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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 21
Author
Rock Climbing Basics: Belaying the Leader

Nayda
28/06/2012
5:16:52 PM


would you trust her to give you a catch?
One Day Hero
28/06/2012
5:32:55 PM
Seems to belay ok, but her inane repetition of how to feed rope out reminded me of this kwality piece of cinematic genius......

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAFzndSWhBg
dalai
28/06/2012
9:05:08 PM
On 28/06/2012 Nayda wrote:
>
>would you trust her to give you a catch?

Fine, though standing a little too far out for my liking.

More concerned that the climber didn't tie a stopper knot on his figure 8. Would have been good if she was observant enough to notice this and pointed it out to him.

Eduardo Slabofvic
28/06/2012
9:13:28 PM
Is she holding a dildo in that photo?
ARidgley
28/06/2012
9:29:01 PM
I agree with both your points Dalai. Neither would be of real concern to me in any other climbing video, but place yourself as an authority and it better be beyond reproach. That wasn't.

stugang
28/06/2012
10:24:51 PM
I'd trust her deeply and meaningfully.

However I do find it a little scary that these so called instructional videos are getting put about. Nothing she says is really wrong, but really is anyone going to learn from this? IMO if you are so ADD that you learn belaying from a 3 min video you can NFCWMUFKNTWTNDGFKURSF. And also GNDIUKNTWT
simey
28/06/2012
10:25:55 PM
Very ordinary instructional video. It might have sufficed if it was set indoors, but for an outdoor scenario it was seriously lacking...

- No helmet for the belayer.
- No double-checking between climber and belayer.
- No explanation regarding the concerns/benefits of where you stand in relation to the cliff and why you might change your position accordingly.
- No mention of concerns with regard weight differences between climber and belayer.
- No mention of trad climbing considerations (ie. poor gear at start of route will affect belaying with regard where you stand or 'spotting' the climber).
- No hints on how to limit getting belayers neck from looking up all the time.
- No mention about clear communication between climber and belayer.

I'm sure there are other things I haven't mentioned. Just a pox instructional clip.




stugang
28/06/2012
10:31:04 PM
The big question is whether you'd trust her deeply and meaningfully?

Well would ya?
simey
28/06/2012
10:36:37 PM
On 28/06/2012 dalai wrote:
>More concerned that the climber didn't tie a stopper knot on his figure 8. Would have been good if she was observant enough to notice this and pointed it out to him.

Gee Dalai, who gives a toss about stopper knots after fig-8s? Stopper knots after bowlines are one thing, but otherwise stopper knots after fig-8s are neither here nor there.

I think Eduardo is far more perceptive in noticing the dildo she is holding up on the opening page. Maybe it is a little hint that she is having a lend of us all.
dalai
28/06/2012
10:57:07 PM
On 28/06/2012 simey wrote:

>Gee Dalai, who gives a toss about stopper knots after fig-8s?

Since I mentioned it, obviously I do?

Guarantees you have enough of a tail with the knot. Doesn't add any real bulk to the knot, so why not back it up?
simey
28/06/2012
11:01:12 PM
Tying stopper knots after fig-8s (along with other gems such as 'don't use your knees!') is typical of the sort of 'instruction' that gets drilled into novices at the expense of more important stuff (like how to belay properly).

Dalai, you probably had this info drilled into you by some scout master on your first day climbing and you have probably never questioned it since.
dalai
28/06/2012
11:03:12 PM
I learned everything I needed to know about climbing from the book Yosemite climber and a few other classics from my local library. I'm still alive, so they must have been right... ;-)
simey
28/06/2012
11:08:59 PM
On 28/06/2012 dalai wrote:
>I learned everything I needed to know about climbing from the book Yosemite climber...

Someone should write a new volume called Nowra Climber.
technogeekery
29/06/2012
9:05:22 AM
On 28/06/2012 dalai wrote:
>I learned everything I needed to know about climbing from the book Yosemite
>climber and a few other classics from my local library. I'm still alive,
>so they must have been right... ;-)

Hell, the book I learned from had a whole chapter on how to nail tricounis into your boots for superior grip. Good stuff.

Nayda
29/06/2012
3:15:52 PM
On 28/06/2012 simey wrote:
>Very ordinary instructional video. It might have sufficed if it was set
>indoors, but for an outdoor scenario it was seriously lacking...
>
>- No helmet for the belayer.
>- No double-checking between climber and belayer.
>- No explanation regarding the concerns/benefits of where you stand in
>relation to the cliff and why you might change your position accordingly.
>- No mention of concerns with regard weight differences between climber
>and belayer.
>- No mention of trad climbing considerations (ie. poor gear at start of
>route will affect belaying with regard where you stand or 'spotting' the
>climber).
>- No hints on how to limit getting belayers neck from looking up all the
>time.
>- No mention about clear communication between climber and belayer.
>
>

all that & given she's using an ATC, 'tunnelling' the rope, sliding the brake hand down the rope without another hand with a static grip on the brake-end as a backup. Was anyone else taught the old "four steps to give rope out, four steps to take it in" lead belay technique in their lead belay intro class? You wouldn't rap off without a backup on your brake, why would you put your mate's life in your hands without backing it up, especially when rope movement is more unpredictable, should ur mate take a surprise whip?

Eduardo Slabofvic
29/06/2012
4:03:03 PM
On 28/06/2012 simey wrote:
>On 28/06/2012 dalai wrote:
>>I learned everything I needed to know about climbing from the book Yosemite
>climber...
>
>Someone should write a new volume called Nowra Climber.

maybe a book called "Australia Climber". I'll write the chapter on Kweeeenzlairnd belaying technique.

Don't worry, it will be a short chapter.

E. Wells
29/06/2012
6:19:13 PM
I teach people how to belay, but I dont want to click on this. I save my data for porn and theological blogs
simey
29/06/2012
8:00:43 PM
On 29/06/2012 Nayda wrote:
>all that & given she's using an ATC, 'tunnelling' the rope, sliding the
>brake hand down the rope without another hand with a static grip on the
>brake-end as a backup. Was anyone else taught the old "four steps to give
>rope out, four steps to take it in" lead belay technique in their lead
>belay intro class?

I don't use (nor teach) any four-step method for belaying a lead climber. And it would be extremely rare to find someone belaying a lead climber much differently to what is shown in the video. Providing you never let go with the brake hand you are always ready to lock off in an instant. It is simple and very reliable.

>You wouldn't rap off without a backup on your brake,
>why would you put your mate's life in your hands without backing it up,
>especially when rope movement is more unpredictable, should ur mate take
>a surprise whip?

Most climbers usually do rap without a back-up on the rope.


Rocksinmyhead
29/06/2012
8:04:01 PM
On 28/06/2012 Nayda wrote:
>
>would you trust her to give you a catch?

Sure, she looks no worse than many. Maybe shake a bit and scream "watch me" to keep her attention.

But as an teaching vid it sux, as it dumbs the whole process down to fit it into three minutes. Simey's right, and I also like how there's no mention of using your dominant hand for braking, and how she advises to pay attention but spends most of the time looking at the camera. I'm suprised at the number of reputable sponsors who put their name to it.
One Day Hero
29/06/2012
8:44:53 PM
On 29/06/2012 Rocksinmyhead wrote:
>I'm suprised
>at the number of reputable sponsors who put their name to it.

I know, Vertical Girl have just lost all their cred! I hope people will send the company a strong message by choosing to purchase a different brand of crag dildo.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 21
There are 21 messages in this topic.

 

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