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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

Author
Where are they now? elbow tendonitus

ashfall tuff
29/08/2013
9:27:14 AM
Im hoping to hear from people that have overcome climbers elbow?(esp. deep elbow). ppl that have successfully managed the condition for atleast a couple of years, and are climbing regularly.. anyone?



I did have it managed and was able to climb a 2-5 hours a week for a few years. though stopped climbing for a year and suddenly got back into it forgetting the elbow drama's of the past.. have had the outside and deep elbow pain before though have got a tricep elbow tendonitis which is a newy for me.. def. the deep elbow pain is the worst.
gfdonc
29/08/2013
9:37:58 AM
Go and see Julian Saunders at Blackheath.

Big G
29/08/2013
10:00:43 AM
i have it - i just take it easy when it hurts, ice and ibuprofen, lots of stretching and massaging. do ing excercises that are the opposite of gripping seems to help
Wendy
29/08/2013
10:28:42 AM
Did you jump back into hard climbing/training too quickly? A year off shouldn't have hurt them at all! I expect you don't have tendonitis anymore, but tendonosis - which is pretty much what you get from not treating the itis and it becomes chronic. Tendonosis tends to settle down as you warm up so it seems somehow reassuring, but next time you start out cold again, it still hurts! Julian does have an article on it on his website.

I've had both on and off over the years. See someone who knows something about climbing about them. Generally, i've been told to stretch, massage (really hard bloody massage, it hurts too!) and do those exercise who've name i've forgotton, but essentially, you are doing reverse wrist curls over the edge of a table, use the other hand to help pull up a barbell (or bottle of wine or bag of rice or whatever is available) in the injured side hand, then let the injured side control the down bit. The idea being you want to work the tendon without working the muscle, because the muscle has gotten stronger than the tendon.

Do they work? Hmm. Don't know, but I just do what the physio says because it makes me feel like I am doing something about it! Also, don't go near campus boards, finger boards, reconsider steep bouldering or steep powerful routes for a while. Consider it a chance to diversify! Yeah, I know, I hate slabs too ... Vertical cracks tend to be ok too. Tendonsosis is rarely a must give up climbing problem, but is a pretty common thing to have to deal with. I don't recommend the popular strategy of take lots of antiinflammatories and ignore it!
steff
29/08/2013
10:39:58 AM
Wendy, any recommendation for a physio in Horsham? I struggle with the tendonosis since quite a while now and it really sucks. Julianís article in Rock and Ice is good, however I think it is the best if a physio is fine-tuning the exercises.
Wendy
29/08/2013
10:46:47 AM
I saw Shaun Casey the first time my elbows went - he used to climb and has a good idea of what your strength levels should be and what you expect out of your elbows. There is a physio who climbs at the hospital, but he's off galavanting around the US at the moment.

JMK
29/08/2013
1:33:53 PM
Ice after every climbing day or strenuous session even if it does not feel sore at the time as it usually takes a day or 2 for the pain to kick in. Forget the climbing gym and save yourself for the rock.

Ice is best for short term fix or periodic weekend climbing but does not do so well for climbing holidays.
Periodic acupuncture for a longer maintenance program.
Deep tissue massage - sore but may improve blood flow
Antagonist exercise and what Wendy says. Problem with Julian's exercises- what fixes the outer elbow inflames the inner and vice versa. So only works if u have only 1 of them.
Anti inflammatory only when required to dull pain and allow climbing to continue but in moderation as that stuff is Bad

Ashfall tuff
29/08/2013
1:47:19 PM
Ta. yeah I don't know if its an itus or osis. at this stage its only a problem after the first few climbs. once i've stopped for an hour or so its fine. Im going to keep climbing though have shorter sessions, lots of warming up. complete rest hasn't worked aswell for me in the past, tho it may have when the itus or oses was really persistant like painful doing chores weeks later.



I have the deep tissue massage on the agenda
Wollemi
29/08/2013
1:57:58 PM
Hah! A use for this doovalacky...

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=6&MessageID=25303&Replies=0&PagePos=0&Sort=#NewPost

Ashfall tuff
29/08/2013
7:22:23 PM
or this dooviewacky
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1nCBUiwetoY

shortman
29/08/2013
8:13:07 PM
On 29/08/2013 Ashfall tuff wrote:
>Ta. yeah I don't know if its an itus or osis. at this stage its only a
>problem after the first few climbs. once i've stopped for an hour or so
>its fine. Im going to keep climbing though have shorter sessions, lots
>of warming up. complete rest hasn't worked aswell for me in the past, tho
>it may have when the itus or oses was really persistant like painful doing
>chores weeks later.
>
>
>
>I have the deep tissue massage on the agenda

How old are you?

Ashfall tuff
29/08/2013
8:24:23 PM
On 29/08/2013 shortman wrote:
>How old are you?

30

Oh sorry you cant do much with that link.. It was a demo of armaid ( forearm massager)


shortman
29/08/2013
8:26:27 PM
Get used to it then.

:)

Ashfall tuff
29/08/2013
8:28:02 PM
I eat jelly. all the theories there

ajfclark
30/08/2013
7:45:04 AM
On 29/08/2013 Ashfall tuff wrote:
>or this dooviewacky https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1nCBUiwetoY

Now with clicky goodness.
gaetanr
30/08/2013
2:02:08 PM
I used the method described here : http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3614 to get rid of my tennis elbow. It seems to work as well for the golf elbows, which seems to be your problem.

There are 16 messages in this topic.

 

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