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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

Author

Legends Only - Stockholm 22/10/2011

ajfclark

27/10/2011
11:17:32 AM

The editing at the start of this is pretty woeful... Got and hour and a half? Lot's of talking till 7:30, then a minute and half of a limo backing in... 10 minutes in and I still haven't seen a climber... 12:30 and the climbers are here... 13:00 and finally some climbing? No no, more talking...

Skip to 15 minutes in and there's some climbing... Looks like you get to watch all of their attempts though... I haven't made it though the whole thing yet.

Text from youtube translated by google:

Stockholm 22/10 2011
- Adam Ondra - presentation redundant?
- Dmitry Sharafutdinov - World Champion 2011, Winner of Adidas Rockstars
- Daniel Woods - World Cup winner, 8C-bouldrare
- Paul Robinson - The world's best utomhusbouldrare?
- Andy Gull Rock - World class today, legend tomorrow, 19 years.

JimmyS

27/10/2011
4:11:51 PM

Ondra shows them up easily. Woods looks like he has height issues with some of the problems. No excuse though.

Mike Bee

27/10/2011
4:29:57 PM

Ondra definately looks a cut above the rest.

I couldn't figure out, could the competitors watch each other figure out the beta to the problems, or were the others shielded so they were trying to onsight, rather than flash?

bl@ke

27/10/2011
8:49:59 PM

They got to work the problems the day before

JimmyS

27/10/2011
9:20:07 PM

Really? Maybe I am ignorant to comps, but that seems very strange. Suppose it was more of a spectacle/promotion rather than a comp.

bl@ke

27/10/2011
9:47:01 PM

It was so there could be hard problems set. Its a pretty cool format. Non of this flash crap. Chuck them into some solid V14's

JimmyS

27/10/2011
10:32:11 PM

Yeah I like it. Some of the moves are insane. Especially that green dyno.

wallwombat

27/10/2011
11:08:54 PM

That's bogus - Jerry Moffatt wasn't there.

I'd like to see a REAL legends comp - Edlinger, Moffatt, Glowacz, Kauk , Filan, etc,etc.

All legends should be over 20.

Mike Bee

28/10/2011
8:30:32 AM

On 27/10/2011 bl@ke wrote:
>They got to work the problems the day before

Really? In the interview with Ondra after the second problem the MC says that Ondra has two "flashes". Wouldn't that imply that he was ticking on his first attempt?

Sonic

28/10/2011
4:54:54 PM

On 28/10/2011 Mike Bee wrote:
>On 27/10/2011 bl@ke wrote:
>>They got to work the problems the day before
>
>Really? In the interview with Ondra after the second problem the MC says
>that Ondra has two "flashes". Wouldn't that imply that he was ticking on
>his first attempt?

No, they were allowed two hours to work them. Heres a good explanation:
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38711

Also, how good is the swing start on the lapis ball! Look out next time I'm setting for boulder comps......

bl@ke

28/10/2011
8:34:09 PM

On 27/10/2011 wallwombat wrote:
>That's bogus - Jerry Moffatt wasn't there.
>
>I'd like to see a REAL legends comp - Edlinger, Moffatt, Glowacz, Kauk
>, Filan, etc,etc.
>
>All legends should be over 20.

It would be ok I guess. I dont know how they would go without their walkers. Plus the crowd would catch arthritis.

widewetandslippery

28/10/2011
8:58:38 PM

I'd get arreested.

Sonic

29/10/2011
1:35:46 PM

On 28/10/2011 bl@ke wrote:
>On 27/10/2011 wallwombat wrote:
>>That's bogus - Jerry Moffatt wasn't there.
>>
>>I'd like to see a REAL legends comp - Edlinger, Moffatt, Glowacz, Kauk
>>, Filan, etc,etc.
>>
>>All legends should be over 20.
>
>It would be ok I guess. I dont know how they would go without their walkers.
>Plus the crowd would catch arthritis.

Thats a bold call considering im pretty sure Stefan Glowacz could still outclimb most of us........

Eduardo Slabovic

29/10/2011
4:41:36 PM

Funny story about gladbag.

When he first (was it the first?) came to araps in the late 80's he attracted a lot of derision from the full timers (myself included) for arriving at the pines in his bmw and poncing about with no shirt and rainbow tights. We had no idea who he was but his first climb was Brolga in bare feet no gear but dragged two ropes tied together so he could TR his girlfriend up the climb.

We still didn't know who he was but respect was forthcoming.

Actually the respect came from the realisation he had a girlfriend not the climbing thing.

widewetandslippery

29/10/2011
6:27:43 PM

Who witnessed Gloenbitz ascent of the route with crap bolts in fortress gully?

dalai

2/11/2011
6:00:06 PM

La Sportiva Legends Only from Robert Rundin on Vimeo.

Much shorter version for those without the patience (or bandwidth) to sit through the 1 1/2 hours of the original.

simey

2/11/2011
6:25:08 PM

After 20 secs I was on the verge of throwing up all over my screen, but once the climbing started it was actually very good. Exceptional problems and exceptional climbing. Not a bad little clip at all.

spicelab

3/11/2011
10:12:02 AM

You get a really good appreciation of how Ondra *gets* climbing better than the others.

His body position and movement is somehow more intelligent and effective.

Very impressive.

There are 18 messages in this topic.