Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop

Black Diamond: Black Diamond "PosiWire" Quick-Draw Sets. (6 Pack) Top: Straight gate Positron. (Anodised Ink Blue) Bottom: HotWire Wire gate. (Anodised Ink Blue) Dogbone: 12cm long and 14mm wide. N/B SIX quick-draws AWESOME value IMO. $19.16 per draw...  $115.00
15% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

 Page 5 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 89
Author
The Tower - Ground Fall

nmonteith
17/01/2007
2:31:16 PM
Hi Lock,

I added the new bolt with permission from the first ascentist (it is Kent's route not mine).

>And as for the comment made "that secstions only
>grade 10". That dosn't meen it souldn't be made safe.

Not every route has to be safe. By your own admission people can die by falling 3 foot onto the
ground. Climbing is never safe no matter how many extra bolts get added. In the end the accident
happened because the guy saw the bolt, thought it was safe and fell onto it. I would hazard a guess if
he was looking at a ground fall he would have been able to reverse the moves rather than slumping
onto the bolt. Bolts sometimes give a false sense of security, especially on traverses where all sorts
of things can go wrong. See The Light is STILL not totally safe. It has substabial runouts in several
places. That is what makes it an exciting and memorable route which has become the crag trade route
(it saw something like 10 ascents on Sunday and another 5 on Monday). Always try and have more
than one piece of gear between you and the ground (maybe not an RP!).

>By the first assectionists own admission he was a tight arsed student
>when he bolted this area. And the lack of proper modern bolts was more
>a cast saving exersise and an exersise in tradition. Does that mean the
>manky antiquated bolts will be replaced?

The bolts are bomber modern glue-ins. Glue in carrots are tried and tested at hundred of crags in
Australia. Just because someone doesn't know not to use wire-gates doesn't mean they are bad. Stop
the hysteria and get a grip on reality mate!

>I tightened one nut two turns today, giving me 2.5 threads in the nut. It had a fixed key hole hanger
>too. Shitty!!!

That bolt is ok once it gets tightened up (its a classic case of a bolt that gets diagonall falls - regulary -
which un-screws it). The bolt is also less than 2m above another bolt (one of the a dreaded glue in
carrots!!).

Apart from some of the stingy single bolt lower-offs (all fixed now), the bolts at The Tower are all good.
They are a darn sight better than most routes on Taipan, Bundaleer and other famous Gramps crags.
airhead
17/01/2007
4:51:06 PM
Just back at work & noticed the response on this incident. Thanks for all the well wishes. Recovering well & mainly just a dented ego now & keen to be back on rock.

I was blown away by the responses of lock, the bomb & the good doctor & the dedicated emergency services guys for getting me out of there so quickly & with a minimum of pain.

Also wonderful to see your collective passion for reviewing safety. Lots of useful takeaways for me from all your notes
- do grades where I don't have to rely on dogging so much.
- no wire gates in bolt plates.
- back up the fixed gear with clustered trad where possible

Big hugs to all (in a manly way of course)

nmonteith
17/01/2007
5:00:09 PM
Glad your ok. I hope Locky frames the broken RP he hammered out of the crack!

muki
28/01/2007
10:55:02 PM
Glad to hear your doing so well AH, many in your situation would be in a bag waiting for pick up.
I'm happy that your karma ,good luck, and that RP had somthing else to say about it.
keep on rocking man, look forward to seeing you out on the cliffs soon. the bomb

IdratherbeclimbingM9
31/01/2007
11:20:57 AM
On 17/01/2007 airhead wrote:
>Just back at work & noticed the response on this incident. Thanks for all
>the well wishes. Recovering well & mainly just a dented ego now & keen
>to be back on rock.
>
>I was blown away by the responses of lock, the bomb & the good doctor
>& the dedicated emergency services guys for getting me out of there so
>quickly & with a minimum of pain.
>
>Also wonderful to see your collective passion for reviewing safety. Lots
>of useful takeaways for me from all your notes
>- do grades where I don't have to rely on dogging so much.
>- no wire gates in bolt plates.
>- back up the fixed gear with clustered trad where possible
>
>Big hugs to all (in a manly way of course)

Excellent news to hear you are doing well, and looking forward to continueing your climbing career.
It is also good to hear thanks to all those involved in the rescue. Like firefighters, they are often unsung heroes and deserve our support.
Thanks for taking the time to register to Chockstone and posting a reply airhead.

If you have the time and inclination perhaps you might like to do an appraisal of the incident like a 'cautionary tale' for Rock Mag, / or Crux Mag, / or Chockstone; ... as it is always good to learn directly from the experience of others, particularly if it ends up negating someone coming to harm.
Lucas Trihey
6/02/2007
11:20:04 AM
airhead did a report for the AAR which will hopefully be the cautionary tale you've asked about
M9iswhere... (thanks airhead!). http://www.accidentregister.info
Lucas

>If you have the time and inclination perhaps you might like to do an appraisal of the incident like a
'cautionary tale' for Rock Mag, / or Crux Mag, / or Chockstone; ... as it is always good to learn directly
from the experience of others, particularly if it ends up negating someone coming to harm.

airhead
2/04/2007
2:22:13 PM
The cautionary tale now appears in Rock no 70. As for the AAR report, it is my take flavoured by your sage comments on this forum.

muki
2/04/2007
2:48:23 PM
I also saw a mention of it in the latest Crux mag.
Glad to see you're OK Brent. the bomb

cool hand lock
22/06/2007
11:33:33 PM
What's crux mag?

 Page 5 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 89
There are 89 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints