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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 22
Author
Making use of bridges and buildings, Melbourne ?

..::- Chris -::..
20/12/2011
11:10:14 AM


Very Cool use of bridges and old tower features. Could this be done here legally ?

Multipitch bridge climbs at 4:45 minute mark...

Eduardo Slabofvic
20/12/2011
1:33:29 PM
Absolutely not. The wearing of beanies is strictly verboten
dalai
20/12/2011
1:48:37 PM
I would think liability concerns would stop it being legal.

Though I had always thought of bolting the arch of Heidelburg Rd bridge. Plus there is a nice length of overhanging concrete over Merri Creek under the Eastern Freeway that would be perfect...

..::- Chris -::..
20/12/2011
2:16:35 PM
On 20/12/2011 dalai wrote:
>I would think liability concerns would stop it being legal.
>
>Though I had always thought of bolting the arch of Heidelburg Rd bridge.
>Plus there is a nice length of overhanging concrete over Merri Creek under
>the Eastern Freeway that would be perfect...

Assuming you had "just gone and bolted them" do you think someone would chop the bolts / holds? Would anyone even notice (if it was a remote bridge etc)

dalai
20/12/2011
2:36:05 PM
Depends on the location... Both I mentioned above are on popular walking track / bike paths.

The Original Burnley survived as long as it did mostly through the confusion who actually managed the site. Wall was VicRoads (then Transurban who pulled it down), the no mans land under the wall which nobody thought they managed and bike path which was managed by Parks Vic.

With the Y pillars under Burke rd at the Eastern Freeway - bolters were reported to the police and nearly got their gear confiscated.

Heidelberg Rd bridge seems tolerated given the carrot have been there a few decades? Same with the bolted pillars under Bridge rd and on the back side of Richmond Bridge. Some other local glue ups have survived too.

Pretty big expense if also bolting on holds as shown in the video, especially given the risk of the wall being removed.
dalai
20/12/2011
2:50:29 PM
Too far for me to be bothered, but concrete flood outflow just nth of Cross Tce Glenroy would make a good overhanging bouldering glue up.

Fake outcrop / boulders on river side mansion under construction just downstream of St Kevin’s Junior school is waiting for some FA’s before the house is finished… ;-)

Eduardo Slabofvic
20/12/2011
2:53:58 PM
On 20/12/2011 dalai wrote:
>>With the Y pillars under Burke rd at the Eastern Freeway - bolters were
>reported to the police and nearly got their gear confiscated.
>

Do the work in daylight whilst wearing a fluro orange vest and yellow helmets. Have someone in a white collared shirt, dark trousers, vest and helment stand near by whilst holding a clip board and talking on a mobile phone.

Be in the moment

shortman
20/12/2011
3:09:31 PM
On 20/12/2011 dalai wrote:
>Too far for me to be bothered, but concrete flood outflow just nth of Cross
>Tce Glenroy would make a good overhanging bouldering glue up.
>
>Fake outcrop / boulders on river side mansion under construction just
>downstream of St Kevin’s Junior school is waiting for some FA’s before
>the house is finished… ;-)

Already done!

..::- Chris -::..
20/12/2011
3:56:55 PM
On 20/12/2011 dalai wrote:
>
>With the Y pillars under Burke rd at the Eastern Freeway - bolters were
>reported to the police and nearly got their gear confiscated.
>
>Heidelberg Rd bridge seems tolerated given the carrot have been there
>a few decades? Same with the bolted pillars under Bridge rd and on the
>back side of Richmond Bridge. Some other local glue ups have survived too.
>
>Pretty big expense if also bolting on holds as shown in the video, especially
>given the risk of the wall being removed.

Are the holds bolted or glued on ? I thought they looked glued to me...

Not that i'd ever do it, but getting a bunch of old crappy holds or glueing on same natural rock type holds (like old burnly) wouldn't be much and putting in 12 dyno bolts / lower offs....
dalai
20/12/2011
5:00:01 PM
On 20/12/2011 ..::- Chris -::.. wrote:
>Not that i'd ever do it, but getting a bunch of old crappy holds or glueing
>on same natural rock type holds (like old burnly) wouldn't be much and
>putting in 12 dyno bolts / lower offs....
>

The old Burnley was bolted with dynabolts as the glue originally used was liquid nails. Even with Epoxy, I'd still use a smaller diameter dynabolt as a back up just incase the bond between the hold and concrete isn't enough. Especially if the holds are larger and wall steeper.
DaveW
20/12/2011
7:08:11 PM
Hmmmm, You should go down to Heidelberg Rd again Dalai. There's a bolting disaster on the south side of the bridge these days. Stainless U-bolts 1.5 metres apart, glue everywhere, complete with lower-off....
Proof that drills and Chemset are only for grown-ups.

Not discreet, and on a heritage-listed structure, not appropriate.
dalai
20/12/2011
8:32:45 PM
Thanks for the update DaveW. It has been quite a few years since I've been down there...

mattjr
20/12/2011
8:54:48 PM
On 20/12/2011 DaveW wrote:

>Proof that drills and Chemset are only for grown-ups.

I love this quote.

JamesMc
20/12/2011
9:26:45 PM
Years ago there was a notice from VicRoads at Burnley saying words to the effect of don`t drill because you might hit reinforcing steel but glue is OK. I thought this was remarkably tolerant at the time. CityLink changed that. I have not been able to track down anyone at VicRoads who remembers.


IdratherbeclimbingM9
21/12/2011
10:30:41 AM
On 20/12/2011 DaveW wrote:
>Not discreet, and on a heritage-listed structure, not appropriate.


As if climbers image in authorities eyes isn't bad enough already...
~> this sounds like an excellent candidate for chopping and patching to me.
MichaelOR
21/12/2011
8:23:34 PM
As a local who occasionally does laps of the excellent traverse on the Heidelberg Rd Bridge, I certainly agree that the bolts are both inappropriate and should be removed. Top-rope the wall if you must, but there is no need for lead bolts!! Why? Go to a gym and have your lead experience on plastic. Go outdoors if you really want to improve your leading.

The bridge is heritage listed and a magnificent structure. The popular bike path full of walkers and cyclists makes this an extremely visible site. The bolts are a really bad advertisement for climbers and leading on them ( it's really top-roping given how close together they are!!) is not worth the attention climbers draw. Everyone stops and looks at you and then see the bolts! You give us all a bad reputation.

* Do laps of the traverse if you want to improve.
* Do laps using every feature, the top of the wall, the top of the blocks and cracks (and fist jam rests)
* If you can do a lap, remove the rests, then remove the top of the wall, then remove the top of the blocks, and then only use the sloping and crimp features of the blocks (and not the tops). This caters for all abilities. If you can do this you won't want to lead such rubbish.
* The do two laps ... then three without stopping.

I'm with DaveW. The bolts should be removed and holes patched.
Michael
dalai
28/03/2012
11:39:50 PM
Finally dropped by Heidelberg road bridge the other day to look at the bolts for myself.

Didn't recall which side of the bridge the new bolts are so first checked out the most obvious side for bolting - the higher north east side of the bridge - nothing. South east side of the bridge, still nothing then final the shorter south west side of the bridge where I finally saw the glue in's. Yes a very short wall and bolts close together, but I had envisioned that it wasn't one line, but grid bolted left and right!

Maybe it was due to dusk approaching, but it didn't seem as bad as what was being portrayed...

Seems pointless that it was bolted, but the only way the general public would notice would be if someone is climbing it, and even in rock starved Melbourne I doubt many would bother!

White Trash
4/04/2012
2:17:00 PM
On 28/03/2012 dalai wrote:
> but grid bolted left and right!
>
>Maybe it was due to dusk approaching, but it didn't seem as bad as what
>was being portrayed...
>
>Seems pointless that it was bolted, but the only way the general public
>would notice would be if someone is climbing it, and even in rock starved
>Melbourne I doubt many would bother!

agree.
still sounds like a why would you bother affari to me .

shortman
4/04/2012
2:22:30 PM
On 4/04/2012 White Trash wrote:
>On 28/03/2012 dalai wrote:
>> but grid bolted left and right!
>>
>>Maybe it was due to dusk approaching, but it didn't seem as bad as what
>>was being portrayed...
>>
>>Seems pointless that it was bolted, but the only way the general public
>>would notice would be if someone is climbing it, and even in rock starved
>>Melbourne I doubt many would bother!
>
>agree.
>still sounds like a why would you bother affari to me .

Was so hopin this post was Stugang puttin up pics of his offwidth.

Hint hint Stu.

White Trash
4/04/2012
2:35:35 PM
On 4/04/2012 shortman wrote:
>On 4/04/2012 White Trash wrote:
>>On 28/03/2012 dalai wrote:
>>> but grid bolted left and right!
>>>
>>>Maybe it was due to dusk approaching, but it didn't seem as bad as what
>>>was being portrayed...
>>>
>>>Seems pointless that it was bolted, but the only way the general public
>>>would notice would be if someone is climbing it, and even in rock starved
>>>Melbourne I doubt many would bother!
>>
>>agree.
>>still sounds like a why would you bother affari to me .
>
>Was so hopin this post was Stugang puttin up pics of his offwidth.
>
>Hint hint Stu.

who the f--- is stugang?

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 22
There are 22 messages in this topic.

 

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