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Help ... my poor fingers!


Juffs

10-Feb-2008
8:44:18 PM

HELP!!! I have what looks like bunions on the first knuckes of most of my fingers. Mainly on the top ...except the index fingers.. here it is more to the sides.I crimp really hard. The fingers are sore when I flex them. Here is the deal ... what exercise can I do to help this after a hard session ... ie ice or flexing ??? PLEASE ... HELP!!!


dougal

10-Feb-2008
10:37:23 PM

Amputate. Stop crimping you silly bastard! The last joints on your fingers are the ones most prone to premature degeneration/arthritis/etc. Back off. If you grip the joint between your other thumb and index finger (other hand) and squeeze real hard does it freckin hurt? Yes? Stop crimping.


juffs

11-Feb-2008
9:01:07 AM

dougal ... ta for your advice ... I think?! It doesn't hurt like hell when I squeeze but when I apply crimp strength or flex. I actually wanted to know if there is some type of therapy I can apply after climbing to help recirculate or something. Let me guess ... stop crimping!?


tnd

11-Feb-2008
9:45:06 AM

Learn how to flat hand small holds. Crimping is real bad for fingers and even elbows. If you're strong enough to crimp you're strong enough to flat hand most of what you're crimping now. Sure, the really desperate small holds on a low friction day still need crimped, but apart from that you should be able to do without.


Juffs

11-Feb-2008
11:31:14 AM

Yeah ... thanks for that TND.
Will have to look after the old digits. Any exercises I can do as therapy for them? ANYONE???!!!


IdratherbeclimbingM9

11-Feb-2008
11:36:36 AM

Typing.

... I have been told that the best typing is posts to Chockstone.
Heh, heh, heh.


nmonteith

11-Feb-2008
11:37:53 AM

This is a medical problem - i suggest you see a specialist about it! You wouldn't get advice about heart surgery from a web forum... :-)

Julian Saunders ,who is based up at Blackheath , runs a pyshio practice specializing in climbing injuries.


Juffs

11-Feb-2008
11:45:22 AM

idratherbeclimbing: best typing?
Neil, thank you. But I am in Coffs Harbour ... you know, choss city (culture vulture) ... love the mag though ... keep it up!


Juffs

11-Feb-2008
11:47:16 AM

Actually, I am in The Bluies in Mid March. Will have to Google him!
Thankyou.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

11-Feb-2008
11:51:22 AM

>idratherbeclimbing: best typing?

You mean it's not working? (regardless of syntax).
Bugga.
... Shall have to see Julian myself!

;-)

Btw, I attended his 'session' at the Climbing Festival last Easter and found it very worthwhile.

[~> have not crimped the edge of the keyboard since. Heh, heh, heh.]

devlin66

11-Feb-2008
11:57:53 AM

try these links for some more information. But like Neil said go and get some preofessional advice to ascertain at what point your injuries are. Unless you know what you are talking about it is hard to self diagnose.

Pulley Injury Prevention

This next link has a treatment that I have used myself since seeing it. I have found great results with a finger injury I had and also found it really good to use on my days off from general climbing stresses.

Finger Injury Treatment


Rich

11-Feb-2008
2:55:30 PM

May want to check our this great book on climbing injuries called One move too many


Eduardo Slabofvic

11-Feb-2008
4:27:59 PM

On 11/02/2008 devlin66 wrote:
>try these links for some more information. But like Neil said go and get
>some preofessional advice to ascertain at what point your injuries are.
>Unless you know what you are talking about it is hard to self diagnose.
>
>Pulley Injury Prevention
>

That web page said don't climb with a hangover. I dunno about that..... I'm gonna have to think about it
for a while.........No hangover???????


dougal

11-Feb-2008
4:46:27 PM

It's not a medical problem, it's a joint problem and Julians an Osteopath not a physio. Plenty people get advice over the web these days. Doesn't sound like a pulley problem. Sounds like you're just hammering the DIPs (the last joints at the end of fingers) by crimping. Even if its the pulleys its the same approach.

Best advice was from prev post to ONLY use an open hand grip for a while and then visit the macleod site. Ice Ice Great advice.

qman

12-Feb-2008
7:26:13 AM

"one move too many" - is that the book with all the sick photos. including the amputated fingures with the tendons still in tow. arhhh!!

you will never catch a draw after seeing that book.


Juffs

12-Feb-2008
10:12:05 AM

Ta qman. I might just buy the book to look at the amputated fingers! Sweet!

Does anyone know what a good 'away from the cliff' exercise is for 'opened handed grip' strength. Ta!


ajfclark

12-Feb-2008
11:18:35 AM

On 12/02/2008 Juffs wrote:
>Does anyone know what a good 'away from the cliff' exercise is for 'opened
>handed grip' strength. Ta!

I've been usind a fingerboard to develop my open hand finger strength. Simple, small, relatively cheap and easy to fit into a schedule around other things.


OzA

12-Feb-2008
11:30:02 AM

You got a finger board already! Thought you were still looking for one?

devlin66

12-Feb-2008
12:40:27 PM

just stop crimping. practice on easier routes and warm ups by hanging every hold in the open grip position. I have been doing this since I've been back climbing and it has been great for my hands.


Juffs

12-Feb-2008
12:43:19 PM

>I've been usind a fingerboard to develop my open hand finger strength.
> Simple, small, relatively cheap and easy to fit into a schedule around
>other things.

I think I saw a review in a recent mag? Any one you would recommend? Ta!

There are 27 messages in this topic.