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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

 Page 2 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 67
Author
Something's Burning E9 7a
One Day Hero
6/09/2012
6:27:10 PM
On 6/09/2012 Macciza wrote:
>Oh really, well I was close on India and Hairline at one stage and reckon
>I could get back there - 28E - if I really tried . . .
>And the step from 28 to 28R/X probably would not be too hard for me, given
>my record . . .

Well mate, make sure to give me a yell when you've achieved step one of that plan. I will then offer a full retraction/apology/arsekiss :)

>And considering I've already probably pushed out E6/7 6b/6c I don't think
>it is out of the question . . .

That statement is silly, and is what I was talking about to begin with. Go to the U.K., lead a bunch of E7 6c's, then talk all you like. Until you do that, you're just guessing like everyone else is.
One Day Hero
6/09/2012
6:35:33 PM
On 6/09/2012 anthonycuskelly wrote:
>I dunno, I'd rather jump straight in somewhere that might challenge me
>but be doable

So you don't even warm up when you first go to a new continent? Just straight onto a route which you've perfectly calculated to be exactly at your limit..............interesting (and also bullshit)
Wendy
6/09/2012
6:45:35 PM
On 6/09/2012 anthonycuskelly wrote:
>I dunno, I'd rather jump straight in somewhere that might challenge me
>but be doable rather than either chase easier stuff or accidentally end
>up at the local equivalent of Taipan. Doesn't seem pointless to me, especially
>if you end up somewhere that uses two grading systems at the same crag.

For all their vagaries, aren't the available conversion charts fine to avoid accidently ending up on the local equivalent of taipan? Not to mention your own eyes?

I tend to jump on something around the given equivalent of 18 at any new crag. It's a great grade to climb in most places, it's a reasonable grade for a warm up for me, and if the guide ends up being a bit out in the difficult direction, well, i've got quite a few grades up my sleeve. Surely everyone bar beginners has a grade that is similar for them? Assuming that if that grade is really low, you've considered that in your choice of destination?

Macciza
6/09/2012
6:46:21 PM
On 6/09/2012 One Day Hero wrote:

No worries - and whenever you want to jump on Collossus, Gigantor or Shai Hulud to confirm the grades - likewise, give us a yell . . .

So are you saying that there is no way to translate approximate grades between various grading systems?
One Day Hero
6/09/2012
7:05:15 PM
:D I wonder which of us will be first to never achieve our respective targets?

Grade conversion only works (and only has any real point) if you have direct experience.

anthonycuskelly
6/09/2012
8:13:20 PM
Geez, "might challenge me", rather than be right at my limit, but it's nice know I should have a few grades spare. Having climbed on 3 grading systems in a week (none of which were what I started on), I'm never going to remember it, so some sort of table is useful.

And yes, existing conversion tables are near enough for me, but they do seem to be a bit off <15 (which is the bit I find useful for intial warmups on trad).

davidn
6/09/2012
8:26:23 PM
I see another bet coming on.

Is British 7a really that easy? I saw a video that told me E7 = V7. Videos don't lie, but Damian lies a lot because he likes to troll people. Therefore this route could be V9+ at the crux. So we need uncut footage of both of you climbing a confirmed V10. And, as Damian would say, none of those 'new school' bouldering grades. Wikipedia tells me that's the equivalent of a 31, so take your pick which you prefer, maybe a grade 32 just to be safe. Punks in the Gym? Again, Wikipedia wouldn't lie, and I'd trust it over anyone here.

I suggest Macca bet his rack, and Damian bet his magoo hat, given we know how emotionally attached you each are to those things. Loser may also have to marry Simey on top of the Totem Pole. Though I know Stugang Willich had first dibs on that prize.

shortman
6/09/2012
8:56:08 PM
On 6/09/2012 davidn wrote:
>I see another bet coming on.
>
>Is British 7a really that easy? I saw a video that told me E7 = V7.
>Videos don't lie, but Damian lies a lot because he likes to troll people.
> Therefore this route could be V9+ at the crux. So we need uncut footage
>of both of you climbing a confirmed V10. And, as Damian would say, none
>of those 'new school' bouldering grades. Wikipedia tells me that's the
>equivalent of a 31, so take your pick which you prefer, maybe a grade 32
>just to be safe. Punks in the Gym? Again, Wikipedia wouldn't lie, and
>I'd trust it over anyone here.
>
>I suggest Macca bet his rack, and Damian bet his magoo hat, given we know
>how emotionally attached you each are to those things. Loser may also
>have to marry Simey on top of the Totem Pole. Though I know Stugang Willich
>had first dibs on that prize.


Is this the sort of reason you took the time to individually erase almost a 1000 posts davidn?
One Day Hero
6/09/2012
9:29:51 PM
You gotta realise, Shorty, that davidn really buys into this stuff. Macca did a beautiful job of ripping on the thought process.........take what you can actually do (on the best day you ever had) then, via a couple of currency conversions on the way to somewhere else, you magically arrive at the idea that you can (in theory) climb hard routes in a foreign land you've never set eyes on. Of course you mustn't ever go over there and test the theory out, because.......
Wendy
6/09/2012
9:46:43 PM
On 6/09/2012 anthonycuskelly wrote:

>
>And yes, existing conversion tables are near enough for me, but they do
>seem to be a bit off <15 (which is the bit I find useful for intial warmups
>on trad).

I think part of the problem here is we have the only grading system that covers this grade range in any detail. So everything is going to be a bit skewwhiff when you move to working on a system that only has 4-5 grades covering that range. Anything you jump on could be 2 of our grades either sides but fit perfectly reasonably into 5a or 5.6. Have I previously mentioned we also have the only grading system that really makes sense?

shortman
6/09/2012
9:48:57 PM
So if I have to aid my way up a grade 10 crack, but can burn a reachy grade 22 face climb am I really an E3 climber? I think your clutchin at straws Damo.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6/09/2012
9:57:28 PM
On 6/09/2012 davidn wrote:
>Loser may also have to marry Simey on top of the Totem Pole.

You probably couldn't interest him in going back there since the top of it fell down...


shortman
6/09/2012
9:59:48 PM
On 6/09/2012 Wendy wrote:
>On 6/09/2012 anthonycuskelly wrote:
>
>>
>>And yes, existing conversion tables are near enough for me, but they
>do
>>seem to be a bit off <15 (which is the bit I find useful for intial warmups
>>on trad).
>
>I think part of the problem here is we have the only grading system that
>covers this grade range in any detail.

I don't know about this. I reckon low grade climbs are all over the shop. In my limited experience 11 and under are cruisy, 12 - 16 seem all a bit the same depending on the style. 17 sorta sits on its own, and 18 starts to get hardish.

That would make 4 grades for what is meant to be 18.

Macciza
6/09/2012
10:02:54 PM
Woah - I don't think I said I could climb 'hard' routes over in England . . .
I did say that based on the grade conversion I could probably climb what I climb over here, over there grade-wise . . . so E6 6b should be approachable for me when 'in form'. . .
Also, I climbed a new route with a British dude years ago who reckoned it would have been E6/6b ish if it had been in England and I have not deteriorated too much since then . . .
If I do ever get over there I certainly will test the theory out - until then I can get a bit of an idea by using grade conversion ie SH E6/6b - should check what Davey thinks . . .
I think i do fairly well with bold stuff within my grade range when I put my mind to it - better than a lot of climbers I know who climb way harder than me, but not bolder . . .

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6/09/2012
10:04:02 PM
On 6/09/2012 shortman wrote:
>On 6/09/2012 Wendy wrote:
>>On 6/09/2012 anthonycuskelly wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>And yes, existing conversion tables are near enough for me, but they
>>do
>>>seem to be a bit off <15 (which is the bit I find useful for intial
>warmups
>>>on trad).
>>
>>I think part of the problem here is we have the only grading system that
>>covers this grade range in any detail.
>
>I don't know about this. I reckon low grade climbs are all over the shop.
>In my limited experience 11 and under are cruisy, 12 - 16 seem all a
>bit the same depending on the style. 17 sorta sits on its own, and 18 starts
>to get hardish.
>
>That would make 4 grades for what is meant to be 18.

Go climb the classics at Mt Piddington.
It is the best yardstick you will have for those grades, as that is where John Ewbank refined the 'new' grading system.
~> There really is no confusion, once you have done that...

Big G
6/09/2012
10:28:07 PM
On 6/09/2012 Macciza wrote:
>On 6/09/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>
>No worries - and whenever you want to jump on Collossus, Gigantor or Shai
>Hulud to confirm the grades - likewise, give us a yell . . .
>
Isnt there a rule/theory about thread length before macciza mentions Shai Hulud?

nmonteith
6/09/2012
10:38:22 PM
He mentioned it on post three of this topic.
One Day Hero
6/09/2012
10:44:16 PM
Doesn't count if macca is only using it as part of a cunning ploy to hang shit on davidn :)
dalai
6/09/2012
10:47:45 PM
Pretty sure Macca had you clearly in his sights ODH.

Macciza
7/09/2012
12:30:20 AM
On 6/09/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>He mentioned it on post three of this topic.

No I didn't - all I wrote was SH E6/7 6B, who knows what that means . . .

And whilst you guys may have a 'theory' . . . based on what?, I don't know . . .
But I have a rule, and until someone else steps up and climbs 'it' I can mention 'it' all I want!
And I know of a few 'hardman' who have had plans for it that never eventuated . . .
If you want to dispute the grade or my right to mention it - go climb it yourself and then talk . . .

SHAI HULUD, SHAI HULUD, SHAI HULUD, SHAI HULUD, SHAI HULUD, SHAI HULUD, SHAI HULUD!
" Where the 'real' men go (when they go to Stapleton) - and where pussies fear to tread "

Oh and Neil, seeing as how you have aided Gigantor, how do you think you'd go freeing it? Grade?

 Page 2 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 67
There are 67 messages in this topic.

 

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