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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

Author
The Last Day - Angie Scarth-Johnson on Zona 30, 8b

ajfclark
22-Apr-2015
10:02:50 AM

The Last Day. Angie Scarth-Johnson (9) crushing Zona 30, 8b in Margalef, Spain. from Muérdago Films on Vimeo.

maxdacat
22-Apr-2015
2:26:44 PM
Did she not just turn 10 then tick 2 grades harder! I wish this happened every time I had a birthday :p
citationx
22-Apr-2015
4:50:33 PM
Look at the size of her. Every crimp is a jug...

pedro.c
22-Apr-2015
5:49:54 PM
On 22/04/2015 citationx wrote:
>Look at the size of her. Every crimp is a jug...

Why would you want to down play this girls acheivements? She's amazing. Can't see how those crimps would feel like jugs for her...particularly when they're another foot away for her to reach than they would be for you or me.
citationx
22-Apr-2015
6:12:42 PM
On 22/04/2015 pedro.c wrote:
>On 22/04/2015 citationx wrote:
>>Look at the size of her. Every crimp is a jug...
>
>Why would you want to down play this girls acheivements? She's amazing.
>Can't see how those crimps would feel like jugs for her...particularly
>when they're another foot away for her to reach than they would be for
>you or me.



Miguel75
22-Apr-2015
6:55:45 PM
"Yeah, there were horses, and a man on fire, and I killed a guy with a trident."

jezza
23-Apr-2015
10:10:39 PM
We’ll probably see more of this (i.e. prepubescent girls on harder, crimpy climbs).
- small hands
- excellent strength to weight ratio
- plenty of free time to train
- financial support
- flexibility
- made out of chewing gum and elastic bands, so don’t tend to get injured
(what’s the average age of a female olympic gymnast?)

Most of the above applies to prepubescent boys too. On the other hand, male power to weight tends to improve dramatically after puberty. It tends to go down for females (see below). There’s exceptions.

Also, there’s some things I’ve noticed that aren’t very scientific. Girl birthday parties at the climbing gym aren’t the same as boy birthday parties. The girls are way better. They tend to use their feet and try to get to the top carefully. The boys just climb for a bit and then muck around on the ropes like Tarzan because that’s more fun, apparently.

Pretty much all the young boys I know tend to be after instant gratification. My son and his friends do plenty of things, but in terms of fanatic dedication (ie they'll do it for hours without complaint), there’s only video games and reading. If he’s going to do sport, there’d better be other boys to run around with and bump into. There’s no way he, or any of his friends are going to dedicate hours of time doing something that doesn’t yield fast results, doubly so if it’s a solo activity. I don’t have a daughter, but it seems to me that girls are a bit different in this respect.

There’s plenty of exceptions to the above. I am sure there are 8 year old male, internationally ranked archers out there (that are also chess grand masters), and plenty of parents moaning about young daughters who won’t stop playing Team Fortress and who lack focus.

While I’m highly impressed with this young lady’s accomplishment, I’m more impressed by the dedication of older, heavier women (and men) who have jobs and/or families, and are still managing to climb hard (some of them on trad….)

http://jap.physiology.org/content/90/1/35
http://www.ausport.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0009/145971/Article_weight_training_preadolescent_strength_training_Narelle_Sibte.pdf
citationx
23-Apr-2015
10:40:49 PM
On 23/04/2015 jezza wrote:
>We’ll probably see more of this (i.e. prepubescent girls on harder, crimpy
>climbs).
> - small hands
> - excellent strength to weight ratio
> - plenty of free time to train
> - financial support
> - flexibility
> - made out of chewing gum and elastic bands, so don’t tend to get injured
>(what’s the average age of a female olympic gymnast?)
>
>
>***snip***
>
>
>http://jap.physiology.org/content/90/1/35
>http://www.ausport.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0009/145971/Article_weight_training_prea
>olescent_strength_training_Narelle_Sibte.pdf

Far out. Why are you down playing this girl's achievements? She's amazing!
I don't want facts or reality. And don't talk to me about perspective! There's always something that's holding someone back. That they can get past it is what counts.
I HOPE YOU HAVE TROUBLE SLEEPING WITH A CONSCIENCE LIKE YOURS!

jezza
23-Apr-2015
10:57:41 PM
An awesome video might be 'overweight bumbly who nobody wants to belay, with a big mortgage, crap job, drinking problem, and little regard for authority or personal hygiene overcomes the odds, trains up and climbs Mr J'.

rodw
24-Apr-2015
6:56:38 AM
I asked my daughter why she wasn't as good, her answer..."I started climbing at 10"..obviously she missed her peak :)

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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