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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 41
Author
Commit: A Fall In Bishop
Olbert
22/08/2012
3:21:12 PM
Big Wall - Yosemite
Sport - Red River Gorge
Trad - not sure.
Cracks - Indian Creek
Variety - Red Rocks
Bouldering - no.

Just because I like to make people jealous, I'm going to all of the above places in less than two weeks.

nmonteith
22/08/2012
3:45:24 PM
Big Wall - Yosemite
Alpine Multi-pitch - Rocky Mtns Colorado
Desert Multi-pitch - Red Rocks
Sport - Red River Gorge
Trad - Squamish or New River Gorge
Cracks - Devils Tower
Towers - Moab
Slabs - Toulume
Crimps - Smith Rocks
Choss - Fisher Towers
Pockets - Wild Iris or Enchanted Tower

Did I miss anything?
One Day Hero
22/08/2012
3:51:29 PM
Indian Creek and the nearby towers don't seem to be in there..........nor the Needles. Both of those places have come up repeatedly as peoples favorite crags in the world (when I'm canvassing for travel ideas)

Edit; Ah, just noticed that the desert towers are in there. Devil's Tower over Indian Creek? (I'd love to visit both, but if it came down to just one, which would you recommend?)

nmonteith
22/08/2012
3:57:30 PM
If you're doing Moab towers you might as well do Indian Creek as well - same place really.

Devils Tower is just so unique. Three pitch enduro splitters - I guess Ben Lommond is quite similar actually. Easier first pitch - steller mid pitch and third pitch is a little loose (sometimes).

Devils Tower is a LONG way from anywhere else, and really boring countryside so I guess the Moab desert would win if you had to choose between the two areas.

I've never been to the Needles - it's #1 on the list but I can never sync up the right time and right partner. I attempted two years ago but go snowed off before we go there.

nmonteith
22/08/2012
3:58:08 PM
p.s. I leave in 3 weeks. Want to come Damo?
One Day Hero
22/08/2012
4:12:17 PM
What? You're going on that trip? I'd love to come along, but have inescapable commitments this year.............and if I was was going, I'd get in early in the planning stage and veto time wasting shit like the New River Gorge and Fischer Towers :) I'm gunning for a 3-4 month epic in U.S./canada next year or the one after.

Sounds awesome though, you got a posse heading over?

nmonteith
22/08/2012
4:16:24 PM
All of that list is from my previous three trips - this coming trip is Maple Canyon, Red River Gorge, New River Gorge, Gunks and Southern Yosemite and Joshua Tree. A pretty random selection but I've only got guaranteed partners for 3 weeks (RRG) so the rest could be interesting. I decided to f--- my full time job off and become a climbing bum.
One Day Hero
22/08/2012
4:21:42 PM
On 22/08/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>I decided
>to f--- my full time job off and become a climbing bum.

Seriously?

The good Dr
22/08/2012
4:47:16 PM
On 22/08/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>What? You're going on that trip? I'd love to come along, but have inescapable
>commitments this year.............and if I was was going, I'd get in early
>in the planning stage and veto time wasting shit like the New River Gorge
>and Fischer Towers :) I'm gunning for a 3-4 month epic in U.S./canada next
>year or the one after.
>
>Sounds awesome though, you got a posse heading over?

Might see you over there. Want to plug a return visit to Devils Tower and finally get to Indian Creek. Might have a small posse, some of whom you may know (WA climbers)

nmonteith
22/08/2012
5:01:17 PM
On 22/08/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 22/08/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>>I decided
>>to f--- my full time job off and become a climbing bum.
>
>Seriously?

yes - counting down the days until quit day. 22 days to go. Four weeks notice is tedious.
Olbert
22/08/2012
5:35:29 PM
On 22/08/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>All of that list is from my previous three trips - this coming trip is
>Maple Canyon, Red River Gorge, New River Gorge, Gunks and Southern Yosemite
>and Joshua Tree. A pretty random selection but I've only got guaranteed
>partners for 3 weeks (RRG) so the rest could be interesting. I decided
>to f--- my full time job off and become a climbing bum.

I'm sure I might have mentioned this before but I'll mention it again. Me and my brother are going to be around RRG and NRG around mid to late October, we should meet up if you're around.

Big G
22/08/2012
5:41:39 PM
On 22/08/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>On 22/08/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>>On 22/08/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>>>I decided
>>>to f--- my full time job off and become a climbing bum.
>>
>>Seriously?
>
>yes - counting down the days until quit day. 22 days to go. Four weeks
>notice is tedious.

Certainly puts my,possible (if I can find a partner-come on Rick, you know you want) 3-4 days in the gramps in the shade!

nmonteith
22/08/2012
5:53:46 PM
On 22/08/2012 Olbert wrote:
>I'm sure I might have mentioned this before but I'll mention it again.
> Me and my brother are going to be around RRG and NRG around mid to late
>October, we should meet up if you're around.

Yere - I'll be done and dusted at RRG by then (I leave 6th Oct) but I will be at NRG for at least 1.5 weeks after that. It would be great to climb with someone competent rather than random Americans from Rogers Rusty Rooster Ranch Retreat's notice board!
dalai
22/08/2012
6:40:20 PM
On 21/08/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>So..........is Bishop any good? The bouldering looks about 500x less awesome
>than a couple of other famous spots, and the whole "amazing mountain scenery"
>thing seems dumb. If you want amazing mountain scenery, maybe just go and
>climb some mountains.
>

You can't dismiss an area just because you have watched a couple of video's online.

The bouldering there is very good ODH - and without the bureaucracy that has ruined Hueco... Last time I flew to the States was just to boulder again at Hueco - and that was when they were starting to clamp down on access. This took much away from the experience - nothing like being viewed as vermin by the park rangers! Restrictions are now even more extreme!

The whole east side of the Sierra's has a great mix of climbing - rock types and styles. And the scenery is spectacular and does add to the experience. If the passes are open, is also really close to Tuolumne and the Valley...

stugang
22/08/2012
8:41:12 PM
On 22/08/2012 nmonteith wrote:>
>yes - counting down the days until quit day. 22 days to go. Four weeks
>notice is tedious.

Pfft....you want tedium try eight weeks notice....but I've only got seven working days to go!
Duncan
22/08/2012
10:58:30 PM
Hueco bureaucracy isn't so bad if you know how to play the game. Knowing guides helps too.

You all should read the sweet article on Bishop in Vertical Life, btw.
dalai
23/08/2012
11:22:55 AM
@Duncan - glad it is still workable.

I'm coming from a time when you could walk and boulder at all areas in Hueco without a guide. Restrictions were starting to come into play, but only limiting 100 cars in the park at one time...

Now you can only boulder on North Mountain without a guide and only be one of 70?? people! Then needing guides to go elsewhere in the park.

And worst of all Pete passed away in 2006 and you can't stay at the Hueco Tanks Country store!
spicelab
23/08/2012
3:55:00 PM
My impressions of Bishop from October 2009:

- Buttermilks aren't paticularly fun unless you're at least moderately good at crimping. The highballs look really, really impressive.
- Happys and Sads have some decent problems but aren't in very inspiring locations
- Owens River Gorge has some quality technical face climbing in the 5.11 and 5.12 range with some similar featuring to Arapiles - lots of bulginess with unexpected sidepulls and underclings around the edges. The post-industrial location isn't breathtaking, but I dug it.
- Bishop township is okay, a couple of decent places to eat and one passable cafe, but nothing particularly charming.
One Day Hero
23/08/2012
5:20:19 PM
On 23/08/2012 spicelab wrote:
>My impressions of Bishop from October 2009:
>
>- Buttermilks aren't paticularly fun unless you're at least moderately
>good at crimping
>- Happys and Sads aren't in very inspiring
>locations
>- Owens River Gorge.....The post-industrial
>location isn't breathtaking.
>- Bishop township is okay..........one passable
>cafe, but nothing particularly charming.

Gosh, that's exactly what I'm looking for when I fly halfway round the world on a climbing holiday! When're we going?
Duncan
23/08/2012
5:48:57 PM
Bishop is good. Definitely not as good as Font and Hueco, probably not as good as Castle Hill and the Grampians, maybe even not as good as the sandstone in the southern US. I won't be back any time soon because there are too many other places to go, but my friend Pavi, who does most of his climbing on granite, rated it as maybe his favourite spot in the world.

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 41
There are 41 messages in this topic.

 

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