you liitle more than the your physio. it sounds like it involves your A2 pully. you can try climbing but i would tentitively say you will probably not have too much fun with it. i will upload a picture here showing you how to tape to it, or least what it should look like after you have finished taping it. i have written an article on this site giving you some more info on this injury. if you do go climbing and it hurts, give dom a call. 0400 201 551.

and keep me informed, if you would, of how it is going.


5:00:29 PM
Thanks very much for your help Julian, I'll let you know how it goes



12:34:48 PM
i tried to ignore this topic for many months - it is now very relevent.
9:38:57 PM
have you seen anyone?


8:31:20 AM
I havn't seen anyone yet. I am going to give it two weeks of total rest then see how it goes. It feels a little better this week - but my few tests have proven I still can't use it fr climbing. I am quite phobic about doctors and the medicial world so i won't be rushing off straight away.

11:15:39 PM
Thanks for your message Julian,

The finger is feeling better now. However, it takes a while to warm up. It's a bit sore at the start of the session but gets better throughout. I am taping it.


2:44:26 PM
Two months after i 'pinged' my finger it still hurts a bit. Certain holds are still not a goer - anything open-handed using all fingers is a recipe for pain. How easy is it to 're-snap' a pully midway through the healing process? Will taping up stop this happening?

4:22:03 PM
Hey Neil when i did mine years ago it took about 6 months before it "felt" normal again.

5:16:36 PM
I'm climbing in Thailand this christmas and just got meself a nice sore finger from a two finger crack lock & crank move. Now the index and middle fingers are quite swollen and certain hand movements hurt (sideways stuff) but others are OK. There was no noise when I did the move, in fact I did a couple of other routes afterwards and it was only at dinner I noticed some pain in my fingers.

I'm due home in January so I'll chase down a Finger Doc (where can I find Dominic/Julian these days?) .... my dilemma is can I still get any more climbing done or is my holiday over??? There are not exactly any health professionals at Ton Sai, and I understand Thai massage (or any massage) would not be a good thing for inflammation? One American chick has given me some steroid cream. Hmmm! So I rubbed a little on the finger and the rest of the bottle on my forearms hoping for the best!!! ;-)


10:01:45 AM
Ice, ice bandage tightish and rest. that should hopefully help the inflammation. anti-inflamm cream may assist too.

hows the climbing been there? i'm over on jan 17 :)
3:06:01 PM
hey stu. cant really tell what you have done. tape it as shown in the pic above and that will mostly protect your A2 and A3. drop me a line when you get back. 0400 201 551.

how is it over there? what are your plans given the state of emergency????


9:22:49 PM
OK I will give you a call when I arrive home around 3 Jan. I would like to go climbing for a week when I get back, so I'll rest the finger now. At the moment there are plenty of other things to do here on Ton Sai (helping clean up etc.).


 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 39
There are 39 messages in this topic.


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