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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

Author
Chronic Inflammation in finger joint
SydneyBattler
30/06/2013
9:24:11 PM
Hey, so I have had slight inflammation and soreness in my left-middle finger PIP joint now for some years. I have been to see a hand surgeon, I have taped it, I have rested it, and I have read most things under the sun on pulley tears and other climbing injuries, but basically it never really goes away.

It gets better with rest, but never completely heals. I'm therefore fairly sure that I have chronic inflammation and its something I might have to deal with.

Does anyone else have this? I just wanted to gauge how common it is because a Dave Mcleod book I read hinted that it was far more common than even most climbers think.

If anyone else has it, can it go away? How do you deal with it?


BoulderBaby
30/06/2013
10:44:24 PM
Ice! Ice is good for joint inflammation! (Dave Mcleod's ice hand bath thingy)
To me, it sounds like it all just management now for chronic inflammation like you have, especially after seeing a surgeon!

What movements is it painful on? Extension, flexion etc, is there excessive movement in the joint?
I rekon when it's most acute I would be buddy taping it to the next finger, and climb more open handed.


freesolo
1/07/2013
3:36:48 PM
time to learn to climb cracks. give your fingers some rest. you may never go back to the dark side!

E. Wells
1/07/2013
4:23:51 PM
lots of people have it....just dont climb indoors and it will be fine.

Miguel75
1/07/2013
5:19:01 PM
On 30/06/2013 BoulderBaby wrote:
>Ice! Ice is good for joint inflammation!

Mmmm, I've heard Ice is good for losing weight, and teeth, but for inflamation; maybe not so much:)

Snacks
1/07/2013
6:04:59 PM
Have you tried "H-taping" as opposed to the cross over way? This is just taping around the finger on each side of the joint.

I find it works as it doesn't cut off circulation and prevents you from fully crimping on that finger.

Icing afterwards and using heat packs etc in the following days (24-48 hours after strain) to improve circulation.

jezza
1/07/2013
6:21:59 PM
Does this information help - http://www.drjuliansaunders.com/resources/feature_articles/stressed_out_fingers/
Just wondering how tall you are, and whether you have long fingers SydneyBattler?
lost tazmaniac
1/07/2013
11:15:53 PM
Yes.. I suffer from the same 'chronic' inflammation .. 3 years ago I broke my finger 'in the joint' went hospital, then doctor, then surgeon.. Then went thru a 'recovery' period ... Then a year or so later I bit off more than I could climb.. Grade wise and 'reinjured' the same joint.. So doctor .. then a scan..Tried 2 oesteos (not impressed), one physio (no results) .. Finally an assessment by a specialist and went back into recovery mode.. Now I have modified my gym work .. And concentrate on outdoors.. There is a gradual improvement but I'm not pushing it and thinking in months rather than weeks before I get finger back which can withstand serious punishment ...
SydneyBattler
6/07/2013
6:42:01 PM
This was actually all quite helpful.

It was at its worst when I only bouldered in the gym. It was an easy and convenient way of getting my climbing dose without too much effort during the university semester, but I have started focusing a lot more effort on sports over the holidays with surprisingly good results. I actually just got back from a week of Nowra sports climbing and even with abuse from South Central and other finger intensive crags its been holding up quite well.

I also have been taping across the proximal, PIP, and phalanx to prevent too much crimping and I think that has helped a lot. I tried ice a while back as was suggested, but I thought that was too much of a temporary solution.

Thankfully I dont think I have quite as bad a situation as lost tazmaniac, but it was also informative to find out just how common this kind of an injury is...


ryguy
7/07/2013
7:22:48 PM
I have similar inflam problems with my middle finger joints. I haven't been able to fully close them for a good 2-3 years. I remember jamming them a lot as a kid playing basketball or football. Often I give them an outward tug to try and loosen them up and promote blood flow, but it's also just a calming habit.

With a months rest the swelling reduces but never fully. Dr J's article is pretty insightful, maybe I'll add more calcium to my diet.

I've always figured it'd be something I'd have to live with until i'm old and can't use my hands anymore. An accepted price i'd have to pay for this sport.

Snacks
7/07/2013
9:13:56 PM
On 7/07/2013 ryguy wrote:
>I have similar inflam problems with my middle finger joints. I haven't
>been able to fully close them for a good 2-3 years. I remember jamming
>them a lot as a kid playing basketball or football. Often I give them an
>outward tug to try and loosen them up and promote blood flow, but it's
>also just a calming habit.
>
>With a months rest the swelling reduces but never fully. Dr J's article
>is pretty insightful, maybe I'll add more calcium to my diet.
>
>I've always figured it'd be something I'd have to live with until i'm
>old and can't use my hands anymore. An accepted price i'd have to pay
>for this sport.

Forearm massages can relieve tension that prevents the fingers from being able to close. I use the outside of one forearm to "roller pin" massage the inside of the other forearm. Oil helps... but don't try to go jamming afterwards. :)

There are 11 messages in this topic.

 

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