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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

Author
Cerro Torre by Fair Means.

wallwombat
27/08/2012
2:38:47 PM
Pretty short but quite interesting.

dave1962
27/08/2012
8:44:48 PM
cool, enjoyed very much. cheers
mr poo
27/08/2012
9:12:23 PM
Wow, I loved the clip. cheers for posting it!
off_route
27/08/2012
11:01:10 PM
Very cool
simey
27/08/2012
11:09:01 PM
I think Patagonia should make a similar film about Mt York.

cruze
28/08/2012
7:16:13 AM
Noice.

Macciza
28/08/2012
8:54:13 AM
It's a pity they don't mentioned that David Lama got the first free ascent . . .
And suspicious that there are such gaps in his memory of the climb . . .

wallwombat
28/08/2012
12:10:17 PM
On 28/08/2012 Macciza wrote:
>It's a pity they don't mentioned that David Lama got the first free ascent
>. . .
>And suspicious that there are such gaps in his memory of the climb . .
> .

David Lama's free ascent used Meastri's bolt ladder.

This vid is about the three routes on the mountain that don't use Meaststri's bolts.

I think you missed that bit.

sbm
28/08/2012
1:04:56 PM
On 28/08/2012 wallwombat wrote:
>On 28/08/2012 Macciza wrote:
>>It's a pity they don't mentioned that David Lama got the first free ascent
>>. . .
>>And suspicious that there are such gaps in his memory of the climb .
>.
>> .
>
>David Lama's free ascent used Meastri's bolt ladder.
>
>This vid is about the three routes on the mountain that don't use Meaststri's
>bolts.
>
>I think you missed that bit.

I thought they chopped the compressor route BEFORE Lama could make his 'redpoint' attempt, and he went and did it anyway with massive runouts? Source http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=66281

wallwombat
28/08/2012
1:22:31 PM
"Wharton commented, "All told, a route with over 400 holes could be brought down to less then 20 very reasonably, and it would without doubt change the nature of the peak and its difficulty considerably."

(Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk) ''chopped around 100 of Maestri's bolts on their descent"

That still leaves around 300 bolts.

Runouts or no runouts, that's probably not exactly "Fair Means"
kieranl
28/08/2012
2:28:03 PM
On 28/08/2012 wallwombat wrote:
>"Wharton commented, "All told, a route with over 400 holes could be brought
>down to less then 20 very reasonably, and it would without doubt change
>the nature of the peak and its difficulty considerably."
>
>(Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk) ''chopped around 100 of Maestri's bolts
>on their descent"
>
>That still leaves around 300 bolts.
>
>Runouts or no runouts, that's probably not exactly "Fair Means"
Apparently they clipped only 5 bolts while leading, ironically none of them on Maestri's bolt-ladders. They then chopped all the headwall bolts and a lower pitch. Apparently they left all of the bolts on Maestri's big diversion out right from the ridge below the ice-towers, presumably because they weren't coming down that way.

Macciza
28/08/2012
2:29:45 PM
Lama's ascent completely free 8a minimal protection
Kennedy/Kruk 5.11/A2
kieranl
28/08/2012
3:23:02 PM
On 28/08/2012 Macciza wrote:
>It's a pity they don't mentioned that David Lama got the first free ascent
>. . .
>And suspicious that there are such gaps in his memory of the climb . .
>
David Lama's account of the bivvies en route are eerily similar to Miguel75's recent horror night at Mt Alex. Perhaps he didn't like to mention that he popped out for a while for bacon and eggs..

wallwombat
28/08/2012
9:23:09 PM
On 28/08/2012 Macciza wrote:
>Lama's ascent completely free 8a minimal protection
>Kennedy/Kruk 5.11/A2

Only "minimum protection because there were an extra 100 bolts on the head wall, when he made his previous redpoint attempt.

Personally, I find Kennedy and Kruk's ascent much more impressive. Pure alpine style ascent without the camera crew and associated friggers in the rigging. No huge sponsorship. They didn't use Maestri's bolt ladder and then were brave enough to make a huge ethical decision by chopping the bolts on the head wall and redeeming a beautiful mountain.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7/05/2014
1:18:44 PM
On 28/08/2012 wallwombat wrote:
>(snip)
>Pure alpine style ascent without the camera crew and associated friggers in
>the rigging. No huge sponsorship.
>(snip)

The Cossey brothers ascent of this outstanding natural bit of architecture also piques my interest, from that point of view.

There are 15 messages in this topic.

 

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