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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

 Page 3 of 7. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 138
Author
Blue Mountains - male climber injured after fall

jamesMc
24/10/2013
7:00:25 PM
Is he American? This begging for money for health care is common in the US.
JamesMc
lisaw
24/10/2013
7:06:50 PM
Now this has devolved to medical care, my 2cents, all of you paying private health care, remember the enormous public subsidy, and also consider such things as the public may do more with dollars spent perhaps just not where you want it spent?
climberman
24/10/2013
7:38:29 PM
On 24/10/2013 Wendy wrote:
>I had a whole stack of treatment under the NSW public system after my accident
>in 1997. Femur fixation (and removal 3 years later), multiple plates in
>my mandible and maxilla, bunch of dental work, plastic surgery for the
>tear through my lip to my nostril. Multiple days in ICU. I had no complaints
>about the quality of public health care.

fkn ell wendy - full on!

vwills
25/10/2013
6:05:28 PM
Having got over the shock of being referred to as a lady, and not having heard anything from Daniel rgarding gear I will add a little to speculation. I have tried to be kind as falling 30 m and having life shaken up is stressful and hes obviously still battling with coming to terms with changed circumstances.

With regard to the public health system in NSW there is no way there is a 3 year wait for treatment with osteomyelitis. I recommended Daniel contact his local MP if this is what he is being told when I pm'd him details for returning our gear (still waiting for gear to be returned, despite the rescue services and Katoomba police trying to retrieve it for us over the past few months). There is nothing like the local MP contacting the hospital CEO to get health administrators jumping.

Occasionally, unfortunately, I believe some doctors will try and push patients into having treatment in the private system by exaggerating deficiencies in the public health system. Certainly for elective operations such as a hip replacement or even gallbladder surgery there can be long waits in some area health services for elective procedures. For some conditions such as surgery for obesity, breast reduction or varicose veins patients must meet strict guidelines to get done in the public system. This is understandable. However for a nasty non union of an ankle fracture requiring fusion or amputation there should not be any issue getting treatment in the public system. So I am not sure what is going on.

The insurance coverage issue mentioned is I believe income protection. Daniel has obviously been unable to work since the fall. Income protection for climbing has been discussed on chocky before.

With regard to the cause of the accident I unofficially have heard the belayer had his device attached to the anchor, but not tightly, and when Daniel fell it got pulled out of reach and thus ran through. It would be useful if we knew what went on as a lesson for all.

Another lesson, I guess, is dont go climbing a multipitch with someone you just met by advertising 2 days before on facebook. Internet dating is tricky!

rodw
25/10/2013
7:58:00 PM
On 25/10/2013 vwills wrote:
>Another lesson, I guess, is dont go climbing a multipitch with someone
>you just met by advertising 2 days before on facebook. Internet dating
>is tricky!

Yeah true enough even family can drop ya, so be even more wary of strangers :)
technogeekery
1/11/2013
5:19:35 PM
oooh pointed comment there rod... :-)

Big G
1/11/2013
8:30:04 PM
Internet dating is tricky!
>
>Yeah true enough even family can drop ya, so be even more wary of strangers
>:)

I've never understood the willingness of people to be belayed by anyone they meet. I have never been beladyed by anyone I haven't been referred to our seen belay someone else. Plus I'm quite big so there is a bit of elimination of candidates anyway

E. Wells
1/11/2013
9:26:29 PM
I know its impossible to know anything with given detail but I would have thought that if the belay anchor was loose and shifted as he fell, it could only move forward therefore making brake position more possible?? I reckon the dude simply wasnt belaying and probably got a nasty rope burn trying to grab the rope....there I go again...such a wild imagination!!
Brendan
Online Now
6/11/2013
4:23:09 PM
New video from this guy with a bit more info at the end

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HDeyntvX6aI

shortman
6/11/2013
5:11:15 PM
Thanks for posting.

And dude who fell if you read this....keep winning the battle in your mind...if you have a shit day....start again tomorrow...already your courage is inspiring...which I know doesn't help like money....but don't forget it.
mikllaw
7/11/2013
8:12:47 AM
It's very easy to drop a second, most people belay with their hands in a position where they can't lock off a stitch/tube plate. the belay device is in an orientation where it doesn't generate much friction.

either put the belay hand palm down (where you can the anchor rope back) or (better) run the rope through a high piece on the belay, it cuts the loads a bit but also puts the belay device into an orientation where it works better.

or use a reverso/grigri/munter - tho Grigris aren't used much on multipitch (abseils) or trad (high loads on gear)
Nick Clow
7/11/2013
8:23:20 AM
Totally agree with Mike's comments.

Bringing a second up on a conventional belay device on your harness makes for a very poor ergonomic position (especially as you are likely to be sitting on the edge of a cliff, leaning forward to look down at your second).

15 years ago I had a slight shock when bringing a second up with a conventional belay device on my harness as my thumb got sucked into the belay device when the second fell suddenly. The rope running though the device burnt my thumb. The second fell a metre and a half more than they should have so it wasn't a disaster, but it made me reflect on exactly what Mike is saying and I switched to bringing up a second on a munter. A much, much better ergonomic position. A munter also happens to work very well (it sinches) in the event of a shock/surprise loading/fall.
JohnK
7/11/2013
1:05:06 PM
An interesting thread with lessons for all of us and a terrible accident - really feel for the climber who was dropped and obviously a life changing event - hope you recover quickly and sort out your injury.

Standard practice for me particularly when climbing with people I don't know well is to belay them directly off the anchor and with a gri gri.

Have always felt that belaying off the harness particularly on awkward belay ledges can create all sorts of issues if the second falls. Also if you belay off the anchors directly and set it up right it's easier to manage ropes, brake hands etc. and keep a better watch on things. An auto lock device like a Gri-gri also adds another safeguard.

Timfreddo
7/11/2013
1:28:40 PM
On 7/11/2013 JohnK wrote:

> An auto lock device like a Gri-gri also adds another safeguard.


... As long as you have the skills and equipment on hand to lower using that device if need be...
brendan
Online Now
7/11/2013
1:39:49 PM

On 7/11/2013 Timfreddo wrote:
>On 7/11/2013 JohnK wrote:
>
>< An auto lock device like a Gri-gri also adds another safeguard.
>
>
>... As long as you have the skills and equipment on hand to lower using
>that device if need be...

????the skill to lower a fallen partner with a Gri-gri? pull the handle, seems pretty simple. Are you refering to a reverso? there also pretty simple to lower a fallen partner

I pretty much only belay off the anchor using my reverso in guide mode, makes for quick and easy change overs, means i can be re-racking, drink, eat and ready for the next pitch. It is easy to escape the belay for rescue too if need be,
mikllaw
7/11/2013
1:54:20 PM
People have been spectacularly dropped on Reversos when people release them, once again it's just training but it happens.
In some cases grigris also release suddenly and drop people (once again training)
PDRM
7/11/2013
1:58:14 PM
Extremely poor form that his partner buggered off after the fall and hasn't been seen or heard from since if that's correct (as stated in one of those clips).
P
JohnK
7/11/2013
2:22:03 PM
On 7/11/2013 mikllaw wrote:
>People have been spectacularly dropped on Reversos when people release
>them, once again it's just training but it happens.
>In some cases grigris also release suddenly and drop people (once again
>training)

Could not agree more - if you don't manage your brake hand properly in any device you are asking for trouble. How many times have we seen accidents in gyms with auto lock devices - take a new rope, a beginner, and poor belay and brake hand management techniques and you are bound to have issues. The best auto lock device will not work if used incorrectly. The worst belay device (even the old hip belay!!) will work if used correctly.

Read this thread everyone - if you get your belaying technique wrong and your second or leader falls whilst you are belaying them a great day out will turn into a life changing event.

As I always say to new climbing partners on our first climb, particularly beginners - "I am putting my life in your hands....do you understand? If I fall and you don't catch me I will get hurt and could even die. Belay me correctly and most of all never ever let the brake hand go!"





BBSR
7/11/2013
4:28:06 PM
Can't believe the belayer ran away. Horrible piece of work.

Miguel75
7/11/2013
5:28:37 PM
On 7/11/2013 JohnK wrote:
>As I always say to new climbing partners on our first climb, particularly
>beginners - "I am putting my life in your hands....do you understand? If
>I fall and you don't catch me I will get hurt and could even die. Belay
>me correctly and most of all never ever let the brake hand go!"

I usually add in my best Mick Taylor impersonation, "if you drop me pray that I'm dead or no one will ever find your unmarked grave." Heh heh heh

If I were in Daniels position I'd be having very serious words with the belayer. Has anyone else here climbed with and/or know the belayer. I don't reckon a witch hunt is in order though it does seem pretty dodgy that he bailed.

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There are 138 messages in this topic.

 

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