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19-Aug-2016 4:44:32 PM
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From earlier this year, but didn't see anything on Chocky about it. Makes for an interesting read - good for them for getting out there and having a crack - but makes me want to sentence them all to a 1-year apprenticeship with a crusty old tradster.
http://unswoc.org/wordpress/2016/03/30/trip-report-bellbird-wall/
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19-Aug-2016 6:29:04 PM
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What were they climbing? A mud pile?
For a popular route, I'm fairly sure you can trust the abseil anchor is placed in the correct spot. Thereby abseiling where somebody else has already knocked off all the shit.
With all that choss, it almost sounds like they were climbing in the Blue Mountains...
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19-Aug-2016 7:12:00 PM
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That was bizarre, I don't get why they did that funky abseil setup or why the guy was prusiking up the rope. Glad they're ok though.
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19-Aug-2016 7:35:57 PM
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Did the route a couple of days after this happened - there was still some of the slings etc. left down there after the rescue.
That bit about the second rap baffled me, if you read the guide it tells you that 2 raps get you to the bottom and then you need to walk left to start the route.
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19-Aug-2016 7:57:14 PM
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I love a good university club trip report. Bad luck just seems to follow them around.
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19-Aug-2016 8:09:04 PM
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My 10c worth:-
+ They had a rescue blanket (I need to get one) and prusiks and phone reception
+ people could prusik
+ a few people were able to get out in case the phone didn't work (big group +ve)
- wandered off the descent route, to ground that hadn't been cleaned
- didn't recognise this could be a major problem
- big group means more chance of rockfall (big group -ve)
- not scared enuff to hide under something if there was any chance of rockfall
what were the injuries and outcome?
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21-Aug-2016 10:56:40 AM
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Wandering right might have been easier (just a suggestion)
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22-Aug-2016 8:59:43 AM
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On 19/08/2016 mikllaw wrote:
>what were the injuries and outcome?
Sounds like the back injury was potentially serious - while the injured woman felt able to climb and wanted to climb out, she was later "unable to move" and in a lot of pain - paramedics gave her morphine on extraction the next day. I wondered initially if they might have overreacted and should have tried to climb out if the injured party wanted to - but this could have been much more serious if she'd been unable to continue once they were on the route, or injured herself further. If they felt it was the right call to ask for help, it probably was.
Their club might need to up their insurance... http://unswoc.org/wordpress/2016/06/19/warrumbungled-bloodied-t-shirt-mars-bar/
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22-Aug-2016 11:17:41 AM
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On 19/08/2016 Zarb wrote:
>I love a good university club trip report. Bad luck just seems to follow them around.
Agree with you bro, 'cept the part about bad luck, as that TR read to me like a numpty fiasco.
Some WTF's.
Only feeding one rope into an abseil device on double-rope abseils?
Concern about fixed abseil stations of double ring bolts on multipitch that might not reach the next abseil point, or the ground? Did they think they were still in the gym??
Given that concern and then throwing in a 5 m traverse to effectively shorten up their rope by 5m to still achieve objective doesn't add further uncertainty to the outcome?
2nd abseiler then being 'off-line' and facing a pendulum from the newly unclipped re-directional? Yet they discussed the course of action they pursued beforehand?? Shared ignorance isn't good discussion even with a firemans backup!
Not knowing about rope stretch when prussiking? Nor the fact that it can be your friend if needing to abseil diagonally to an offset landing below?
Needing a 5 m safety sling and not having one? That statement, yet being in multipitch territory with plenty of climbing rope to hand that is better than any sling?
After deciding to unclip the re-directional and then re-position the rope (but not all the way back to the natural fall-line), and after seeing it trying to dislodge a chunk of ground plus preventing that by applying pressure on the ropes... They only move it slightly further not expecting gravity to still be a bitch?
All of them realised the area was "full of loose rocks" yet the prussiker still dislodged one (due diligence?), and the victim hadn't taken the precaution of being out of any potential firing line?
(Prussiker also prolly hadn't allowed for the rope he was prussiking to dislodge something onto him!)
From the TR.
>"From the beginning we went down that second abseil, all the way throughout Wen Jun’s prussiking up process, we did realise the area is full of loose rocks. These rocks can look pretty solid, until you touch it and it will collapse. I can remember different sizes of rocks fell off from time to time, from tiny pebbles like m&m's to as big as my birthday cakes (which are usually big). We always gave warnings and manage to avoided most of it. And we weren’t too concerned about it especially since we’re all standing under a tiny ledge that sticks out and protects us from rock falls, and this comfort zone took away our awareness."
"took away our awareness" ??
The fellow who "had the most knowledge and experience of the area" made some very dodgy decisions which shows how well he sandbagged the others, first by redirecting a straight forward abseil and later dislodging the offending rock onto people below.
No bad luck in that.
>"In summary of the down side, the whole epic day was a combination of pure accident but also a little lack of awareness of the terrain. The rock fall was an accident, however we shouldn’t have hang around either knowing the area is open to rock fall risk."
No accident about inexperience and poor decision making.
No bad luck.
But everything is OK because they are a Uni Club and that counts for something don't it, like it's more important to fine someone for their stupid action and contribute to the drinking fund?
They could do with a good TR re-write (ala bl@ke's Ozy style), by bro's simey an ODH if they are serious about
>"There are a series of challenges and lessons we’ve learned through our attempt to do Bellbird’s multipitch, and we hope this can be useful to raise safety awareness for ours and others future trips."
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22-Aug-2016 11:28:53 AM
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On 21/08/2016 jrc wrote:
>Wandering right might have been easier (just a suggestion)
Do you mean at the 2nd rap anchor, half way down? My read is that they ended up at the P1 anchor, which is 5m left of the rap anchor. It's narrow enough and loose enough that I can see the aversion to trying to adjust their position.
When I did BW I raided the old rope cupboard, left a static from the rap anchor to the top of P1, then left an old dynamic to rap beside P1. The static also extended up above the rap anchor to a tree so that we were safe while getting set up on the edge - the rap anchor itself is quite exposed. That way we had a retreat available if required. For a large group it'd also mean we could be starting up P1 while people were still descending beside it. Downside was rapping on a single for the 1st pitch, but an 11mm static has plenty of friction.
On the way out I tied the two rap ropes together when I reached the top of P1, and then hauled the lot once we topped out. That was good for a pump, but it'd be easy enough to rig a haul system if I'd had too much trouble. It's close enough to the car that even carrying three ropes between the two of us wasn't an issue.
Admittedly I had the advantage of a cupboard full of ropes that are too old to trust on lead, but are still more than good enough for abseil or toprope, but I'd be surprised if the club didn't have those as well.
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23-Aug-2016 1:06:29 PM
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A few WTFs there, but kind of expected as many low graded, easily-accessed, ring-bolted routes seem to attract that kind of bad luck
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23-Aug-2016 3:49:30 PM
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What doesn't kill ya makes ya stronger..only difference from that episode and yesteryear is the internets ie. means you can share the story..lifes a circle and a few to many glass houses and short memories me thinks happening here
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23-Aug-2016 5:13:56 PM
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On 23/08/2016 rodw wrote:
>What doesn't kill ya makes ya stronger..only difference from that episode
>and yesteryear is the internets ie. means you can share the story..lifes
>a circle and a few to many glass houses and short memories me thinks happening
>here
Hey Rod they were reckless.
I have never done anything without the utmost planning, deliberate consideration and thoughtfulness.
Never broke anything or suffered major head trauma on the weekend, slipping up.;)
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24-Aug-2016 10:05:18 AM
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On 23/08/2016 Keenas wrote:
>A few WTFs there, but kind of expected as many low graded, easily-accessed, ring-bolted routes seem to attract that kind of bad luck inexperienced climber.
Fixed that for you?
On 23/08/2016 rodw wrote:
>What doesn't kill ya makes ya stronger..only difference from that episode and yesteryear is the internets ie. means you can share the story..lifes a circle and a few to many glass houses and short memories me thinks happening here
Hmm, yesteryear...
As one who survived being a self taught climber hunting an apprenticeship wherever I could find it, I think there are more differences than that.
Sure internet shares the story with a wider audience and very quickly at that, but self reliant resilience in outdoor pursuits was a different culture back then. Proof being that many similar routes at that time were explored / established ground up, and retreats, or nights out on small ledges, often went with the territory... Those were skills that also became necessarily learnt!
I tend to agree with DD, inasmuch as their combined logic was wide of the mark at times.
They had an unexpected adventure, and it will either make them stronger or put them off adventures altogether...
It is also obvious to me that simply having gear, physical ability, and a base skill-set isn't enough sometimes; as an analytical mind, persevering attitude, diligence in doing background research and a realistic appreciation of ones limitations, also goes a long way towards successful outcomes, case in point being ww&s's post ...
>they were reckless.
>I have never done anything without the utmost planning, deliberate consideration and thoughtfulness.
>Never broke anything or suffered major head trauma on the weekend, slipping up.;)
Hehx3
That party returned and are now safer.
I hope they continue to enjoy the pleasures that climbing can give.
I wish the young lass a speedy recovery from her injuries, and as a climber I thank the rescue personnel involved in their adventure for a job well done.
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24-Aug-2016 10:45:47 AM
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On 23/08/2016 Keenas wrote:
>A few WTFs there, but kind of expected as many low graded, easily-accessed,
>ring-bolted routes seem to attract that kind of bad luck
You have low expectations bro.
rodw
>glass houses and short memories
Stop namby pambying to us bro. They f---ed up, simple as that.
Peeps who put up bolted routes on choss should also bear some guilt for attracting inexperienced shankers into that environment.
You bolt easy blueies routes don't you?
Yeh, looking at ya bro.
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24-Aug-2016 1:55:53 PM
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Yeah, I reckon mikl is to blame for this whole affair... :P
I reckon if I had to list up all the dumb things I've done over the years in climbing, I'd have to hand back my Safe Work at Heights card.
Apart from worrying inexperience, they show a willingness to try to analyse what they did wrong and improve. They do it for long enough, they really will improve - and can then join the godlike realm of real climbers and participate in chockstoning the noobs of tomorrow.
chockstoning [ˈtʃɒkstəʊn-ing/], verb: to rain vitriol on other climbers for not being just like you.
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24-Aug-2016 2:05:31 PM
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On 24/08/2016 Duang Daunk wrote:
> rodw
>>glass houses and short memories
>
>Stop namby pambying to us bro. They f---ed up, simple as that.
>Peeps who put up bolted routes on choss should also bear some guilt for
>attracting inexperienced shankers into that environment.
>You bolt easy blueies routes don't you?
>Yeh, looking at ya bro.
[Moderator edit: deletion of posted personal abuse] ... unless of course you climb like this young fellow, then we all should show you some respect.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Phl82D57P58
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24-Aug-2016 2:20:25 PM
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>On 24/08/2016 Duang Daunk wrote:
>>You bolt easy blueies routes don't you?
>>Yeh, looking at ya bro.
My specialty is short choss overbolted Sydney routes, Bellbird to much like hard work for me.
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24-Aug-2016 2:45:40 PM
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On 24/08/2016 OozeDumbHopeless wrote:
>[Moderator edit: deletion of posted personal abuse] ... unless of course you climb like this young fellow, then
>we all should show you some respect.
>
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Phl82D57P58
Suboptimal attempt at trolling bro, as even Mr A Honnold (respect), rehearsed that solo.
Grade (and gear), has nothing to do with it as f---ups can happen to anyone, though the inexperienced are far better at it.
- but, will they even try to improve their safety if they are totally unaware that they f---ed up?
If you too are going to namby pamby us, then come out of your closet and share your f---ups to support your trolling, cos I'm just calling it like it is.
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24-Aug-2016 3:11:43 PM
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F*ck me, if they'd just done what every other party has done and used the rap rings exactly as Mikl and I placed them, they'd have been right. Instead, they overthought it and got into trouble.
Glad they're ok and hope they give it another shot. It's worth it for the fun chimney at the top. (But not for Mikl's undergraded overhang section :-)
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