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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

Author
Czech Trad Climbing - 150 Feet With No Metal Pro!

ajfclark
22-Jul-2015
10:31:48 AM
johny
22-Jul-2015
5:42:12 PM
http://www.tomadventure.org/en/tomadventure/
A bit of advertisement but if anyone wants to get guided climbing in these areas, this guy is super friendly and very experienced. I met him down in Tassie and climbed over in Adršpach a couple years ago with him. This place is awesome! Camping about 50 metres from the towers and 500 metres from the climbers pub. I will definately go back. There are bolts too, its not dangerous if you have a guide like Tomas. ~$100 per person all day guided climbing. I reckon if you are experienced with 1 or 2 days of guiding and you will be able to sort it out yourself for the rest of the trip. 1000's of climbs.
Colg
22-Jul-2015
6:56:49 PM
Don't advertise it. It's europe's undiscovered treasure ardespach Bohemia and saxony are all Awsome. All on knots and slings and all very safe.
gaetanr
22-Jul-2015
9:07:35 PM
It always looks badass to see someone climbing with only knots, but I always wondered if they actually hold fall. I have never seen someone falling on a knot.

Did you try taking a fall John ?
TimP
23-Jul-2015
12:24:42 PM
It looks like he ties a figure 8 with his mouth, just wondering which knots they use, will any knot work? It also looks like a combination of tape and cord. I've seen monkeys fist knot for pro, are these really used there?
martym
23-Jul-2015
1:28:24 PM
I've slumped on a monkey fist style thing, never brave enough to take a whipper, nor did I climb hard grades.. Czech Code is "moral" climbing, by which I think they mean "courageous", like have good morale.
I have never met a Czech climber who does high grades on rope knots... They usually say there's one hard person and everyone follows; usually to the pub.
The proximity of pubs to crags in CZ is awesome.
Colg
23-Jul-2015
10:56:21 PM
They use overhand figure of eights and tape knots as well as a new device called a UFO. I've taken a fall on the slings and a UFO and yes they do hold. The clip also shows him threading a sand hour. The sandstone is much courser than lets say blue mts sandstone so the slings hold better than here.
johny
24-Jul-2015
9:50:19 AM
On 22/07/2015 gaetanr wrote:
>It always looks badass to see someone climbing with only knots, but I always
>wondered if they actually hold fall. I have never seen someone falling
>on a knot.
>
>Did you try taking a fall John ?

I never fell on the knots. However, many of the climbs are protected by sparsely placed bolts. Especially harder (>18) climbs. There are regulations on bolt spacing and use of chalk. These rules are followed to the letter on the German side and not so much in Czech. If you are comfortable onsight soloing grade 18 it is safe. If not, it is not so safe. I was on many routes where a fall on a grade 18 move would be very bad. I protected harder moves with knots but thankfully did not test them. As was said, there are many threads (hourglass) that are of course bomber.

Go there. It is an adventure!

EDIT: I want to make clear that there are hundreds(1000's?) of routes that are easier than 18 and well protected by knots and bolts. I was speaking about hard climbs and going for it in general. I advise using Tomas as a guide on your first visit. He is the dude and well worth it.
johny
24-Jul-2015
9:52:20 AM
On 23/07/2015 Colg wrote:
>They use overhand figure of eights and tape knots as well as a new device
>called a UFO. I've taken a fall on the slings and a UFO and yes they do
>hold. The clip also shows him threading a sand hour. The sandstone is much
>courser than lets say blue mts sandstone so the slings hold better than
>here.

In my short stay I noticed a huge increase in ascents because of UFOs. Do you think they are cheating?

ajfclark
24-Jul-2015
10:24:41 AM
Are cams cheating?

Here's some pics etc of UFOs: http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=10426&nazev=ufo_-_soft_webing_friend_device
Colg
24-Jul-2015
9:44:49 PM
I've been going there for close to 20years and have climbed close to 500 summits and thousands of routes. I find that the harder the route the more bolts it will have. As for if the UFO's as cheating not at all. I climbed a grade 20 route in rathen in may that was put up 99years ago by Perry-Smith I didn't use UFO's but I did use Kevlar and nylon slings and rope as well as sticky rubber was that cheating? As Perry-Smith had neither of then. They are just a brilliant idea using accepted materials in a new way.
Colg
24-Jul-2015
9:51:36 PM
By the way I have some UFO's that I'm hoping to give a go in the blue mountains. Anyone wishing to give them a try is more than welcome to borrow them.

Macciza
25-Jul-2015
12:27:36 PM
Yeah sounds like it could be fun, keep us in the loop ...
johny
25-Jul-2015
1:04:01 PM
On 24/07/2015 Colg wrote:
>I've been going there for close to 20years and have climbed close to 500
>summits and thousands of routes.

I haven't climbed nearly as much in Czech but I am aware that some people there think the UFO is a little cheating. They are a massive game changer. There were some routes that had logged as many ascents in the last 10 years as in the previous 50 because of the UFOs. It is a bit like the invention of cams and some guys, like Henry Barber, refused to use cams. Personally I don't think UFO's are cheating. I actually tried using them but it was too much of a learning curve for me.

There is a level of technology that climbers make a choice to stop using. What Potter was doing with Freebase was probably insane but imagine if you had a foolproof BASE solution that would protect any fall... Dare I say, anti-grav boots... At some point all of the danger and with it, much of the adventure is taken out of climbing. Yeah so Perry used hemp ropes,etc. But 80 years later Burndt Arnold was onsite barefoot soloing, no chalk, grade 24s. So increase in technology does not mean that climbing has to lose its adventure. In fact it never has meant that. The level of risk some people are taking in mountain sports is as high now as it ever was. It is a choice if you want to use technology to kill the adventure.

I can see both sides too it. When I go back next year, I have not decided if I will use UFOs or not.
martym
27-Jul-2015
11:24:58 PM
Unidentified Flying Object.

Worst name for passive protection I can think of...
How are these cheating? If someone else ties your monkey fist is that cheating? How about using twin ropes? I didn't forge my belay device, cobble my shoes or even mine the magnesium in the chalk I'm not allowed to use... So unless I climb naked solo and only eat deer meat and pine cones - I'm cheating... Fckin Czechs!

There are 15 messages in this topic.

 

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