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Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 55
Author
Omiros, 7b fall

Snacks
25-Jun-2015
10:02:11 AM
How about this video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lua7E4bq_9k

It's not clear cut whether allowing the belayer to fall an extra 2, 5 or 10? metres would really help the situation. As the belayer, it would be a struggle *knowing* exactly what the best thing to do is in those circumstances. (Keeping in mind the visual perspective the belayer would have and not of the cameraman)

It's not really a case of right or wrong as I don't think people will know until after the fact as to what the best thing to do was and this isn't realistic as it can be a struggle for the belayer to see what exactly is going on with the rope.

Making hard and fast rules in these situations is unrealistic.
Marssan
25-Jun-2015
10:46:13 AM
On 25/06/2015 Snacks wrote:
>How about this video?
>
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lua7E4bq_9k
>

There is probably no video on the internet where the climber is more at fault than this one.

First he downclimbs a bit, says "falling", braces, says "ready", shuffles a bit, then launches. At anytime he could have checked where the rope was running, but didn't. Belayer couldn't have done anything to change the outcome. Try comparing apples with apples.


Snacks
25-Jun-2015
11:13:02 AM
On 25/06/2015 Marssan wrote:
>On 25/06/2015 Snacks wrote:
>>How about this video?
>>
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lua7E4bq_9k
>>
>
>There is probably no video on the internet where the climber is more at
>fault than this one.
>
>First he downclimbs a bit, says "falling", braces, says "ready", shuffles
>a bit, then launches. At anytime he could have checked where the rope was
>running, but didn't. Belayer couldn't have done anything to change the
>outcome. Try comparing apples with apples.
>
>

What's the use in comparing apples with apples, other than coming up with specific rules for specific situations that are only of any use if you are somehow belaying and get to have the perspective that the cameraman gets in these situations.

Though, maybe that could be the future of belaying? Flying one of those auto-piloted drones with a synced cam-feed to belay goggles to provide that truly optimised belay experience.
dalai
25-Jun-2015
11:28:15 AM
On 25/06/2015 Snacks wrote:
>The comment was kind of tame for chockstone standards.

I have asked politely if you could remove that remark regardless of your opinion that is was tame and still stand by my request.

Previously people have made similar remarks and Macca has taken offense then and by his reply above still does so please delete it.

jezza
25-Jun-2015
11:55:25 AM
On 24/06/2015 jayford4321 wrote:
>If he took that fall with a helmet is it still 7b or like 7a or something.

With helmet, it would be at most 7a-, or in the UK falling system a QSRT (quite severe, relatively traumatic).

Macciza
25-Jun-2015
1:41:29 PM
Well at least that video displays better belay technique then the OP vid . .
Despite the rope being at his ankle at the draw, so waist no more then 1m above it, he still manages to fall a healthy distance avoiding being slammed straight into the rock. Further you can see where the belayer gives way , adding a bit of length to the fall but slowing the rotation in the process.
All he could have done better is to have spurred him on better to make the move in which case he would have fallen higher and hopefully avoided the rope, or warning him about his foot around the rope, if in fact he saw it at all, as he probably figured the climber had all that under control . . .

Had the guy provide a belay like in the other video, he would have fallen less then half the distance, flipping over twice as fast imho . . .

PS In actual fact I simply scrubbed through the video a few times noting the sequence, (Im pretty good at that sort of stuff), and remembering the associated times; then wrote it out in one go and played the vid back to check for accuracy. By the way, I was junior MENSA, Opportunity Class, Selective High student. Like I said, its not brain science . . .

And whilst I am not shy about my cannabis use, as others also are about the sexual orientation, race, (dis)ability, politics etc, I have also lobbied extensively to remove the prejudice, stereotyping and discrimination that exist with regards to Cannabis use. But you come to expect that sort of stuff from Level 1 Rope Techs ;~} . .

Snacks
25-Jun-2015
2:00:15 PM
On 25/06/2015 Macciza wrote:
>Well at least that video displays better belay technique then the OP vid
>. .
>Despite the rope being at his ankle at the draw, so waist no more then
>1m above it, he still manages to fall a healthy distance avoiding being
>slammed straight into the rock. Further you can see where the belayer gives
>way , adding a bit of length to the fall but slowing the rotation in the
>process.
>All he could have done better is to have spurred him on better to make
>the move in which case he would have fallen higher and hopefully avoided
>the rope, or warning him about his foot around the rope, if in fact he
>saw it at all, as he probably figured the climber had all that under control
>. . .
>
>Had the guy provide a belay like in the other video, he would have fallen
>less then half the distance, flipping over twice as fast imho . . .
>
>PS In actual fact I simply scrubbed through the video a few times noting
>the sequence, (Im pretty good at that sort of stuff), and remembering the
>associated times; then wrote it out in one go and played the vid back to
>check for accuracy. By the way, I was junior MENSA, Opportunity Class,
>Selective High student. Like I said, its not brain science . . .
>
>And whilst I am not shy about my cannabis use, as others also are about
>the sexual orientation, race, (dis)ability, politics etc, I have also lobbied
>extensively to remove the prejudice, stereotyping and discrimination that
>exist with regards to Cannabis use. But you come to expect that sort of
>stuff from Level 1 Rope Techs ;~} . .
>

You expect anti-cannabis statements from Level 1 Rope techs? ...

You mustn't know many Level 1 Rope techs then.

Snacks
25-Jun-2015
2:16:55 PM
On 25/06/2015 dalai wrote:
>On 25/06/2015 Snacks wrote:
>>The comment was kind of tame for chockstone standards.
>
>I have asked politely if you could remove that remark regardless of your
>opinion that is was tame and still stand by my request.
>
>Previously people have made similar remarks and Macca has taken offense
>then and by his reply above still does so please delete it.

It's tame banter...

Pull ya head in. If you want to ban me for a period to feel empowered then so be it. Macca makes bold ranty pro-drug statements and there are plenty of people that could take equal offence to that.

I'm just having a polite jab at how long the rant was...

Furthermore, if Macca had such a lofty self-esteem as to not get embroiled in personal banterish remarks then I might think it inappropriate. But he clearly doesn't.


Isn't part of fighting the stigma being able to laugh about it? Doesn't really do much for the cause of pro-cannabis use if you're going to get paranoid about it being mentioned... kind of reinforces anti-cannabis stereotypes...
simey
25-Jun-2015
2:42:43 PM
Come on Dalai, I don't think this particular incident is out of order. I would have been surprised if Macciza hadn't had a laugh himself.
Chockstone Moderator
25-Jun-2015
8:16:35 PM
On 25/06/2015 Snacks wrote:
>On 25/06/2015 dalai wrote:
>>On 25/06/2015 Snacks wrote:
>>>The comment was kind of tame for chockstone standards.
>>
>>I have asked politely if you could remove that remark regardless of your
>>opinion that is was tame and still stand by my request.
>>
>>Previously people have made similar remarks and Macca has taken offense
>>then and by his reply above still does so please delete it.
>
>It's tame banter...
>
>Pull ya head in. If you want to ban me for a period to feel empowered
>then so be it. Macca makes bold ranty pro-drug statements and there are
>plenty of people that could take equal offence to that.
>
>I'm just having a polite jab at how long the rant was...
>
>Furthermore, if Macca had such a lofty self-esteem as to not get embroiled
>in personal banterish remarks then I might think it inappropriate. But
>he clearly doesn't.
>
>
>Isn't part of fighting the stigma being able to laugh about it? Doesn't
>really do much for the cause of pro-cannabis use if you're going to get
>paranoid about it being mentioned... kind of reinforces anti-cannabis stereotypes...

I am not dalai.

I do however remember warning you about one of your posts on a previous occasion.

The rules are here:
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Help&Topic=SPAM
Note particularly this bit:
Posts containing extremely offensive language, blatant racism, sexual harassment, or out right personal attacks on other forum members are unacceptable. On the other hand, light hearted banter, general cursing & expletives, and heated, confrontational debate is fine.

Some history of your recent posts on this thread:

Snacks 24/06/2015 4:31:01 PM
>Nice essay rant though Macca, was that a two-bong reply?

Snacks 25/06/2015
>Nice essay rant though Macca, was that a (edit) reply requiring some form of intermittent procrastination to make it to the end? (/edit)

Snacks 25/06/2015
9:36:03 AM
>It was inspiring to see such unwavering dedication, even if with the aid of mental enhancements.

I am of the opinion that your personal abuse has continued.
I am also of the opinion that Macca has not made "bold ranty pro-drug statements" on Chockstone, and any recent reference regarding that topic is due to your antagonism of him.

I also take exception to your attitude to Moderators on this site, though this is not my prime motivation for giving you two weeks time out.
Your user-id will be re-enabled on Friday 10 July.

No I don't feel empowered, just annoyed, as it is either time out for you or locking the thread to stop the sniping and bickering, and I don't believe the other Chockstone people deserve the latter.





One Day Hero
25-Jun-2015
8:45:42 PM
On 24/06/2015 The good Dr wrote:
>All very interesting conjecture, but how many of you have actually belayed
>someone on the climb in question?

Have you ticked the climb in question? If so, I think you win the arguement :)

The good Dr
30-Jun-2015
8:47:05 AM
On 25/06/2015 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 24/06/2015 The good Dr wrote:
>>All very interesting conjecture, but how many of you have actually belayed
>>someone on the climb in question?
>
>Have you ticked the climb in question? If so, I think you win the arguement
>:)

Have to dissapoint you there. Have only managed to fall off the route immediately to its right (Dianysos)

ambyeok
1-Jul-2015
1:30:29 PM
Your kidding me right, anti-discrimination druggie rights? Maybe people should lay off the pot and smoke some concrete. BTW you know what really shits me at the moment is those pram spots that have popped up near the entrances of supermarkets, etc. I mean, bloody prams have wheels don't they? When is someone going to defend my rights as a childless adult? I'm gonna just go right ahead, park in the damn things, and wheel in a shopping trundler carrying my latest fishing rod... that's my baby.

In an unrelated matter, someone said "and then when he's sketching that bit at the end you gotta keep...". If you wanna see sketching you gotta watch me climb, I thought the boy was looking pretty bloody solid. Sure a bit pumped and misread the rock and didn't find the hold he was hoping for.

I am however a bit worried about how the boys' bollocks were feeling at 0:44. Poor lad, big shame for anyone to have a trip cut short.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
15-Jul-2015
5:42:20 PM
On 24/06/2015 martym wrote:
>On 23/06/2015 Jayford4321 wrote:
>>In Oz grades what is a 7b fall?
>Around 25 give or take a character.

Hiphophooray martym reached the 1,000 post chocky milestone that day!
Foreezajollygoodposter anallthatstuff!

(A bit sad that he answered a troll post by J4321 on this occasion, but full marks for trying to help out as he does).

jezza
15-Jul-2015
9:44:30 PM
On 15/07/2015 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Hiphophooray martym reached the 1,000 post chocky milestone that day!
>Foreezajollygoodposter anallthatstuff!

Moderator, please delete post and remove user. He mentioned bottom hole, this is child friendly site.

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 55
There are 55 messages in this topic.

 

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