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Another Arapalies Accident


IdratherbeclimbingM9

10-Apr-2005
9:30:53 PM

Phil Box said:
>I`m almost to the stage of suggesting that critical cam placements should have long trad draws placed on them to prevent or minimise walking during a fall.

I reckon the beggars sometimes walk due to rope drag and then may not be optimally placed to deal with a fall.

On another occasion I had one walk during a fall and ended up slicing the sheath of the rope when the two became mixed in that event. That lead rope is 5m shorter now ...

Your post is an excellent suggestion Phil, and I will be paying more attention to it in future particularly when I am not using double ropes,


anthonyk

11-Apr-2005
12:06:02 AM

i generally cringe at the thought of putting a sport draw on a cam on a single rope, isn't it standard to put good runners on them?? unless you want to closely protect a move and put something else in later. i'm all for extender draws the whole way, even if you're clipping them short they absorb the rope movement a lot better i reckon.


anthonyk

11-Apr-2005
12:37:09 AM

On 10/04/2005 gfdonc wrote:
>As mentioned before, hexes are underrated IMHO ..

hehe the mantra of the trad hippy.. ;) (look out i'm on victorian territory.. gonna get chased out of town by a bunch of hex-wielding maniacs!)

i still reackon hexes are unstable sometimes, had them pop right out from a bomber chock a few times as soon as the rope went tight and pulled it sideways. beware of passive pro that isn't well seated!

kieranl

11-Apr-2005
1:20:43 PM

You also need to be very careful on climbs like Birdman which have traverses and diagonals in them. In these cases all of the gear can get loaded in a fall and all sorts of weird things can happen with pieces being moved about. Long draws or slings on gear and directional runners can be useful. I would use double ropes (but I usually do anyway).

There are 24 messages in this topic.