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Leavittation: How To Climb Offwidth Cracks


ajfclark

1-Aug-2012
8:28:24 AM

In one of those happy coincidences, Leavittation came up in a discussion yesterday afternoon and Rock and Ice posted this this morning:

Leavittation: How To Climb Offwidth Cracks from Randy Leavitt on Vimeo.

pecheur

1-Aug-2012
9:49:23 AM

That was just awesome, thanks for posting.


ajfclark

1-Aug-2012
10:09:02 AM

Here's some related stuff including an article by Randy: http://www.widefetish.com/pages/how_to.html


muki

1-Aug-2012
12:04:26 PM

Love/hate offwidth climbing.

ARidgley

1-Aug-2012
12:06:02 PM

I can live with being unworthy.


muki

1-Aug-2012
12:33:39 PM

The start to Sandpiper has an all too short offwidth section that is just cracker.

One Day Hero

1-Aug-2012
12:53:44 PM

On 1/08/2012 muki wrote:
>The start to Sandpiper has an all too short offwidth section that is just
>cracker.

pffff, you can chimney it at about gr14


muki

1-Aug-2012
1:07:12 PM

as I said all to short, passports offwidth section is much longer and as a bonus its sandy.
But I think the grampians in general is better for offwidth, even Karma Sutra's not very wide. and I cant think of many off widths at the mount.


ajfclark

1-Aug-2012
1:21:39 PM

What's on the list?

Does Electra count or is the wide bit not long enough?


Muki

1-Aug-2012
11:35:55 PM

Well watchtower is off but the style means that you can use other techniques to climb it
The narliest off width I can remember climbing at the mount is a 22 called light fingered in hunger gully
die loaded looks big but climbs well, paladin is slippery, but not off, vortex? Nope can't think of others.

Mark R

2-Aug-2012
1:57:12 PM

Wizard of ice?

mikllaw

2-Aug-2012
2:01:22 PM

As far as I know, the technique was first used by me trying Country Road at Buffalo in '76. But probably used previously as one of many techniques cycled through by anyone in a wide crack over the decades

Jayford4321

2-Aug-2012
2:14:49 PM

On 2/08/2012 mikllaw wrote:
>As far as I know, the technique was first used by me trying Country Road
>at Buffalo in '76. But probably on of many crazy attempts cycled through
>by anyone in a wide crack over the decades

I don't think the term mikltation would have caught on to well.
Not very uplifting at all.

Cam McKenzie

2-Aug-2012
2:39:49 PM

On 2/08/2012 Mark R wrote:
>Wizard of ice?

Not much true offwidthing on the Wizard from memory. It's more of a handcrack at the back of a trench. Great route!

gfdonc

3-Aug-2012
2:30:19 PM

On 2/08/2012 Stugang. wrote:
>I don't think the term mikltation would have caught on to well.
>Not very uplifting at all.

Yeah. Would have been much better if Jim Titt had invented it ..


ChuckNorris

4-Aug-2012
2:55:10 PM

I avoided watching this for a while...but just did and must say it was pretty cool (not as good as the indoor sprinting though ajf).

The music however....I kid you not that is the background music to Barbie and the 12 dancing magic sisters.

Wendy

4-Aug-2012
4:57:37 PM

There's stacks of funky full body thrutching at the mount if you want it. Depends a bit on your size and style predilictions really. I watched a girl second Cerberus by face climbing the overhanging arete on the right once. There's bugger all in the way of pure cracks of any size though, à la Frog, granite, dolerite type cracks. I read an article in an old Climbing about offwidth technique that basically said it was uncouth to get in there and grovel. Well, most Australian fat cracks respond quite well to get in and grovel, and pretty much, that was all I could do until I went to the creek a few years ago. It's a whole different ball game when your offwidth is in a blank face.

You can have a play with some good oldfashioned grovelling of various sorts on Crucifition, Light Fingered, Retardation, Glory Rodent, Cul de Sac, Wizard of Ice, Electra, Cerberus, St Peter, Jackal, Nut Case, Die Loaded, Fennel, Red Parrot Chasm, those things coming off the Oasis, those things up hill from Denim, and to the right of Bulger. And Bulger itself. Lennox, Marbuck, Procul, Kama Sutra, Scorpian, Picking Winners, Sport climb this you bastard, 5 fingered mary, kingdom come, brain drops, Manx, Claw, fall of man ... i could probably find some more but that should keep anyone occupied for a while.

kieranl

4-Aug-2012
8:24:34 PM

On 4/08/2012 stugang wrote:
>I avoided watching this for a while...but just did and must say it was
>pretty cool (not as good as the indoor sprinting though ajf).
>
Was there sprinting?

If memory serves me right Pritchard the Almost Unstoppable is another good grovel.


ajfclark

4-Aug-2012
9:02:34 PM

In the Better than Climbing thread there's some pretty awesome camera work at a women's indoor sprinting event.


skegly

4-Aug-2012
9:28:13 PM

I found some more.

There are 21 messages in this topic.