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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 37
Author
Iker Pou on Demencia Senil 9a+

benjenga
29/05/2012
3:41:16 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lr_5m443WI&feature=youtube_gdata_player

How are your fingers feeling today??

Superstu
29/05/2012
7:36:58 PM
I think i popped a pulley just watching that!
One Day Hero
30/05/2012
1:07:12 AM
Owwww! I wonder how many of those holes are natural?

Big G
30/05/2012
6:41:10 AM
If I was going to chip holds, I'm not sure I'd be making them mono's that I had to virtually dyno to. I watched it last night and this morning my knuckles are all aching...

cruze
30/05/2012
7:02:52 AM
clearly the foot jam hold is drilled. I mean it is so out of keeping with the rest of the route.
Wendy
30/05/2012
9:09:22 AM
I'd have a bit more to say than icky poo to campussing off monos. And to the tears in his fingers afterwards. Still. i like that superglue is still in fashion. Is it a point of aid though, to glue your tape on and reinforce your skin like that?
Duncan
30/05/2012
10:14:54 AM
What was it that Gullich said - something about monos being tough, but only on one finger? He's pretty much resting at least two fingers on every hand the whole time. Easy money.
maxdacat
30/05/2012
10:23:46 AM
On 30/05/2012 cruze wrote:
>clearly the foot jam hold is drilled. I mean it is so out of keeping with
>the rest of the route.

err you doubters do know it is conglomerate there so where the pebbles fall out it makes nice pockets...all very much natural.
One Day Hero
30/05/2012
12:14:48 PM
err you suckers do know that Ethan Pringle was stoked about Groove Train because "It's really cool to do a route of that difficulty which isn't manufactured"

Ican Poo's route is quite likely au natural......just saying that if you needed to give nature a little helping hand, deep monos really are a super easy renovation job.
dalai
30/05/2012
12:42:06 PM
On 30/05/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>if you needed to give nature a little helping hand, deep monos really are a super
>easy renovation job.

Please just make sure you use a large enough drill bit to allow for sausage fingers!

Reminds my of quite a few older routes at Buoux where the pockets were drilled just the right size for the FA's skinny fingers... I.e. Tabou is an 8a+ I tried at sector Bout de Monde - every two finger pocket I had to try and squash my little and ring finger into as they were all too small for middle and ring or middle and first combo's. After a lap or two of being frustrated trying to cram my fingers into the pockets to no avail, I quickly moved onto other routes on the wall which we better suited my fingers...

Superstu
30/05/2012
1:04:13 PM
maybe icky poo could have drilled out a few places to hold a can of red bull so he could take a few swigs mid route, that pre-climb drughit and carefully-orientated beanie aren't getting the message across enuff
maxdacat
30/05/2012
5:04:17 PM
On 30/05/2012 dalai wrote:

>Reminds my of quite a few older routes at Buoux where the pockets were
>drilled just the right size for the FA's skinny fingers...

Yeah, Buoux is famous for drilled pockets on the harder routes, but it puzzles me when people whip this assertion out about a route that has had no suggestions it is anything but natural, at a crag with no track record of drilled routes, by an FA who has a clean ethic.

http://climbingnarc.com/2009/02/chris-sharma-does-first-ascent-of-demencia-senil-515a-in-margalef/
Duncan
30/05/2012
5:14:00 PM
Try googling "demencia senil drilled".

Sonic
30/05/2012
5:29:48 PM
There's much better footage of Sharma climbing Demencia on The Scene (I think). Being his route I wouldn't say its a chip up straight off as like said above, he doesn't believe in that (apparently)
maxdacat
30/05/2012
5:51:20 PM
On 30/05/2012 Duncan wrote:
>Try googling "demencia senil drilled".

I did - i couldn't find anything specific to the route except an Ondra interview that had nothing to do with it. Feel free to provide a link if that clarifies things.
kp
30/05/2012
7:46:48 PM
Demncia Senil was actually equipped by Jordi Pou, the owner of the refugi, and one of the coolest dudes around. The manufacturing is generally very well done, so you would have to climb it to make a judgement.

Great looking route none the less!
Dr Nick
30/05/2012
7:58:16 PM
I reckon I could do it if it didn't have such an epic walk in.
dalai
30/05/2012
7:58:40 PM
On 30/05/2012 maxdacat wrote:
>Yeah, Buoux is famous for drilled pockets on the harder routes, but it
>puzzles me when people whip this assertion out about a route that has had
>no suggestions it is anything but natural, at a crag with no track record
>of drilled routes, by an FA who has a clean ethic.

Agreed. Newer areas I travelled to looked pretty clean from enhancements. Was just asking ODH to make sure he uses a larger drill bit next time he thinks of drilling...

In regards to demencia senil. Routes and boulder problems have been know to get chipped AFTER the FA. Not saying it has happened here but always a possibility?
Duncan
30/05/2012
8:56:11 PM
On 30/05/2012 maxdacat wrote:
>I did - i couldn't find anything specific to the route except an Ondra
>interview that had nothing to do with it. Feel free to provide a link
>if that clarifies things.

I didn't find anything either, I just thought it'd be amusing to get you to google it to.

Miguel75
30/05/2012
9:16:34 PM
On 30/05/2012 Duncan wrote:
>On 30/05/2012 maxdacat wrote:
>>I did - i couldn't find anything specific to the route except an Ondra
>>interview that had nothing to do with it. Feel free to provide a link
>>if that clarifies things.
>
>I didn't find anything either, I just thought it'd be amusing to get you
>to google it to.

Teehee!

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 37
There are 37 messages in this topic.

 

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