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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 38
Author
Climbing and highlining the Totempole HD

ajfclark
11/04/2013
9:27:59 AM


Out of interest, would you trust the cam placed around 4:30? If so, how much?

shortman
11/04/2013
10:17:46 AM
On 11/04/2013 ajfclark wrote:

>Out of interest, would you trust the cam placed around 4:30? If so, how
>much?

No. Not at all.

Sabu
11/04/2013
10:38:34 AM
Looks like its a totem cam loaded on two lobes. Supposed to be good enough for body weight but I wouldn't want to fall on one!

Edit: In fact it actually looks like a three lobe placement which is supposedly more secure.

ajfclark
11/04/2013
10:44:33 AM
At 4:36-4:39 you can clearly see it's a #1 tech friend, not a totem cam.
simey
11/04/2013
10:46:52 AM
I don't recall needing to place any dodgy gear on that pitch. Looks like bollocks done purely for the film.
One Day Hero
11/04/2013
11:19:24 AM
6:40.............haven't even bothered to equalise the two bolts, despite slacklines apparently being so "forcey" that all the ones at araps need to be 3x15mm monsters.

Fuch off slackliners, you're full of shit!

shortman
11/04/2013
11:54:03 AM
On 11/04/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>6:40.............haven't even bothered to equalise the two bolts, despite
>slacklines apparently being so "forcey" that all the ones at araps need
>to be 3x15mm monsters.
>
>Fuch off slackliners, you're full of shit!

Actually I think you're way off the mark. There is no equalisation to be done on the line. They are only using one bolt.

ajfclark
11/04/2013
11:55:01 AM
On 11/04/2013 shortman wrote:
>Actually I think you're way off the mark. There is no equalisation to be done on the line. They are only using one bolt.

Exactly what he's getting at. At Arapiles they say they need 3 or 4 bolts equalised together to anchor the thing yet here they just use one.

sliamese
11/04/2013
1:46:01 PM
He jsut had the wrong size, is a good crack! smaller cams are needed for the top, green and red C3's are useful.

Thats a crap way of rigging the highline!! 8mm U's cant stand up to cross-loading like that, they bend!! It wasn't a super tight line so that helps lower the loads. When i rigged it we equalised both sides, and ran the back up onto some cams as well. You will see they had the line on one set, the rope on another.

Bloody oath having three bolts is justified, suggesting otherwise shows a pretty big lack of awareness of standard rigging principles, safety margins etc.
martym
11/04/2013
2:00:15 PM
7.10 - the guy is doing a tyrolian in socks & sandles. must be European.

What's the go with the second biner just dangling on the "safety" line? why wouldn't you clip both in? Judging by the anchor set up, "safety" isn't a priority...

Macciza
11/04/2013
3:09:33 PM
Hmm, not only a poor placement (as in final result) but poorly placed as in how it was placed . . .
One day Hero
11/04/2013
3:20:19 PM
On 11/04/2013 sliamese wrote:
>
>Thats a crap way of rigging the highline!! 8mm U's cant stand up to cross-loading
>like that, they bend!!

So if one were to wander down to the Tote now, they will find bent bolts? Or do you mean "they could potentially bend but may not have"
>
>Bloody oath having three bolts is justified, suggesting otherwise shows
>a pretty big lack of awareness of standard rigging principles, safety margins
>etc.

Aren't they banging in 14 or 15mm bolts? There's no way you can still be worried with 2 of those.
One day Hero
11/04/2013
3:26:07 PM
Here's the first hit I got on googling "slackline load cell"

http://www.slacklineexpress.com/loadtest1.htm

The highest force he measured (jumping on a tight line) was roughly 465kg............comparable to the expected force on a single climbing bolt catching a big whipper.

Slackliners don't produce forces as cataclysmic as they wish they did!

shortman
11/04/2013
4:25:25 PM
Right and wrong. Use the same math with a heavier person and longer than 31.5 ft line. Then decrease and increase tension and what do u come up with?

ajfclark
11/04/2013
4:34:44 PM
Here's another of someone tensioning a 40 foot line and jumping on it: http://www.nwslackline.org/453/primitive-tension-testing-results

His peak jumping on the line is 1100lbs ~= 4.9kN.
One day Hero
11/04/2013
4:36:20 PM
I have no idea, but I'm sick of people attempting to math geek things which are very easily measured, despite the measured values consistently coming in well below the geeked values. Someone will have tried a long line with a fat prick and a load cell and will have the results up on the interwebs. Go look and tell us what you find.

sliamese
11/04/2013
5:09:58 PM
http://www.balancecommunity.com/Spider-Silk-MKII

this is what people use for highlines, not whats in those tests generally. comparing apples with oranges aint too good...

found that, WLL of 13.4kN suggests anchors with ultimate design load of 65kn. I remember one of my friends lines was theoretically loaded to 10kN, over a 40m distance. looks to me like their testing nylon lines(cheap, for use in parks) not the longer polyester lines that a pulled much tighter.

I can show you a bent U on hobarts Organ pipes, didn't the missing link anchors get bent also? Hence my suggestion of 2xM16 studs or 3 x M12.

But your right in that your doing well to break them, and thats what the ropes for. I've only broken one tube-tape line that had 4 people on it.
tas alex
11/04/2013
5:19:27 PM
Edit - beat me to it^

On 11/04/2013 One day Hero wrote:
>On 11/04/2013 sliamese wrote:
>>
>>Thats a crap way of rigging the highline!! 8mm U's cant stand up to cross-loading
>>like that, they bend!!
>
>So if one were to wander down to the Tote now, they will find bent bolts?
>Or do you mean "they could potentially bend but may not have"

No idea about the totem pole but i bent an 8mm u-bolt on the organ pipes (mt wellington) high line when it was (temporarily) on one bolt during the rigging process - it does happen

Cant comment on oversize bolts but 3 normal climbing bolts is definitely not overkill
egosan
11/04/2013
5:28:49 PM
That is kind of cool. Webbing made from Dynama/Spectra/Whatever/Ultra-high-molecular-weight-polyethylene. You pay for it though. 10 bucks a meter. Gonna need a grant to rig that line from the Bluffs to the Organ Pipes. Hell even that line from Dunes to Missing Link was at least 500.
kieranl
11/04/2013
5:45:42 PM
On 11/04/2013 One day Hero wrote:

>Aren't they banging in 14 or 15mm bolts? There's no way you can still
>be worried with 2 of those.
The ones I looked at on top of Dunes and opposite looked like 12mm rod.Mostly petzl hangers which I think are 25kn but a couple of Singing Rock ones which are 22kn.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 38
There are 38 messages in this topic.

 

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