Having been lucky enough to climb on The Rainbow Slab (although, certainly not that particular route), I can verify that the entire place oozes inspiration. The rock, the movement, the location, the history, the route length... Classic in every sense of the word.
On 24/06/2013 Olbert wrote:
>Without starting another helmet debate and I'm certainly not a helmet nazi
>but I can't believe she isn't wearing a helmet.
She actually says at one point that she was worried about hitting her head. The thing about deciding not to wear a helmets is that it's not rational one. People rationalise it but it's really about fashion.
On 24/06/2013 anthonycuskelly wrote:
>Is it just me, or is she going to get horribly tangled in the ropes if she falls on that?
Although she mentioned that possibility amongst others at the end, I doubt that would be her main concern if she fell off the crux. By the way, where was the crux?, ... as by the time she was well run-out she was on mantleshelves ;-)
I reckon with effectively one bit of gear (albeit one per rope), in a 25 m runout she would take a huge pendulum, and if a bit of rope-burn was the result then that would mean she survived OK.
Heh, heh, heh.
She is nineteen and to my mind relatively inexperienced*, even though she is obviously a capable climber, and also obviously well able to keep her mental state together in trying circumstances.
* ~> At about 30 years into my climbing experience, I once fell off the easy topout /mantle jugs on my pitch of a multipitch after a bold runout, thinking that because the climbing became easier I had it in the bag. In fact this was in the 90's in the Warrumbungles, and it jogged my memory that I had done something not dissimilar on Crookneck back in the 80's.
Both those incidents have left me with a much more cautious approach these days, and I reckon she should have tried to apply a bit of ingenuity at about 1:40 into the vid (where she gets off the slab onto the overhanging bulge), to get another bit of gear in...
I would not have called it 'horribly tangled' - not optimal but really only worth worrying about if you think you are going to fall off right at that moment; and if it is one of those moments then that is when you usually have to 'not worry/think about it', because it doesn't help and you need to focus on the actual climbing. The rope is sometimes best ignored . . . .
The same thing with the helmet debate for some people - yes the idea to wear a helmet is to avoid injury, but it is only relevant if you fall so sometimes its better not to wear one and simply not fall. Sometimes I decide to wear a helmet to avoid getting hit in the head with breaking holds or pulled protection . . .
The same thing with protection, maybe the hanging around to fiddle something in is too difficult and adds 'fall doubt' into the equation, and so it is safer/better to just punch out the finish whilst feeling strong, solid and invincible . . .
All said - awesome effort in lovely style; wish we had more like that over here . . .
On 24/06/2013 Macciza wrote:
. . . .
>The same thing with the helmet debate for some people - yes the idea to
>wear a helmet is to avoid injury, but it is only relevant if you fall so
>sometimes its better not to wear one and simply not fall.
That's one manifestation of the rationalisation that I'm talking about. On this route it's a good idea not to fall off when well out from the bolts but that's not a reason why "its better not to wear one". Feel free not to wear one but recognise that it's hubris at work not rationality.
I know that sounds a bit "holier than thou" but I'm not immune from it. I was contemplating at lunchtime why it is that I don't wear a light helmet when bouldering. If I was being rational about it I would.
On 24/06/2013 kieranl wrote:
>On 24/06/2013 Olbert wrote:
>>Without starting another helmet debate and I'm certainly not a helmet
>>but I can't believe she isn't wearing a helmet.
>She actually says at one point that she was worried about hitting her
>head. The thing about deciding not to wear a helmets is that it's not rational
>one. People rationalise it but it's really about fashion.
It might be about fashion to you but you can't talk about everyone else. What about soloing a route, is that about fashion as well? What choosing to put less bolts in a route than more, is that about fashion as well?
keiran - I meant it to be read in context with the initial statement. ie that sometimes wearing a helmet can cause one to have think about the danger when one does not want to and that the act of not wearing one allows unhindered focus on the task at hand . . .
It is logically illogical, and illogically logical - I guess it depends on whether you view a rope as 'half-cut' or 'half-not-cut'. A personal predisposition / preference . . .
ajf - Yeah guess a beanie counts - extra wooly for greater protection! Sometimes wearing a beanie or cap can save damaging an expensive helmet which probably would have been ruined whereas you can keep wearing the beanie or cap . . .
anthony - Yeah, but it's not that much of an issue . The firsttime its the grey rope but shes climbing pretty much stright over the gear on red which is what will be catching her their. Pretty much the rest of the time she's run out enough that there should be enough time to sort it out so there is no sense in worrying about it. She seems to almost given it a second thought through the ending but it looks like she figures 'stick to the climbing' - for me often it is best to simply focus on the climbing as much as possible in defining the 'risk' and that it is often best to just climb without regard for the rope rather then complicate and alter sequence body position etc just to get the rope running somewhere. In fact sometimes if is more dangerous to faff about trying to be safe with where the rope runs rather then just getting on with the climbing . . .
On 24/06/2013 rolsen1 wrote:
>On 24/06/2013 kieranl wrote:
>>On 24/06/2013 Olbert wrote:
>>>Without starting another helmet debate and I'm certainly not a helmet
>>>but I can't believe she isn't wearing a helmet.
>>She actually says at one point that she was worried about hitting her
>>head. The thing about deciding not to wear a helmets is that it's not
>>one. People rationalise it but it's really about fashion.
>It might be about fashion to you but you can't talk about everyone else.
>What about soloing a route, is that about fashion as well? What choosing
>to put less bolts in a route than more, is that about fashion as well?
To which I echo "Absolute rubbish". Are there any practical reasons for not wearing a lightweight piece of protective headgear? Except on a particular type of wide crack I can't think of any. If there aren't any practical reasons for wearing them then it's fashion. Tell me a good reason for not wearing one and I might change my opinion.
Of course I can talk about everyone else, it's my opinion and this is the web ;)
I grew up skating vert and always wore a helmet but never did when I began snowboarding. Circa 1995 I reckon I saw one or two people wearing a helmet boarding, and they were dumb looking ski helmets at that. One day I was unlucky enough to traumatize my brain and be told I had to wear a helmet, way before it was cool to do so. Fast forward a few years and Burton, amongst others, started making better fitting (& cooler looking) helmets; more pros started rocking them and their popularity started to increase. At the time I felt vindicated, and cool, knowing I was at the forefront of the trend;)...
I reckon last time I was at the snow 8~0% of boarders and skiers were rocking a dome...
I reckon a poll is on order... Why do/don't you rock the done???
On 24/06/2013 anthonycuskelly wrote:
>M9/Macca: Looks to me like for a fair chunk of that the rope's running
>behind her leg? Seems like a quick way to get flipped to me...
Yes, that is one likely outcome.
I think if she fell for much of that lead it would have resulted in a tumbling pendulum, with the likely worst case result being bits of bark scraped off, some bruises, maybe some ropeburn, a sore ego, and some knowledge gained the hard way!
I can relate to the gist of Macciza's post when one judges the fuel in the climbing tank to be running out; ... fear causes hesitation and hesitation will cause all your worst fears to come true.
ecause i'm not sure if its domes done? i do dome dont you?
traversty traverses def don the dome
a few years ago i had a bit of a swinger on a route i didnt know the topout to. it forced me to traverse about 4m right and i was a bit runout. luckily i had my dome, as i fell akward head into the rock.