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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 45
Author
Careless Torque

ajfclark
10/03/2013
7:40:46 AM

Careless Torque from Outcrop Films on Vimeo.

egosan
10/03/2013
8:56:00 AM
Nice one, Matie. Made my feet hurt.

MarcusfromHamilton
10/03/2013
2:13:30 PM
Trying to watch this in my dorm room but all the loud parts sound a lot like porn. Makes for an uncomfortable time!
Was a cool video though thanks.

BoulderBaby
11/03/2013
10:25:40 AM
Mina is such a babe.

pmonks
12/03/2013
6:06:31 AM
Nice video, though I wish her spotters would shut up - those accents are atrocious!

Robbie
12/03/2013
9:57:21 AM
Looks like Stanage Edge in the Peak District. Five miles of 30 mtr climbs. I first climbed their in 2000. I will return this year and be staying near Hathersage. Sort of an old word Natimuk. Cool one AJ.
dalai
12/03/2013
10:40:17 AM
On 12/03/2013 Robbie wrote:
>Looks like Stanage Edge in the Peak District.

Correct - Plantation boulders.

Not to be Taken Away is a classic highball running diagonally up to around the finish of Careless Torque. Brad Pitt is on the uphill side of the same block.

Impressive repeat, but typical for all the repeats done are now over a pile of pads. Unlike the FA by Ron Fawcett done without any pads!

davidn
12/03/2013
10:46:20 AM
On 12/03/2013 dalai wrote:
>Impressive repeat, but typical for all the repeats done are now over a
>pile of pads. Unlike the FA by Ron Fawcett done without any pads!

Anytime someone suggests it's soft to carry/use a bunch of pads, I just take one look at John Sherman's list of injuries from bouldering and it all becomes much clearer.

For the same reason, many of us wear seatbelts when we drive ;)
simey
12/03/2013
11:26:59 AM
On 12/03/2013 dalai wrote:
>On 12/03/2013 Robbie wrote:
>>Looks like Stanage Edge in the Peak District.
>
>Correct - Plantation boulders.
>
>Not to be Taken Away is a classic highball running diagonally up to around
>the finish of Careless Torque. Brad Pitt is on the uphill side of the same
>block.
>
>Impressive repeat, but typical for all the repeats done are now over a
>pile of pads. Unlike the FA by Ron Fawcett done without any pads!

Did Ron go ground-up when he attempted it, or did he check it out on top-rope first? Good effort by Mina doing a ground-up ascent.


Eduardo Slabofvic
12/03/2013
11:34:55 AM
Ron would have done it on his way home from a 12 hour shift down the pit
dalai
12/03/2013
11:43:21 AM
On 12/03/2013 simey wrote:
>Did Ron go ground-up when he attempted it, or did he check it out on top-rope
>first? Good effort by Mina doing a ground-up ascent.

Doubt Ron would have previewed on a rope. Read recently he tried the lob a few times to figure out how high he could fall from and still walk away...
One Day Hero
12/03/2013
11:54:16 AM
Seems like a cool chick, joking about how "I might have just peaked" isn't something you hear on climbing vids all that often.

It does surprise me that boulderers are stuck in their funny little crash pad paradigm. If they'd carried a couple of foam mattresses down there and put the double layer of boulder pads on top, you could fall all day without rooting your knees and back. Why do half a job?
dalai
12/03/2013
12:02:52 PM
On 12/03/2013 dalai wrote:
>
>Doubt Ron would have previewed on a rope. Read recently he tried the lob
>a few times to figure out how high he could fall from and still walk away...

Actually took the lob off the neighbouring Not to be Taken away and not Careless Torque. No mention of Ron using a rope, only most subsequent repeats.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=33955

"When big Ron Fawcett climbed the first ascent of Careless Torque in 1987 at the Stanage Plantation (Derbyshire), bouldering mats were unheard of. Ron psyched himself up for the final moves of this distinct arete by jumping from increasing heights off the neighbouring classic Not To Be Taken Away...just to convice himself that he would actually walk away unscathed (this is known as 'old style' or 'old skool') "


nmonteith
12/03/2013
12:02:57 PM
On 12/03/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>It does surprise me that boulderers are stuck in their funny little crash
>pad paradigm. If they'd carried a couple of foam mattresses down there
>and put the double layer of boulder pads on top, you could fall all day
>without rooting your knees and back. Why do half a job?

Good call. Is there an ethical or moral reason why 2 mats is ok but 10 mats isn't?

The good Dr
12/03/2013
12:19:36 PM
It is actually quite obvious. It is quite tiring carrying in all of the filming equipment to record the ascent without loading up with extra matresses. Also, big foamies are not covered with sponsors (or potential sponsors) logos and tontine are not currently in the bouldering mega duplex pad market.

Eduardo Slabofvic
12/03/2013
12:28:42 PM
What about a single blow up one, with a small, but incredibly noisy compressor? The compressor could even drown out all the 徹h yeah白s and 鉄end it白s and 田知on白s.
climberman
12/03/2013
1:11:21 PM

davidn
12/03/2013
1:19:40 PM
On 12/03/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>On 12/03/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>>It does surprise me that boulderers are stuck in their funny little crash
>>pad paradigm. If they'd carried a couple of foam mattresses down there
>>and put the double layer of boulder pads on top, you could fall all day
>>without rooting your knees and back. Why do half a job?
>
>Good call. Is there an ethical or moral reason why 2 mats is ok but 10
>mats isn't?

Yes. Mat stashing. That's not to say everyone who brings in 10 mats stashes them, but it does happen, and is much more likely to occur when the walk-in is long. Which goes with the 'don't build endurance whatever you do' approach to climbing :)

Other than that, it's a bit like most discussions on chocky. Most people want to be *seen* as well 'ard, even if they're a complete wussbag.
Dave J
12/03/2013
1:45:22 PM
On 12/03/2013 simey wrote:

>Did Ron go ground-up when he attempted it, or did he check it out on top-rope
>first? Good effort by Mina doing a ground-up ascent.
>

Not sure but but I think he probably inspected it on the rope first. I can remember a few years back it being news when somebody (Andy Earl???) managed to do a ground up ascent ... makes me think it hadn't been done like that before.

I dont quite ODH's pad aversion. As far as I see it they've turned a lot of what would have been shitty 8 meter routes into excellent boulder problems. I would be pleased to see someone trying to boulder out something like serpentine or groove train over a big bouncey rubber castle and (as long as they werent trashing the bush) I cant understand how how anyone might think that wasn't an exciting thing to try and attempt. It only gets lame for me if having done the ascent they pretending the bouncey rubber castle wasnt there. Stephan Glowacz solo of kachoong with the big safety net just out of shot is an example that springs to mind.
Chalkischeap
12/03/2013
1:52:49 PM
Surely Mr Glowacz could solo Kachoong confidently ??? How did he rig it?

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 45
There are 45 messages in this topic.

 

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