17 Down Under:
17 DOWN UNDER. "A celebration of moderate grade climbing in Victoria". 184 pages. 285 images. Father & son team, Steve & John Morris, embark on a journey to climb and photograph 50 of the best rock climbs in Victoria, grade 17 & under. Inc bookmark $50.00
Looks like Stanage Edge in the Peak District. Five miles of 30 mtr climbs. I first climbed their in 2000. I will return this year and be staying near Hathersage. Sort of an old word Natimuk. Cool one AJ.
On 12/03/2013 dalai wrote:
>On 12/03/2013 Robbie wrote:
>>Looks like Stanage Edge in the Peak District.
>Correct - Plantation boulders.
>Not to be Taken Away is a classic highball running diagonally up to around
>the finish of Careless Torque. Brad Pitt is on the uphill side of the same
>Impressive repeat, but typical for all the repeats done are now over a
>pile of pads. Unlike the FA by Ron Fawcett done without any pads!
Did Ron go ground-up when he attempted it, or did he check it out on top-rope first? Good effort by Mina doing a ground-up ascent.
Seems like a cool chick, joking about how "I might have just peaked" isn't something you hear on climbing vids all that often.
It does surprise me that boulderers are stuck in their funny little crash pad paradigm. If they'd carried a couple of foam mattresses down there and put the double layer of boulder pads on top, you could fall all day without rooting your knees and back. Why do half a job?
"When big Ron Fawcett climbed the first ascent of Careless Torque in 1987 at the Stanage Plantation (Derbyshire), bouldering mats were unheard of. Ron psyched himself up for the final moves of this distinct arete by jumping from increasing heights off the neighbouring classic Not To Be Taken Away...just to convice himself that he would actually walk away unscathed (this is known as 'old style' or 'old skool') "
On 12/03/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>It does surprise me that boulderers are stuck in their funny little crash
>pad paradigm. If they'd carried a couple of foam mattresses down there
>and put the double layer of boulder pads on top, you could fall all day
>without rooting your knees and back. Why do half a job?
Good call. Is there an ethical or moral reason why 2 mats is ok but 10 mats isn't?
It is actually quite obvious. It is quite tiring carrying in all of the filming equipment to record the ascent without loading up with extra matresses. Also, big foamies are not covered with sponsors (or potential sponsors) logos and tontine are not currently in the bouldering mega duplex pad market.
On 12/03/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>On 12/03/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>>It does surprise me that boulderers are stuck in their funny little crash
>>pad paradigm. If they'd carried a couple of foam mattresses down there
>>and put the double layer of boulder pads on top, you could fall all day
>>without rooting your knees and back. Why do half a job?
>Good call. Is there an ethical or moral reason why 2 mats is ok but 10
Yes. Mat stashing. That's not to say everyone who brings in 10 mats stashes them, but it does happen, and is much more likely to occur when the walk-in is long. Which goes with the 'don't build endurance whatever you do' approach to climbing :)
Other than that, it's a bit like most discussions on chocky. Most people want to be *seen* as well 'ard, even if they're a complete wussbag.
>Did Ron go ground-up when he attempted it, or did he check it out on top-rope
>first? Good effort by Mina doing a ground-up ascent.
Not sure but but I think he probably inspected it on the rope first. I can remember a few years back it being news when somebody (Andy Earl???) managed to do a ground up ascent ... makes me think it hadn't been done like that before.
I dont quite ODH's pad aversion. As far as I see it they've turned a lot of what would have been shitty 8 meter routes into excellent boulder problems. I would be pleased to see someone trying to boulder out something like serpentine or groove train over a big bouncey rubber castle and (as long as they werent trashing the bush) I cant understand how how anyone might think that wasn't an exciting thing to try and attempt. It only gets lame for me if having done the ascent they pretending the bouncey rubber castle wasnt there. Stephan Glowacz solo of kachoong with the big safety net just out of shot is an example that springs to mind.