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KP - what an entertaining crag. I once watched a guy rap jump off the top (ie go face first) with his figure-8 attached to his gear loop. Amazingly it held the first time. Not so much the second time. He lived. Mostly in hospital for the next few months.
On 19/11/2013 shortman wrote:
>Are you guys saying that this is not a good way to belay?
>I find that if you stand back a little further and out to the side the
>rope gets in the way less.
>Try it some time.
Please don't try it when climbing trad, as the outward loading on your placed gear will likely strip/unzip it in a fall-event; ... and if the top piece blows, then you will deck.
If the first piece is bomber for an upward and outward loading, then it will help mitigate the above scenario, but standing back as far as the belayer appears to be doing in the video involves angles and forces I wouldn't risk to one Jesus-upward-loading piece!!
On 19/11/2013 Cliff wrote:
>M9... I think you were had...
I considered that possibility but erred on the side of caution to reply anyway, due one never knows who reads these things.
Safe belaying should come before convenience belaying.
On 19/11/2013 Sabu wrote:
>I was totally confused at first but with the full story, oh man that's gold!
It took me a while to figure out how to word it appropriately so that it wasn't confusing. In the end just answering the questions raised by others worked better than anything I tried to write on the opening post.
The comments on the youtube video are worth reading too. I think some people here might have something to add to the discussion there.
On 19/11/2013 Mike Bee wrote:
>So the video is filmed by the belayer, and they've put it up on the net
>as an example against other climbers offfering (valid) advice and critising
>their safety systems?
>Wow, if thats the case, the ignorance is astounding.
What you guys don't seem to appreciate is that the belaying technique on display is considered best practice in Kweeenzlairnd.
Normal practice would involve lying down amongst a nest of packs and jackets that far back from the wall, with 10 to 15 meters of slack out, headphones on listening to the cricket, and rolling a cigarette.
It would play out something like this.
Climber say "O.K., climbing".
Belayer says, "What? ...... 'kin retard"
A little while later, Climber says, "Watch me. I'm going to go for it".
Belayer says, "What? ...... 'kin retard", whilst continuing to search for the lighter.
After the climber has gotten to the top, and the belayer is now ready to second, the belayer say "O.K., climbing".
Climber, now at the top, says "What? ...... 'kin retard"
Belayer/seconder, with a loop of slack dangling 5m below them says, "TAKE IN ....... 'kin retard".
Climber on top says, "What? ...... 'kin retard", and continues to look for their lighter.
You could probably voice over the video with the above dialogue and it would work.