Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

Author	Climbing Videos
simey 7-Sep-2011 8:03:19 AM	On 7/09/2011 Wendy wrote: >Because I''ve never made any claim other than to be doing something totally >contrived! So you are allowed to do contrived ascents but Arnaud Petit isn't? >The route is a sport route. It's been done that way because the gear is minimal. It's been done that way because it is France and most climbs are established as sport-routes irrespective of natural protection. >what if he wanted to go and chop the bolts now he's proven it can be done without them? I don't think he is wanting to do that. I got the impression he just wanted to see if could climb that wall purely on natural gear. >If he wants to lead hard trad, he could just go lead hard trad... Well he just has, on a route that has provided a far more hard trad experience than most of the hard trad things out there. >And I do think there's minimal point placing the gear on lead if you know all the gear and even have it racked up ready to go. it's not exactly the trad leading experience either. What are you talking about? Of course it is more effort if you have to lug up the gear and hang around to place it. It is a definite step-up from having it pre-placed, particularly if you are tackling a 55m 8b. I'm just surprised that you can call his ascent contrived, particularly given your own approach of leading 15m routes on pre-placed gear after top-roping them. As for the trad leading experience, I think Arnaud Petit is no stranger to trad having climbed around the world on some pretty adventurous routes.
Wendy 7-Sep-2011 8:17:00 AM	On 7/09/2011 simey wrote: >On 7/09/2011 Wendy wrote: >>Because I''ve never made any claim other than to be doing something totally >>contrived! >So you are allowed to do contrived ascents but Arnaud Petit isn't? of course, you have it exactly right - the difference is I'm doing one of them! > >>The route is a sport route. It's been done that way because the gear >is minimal. >It's been done that way because it is France and most climbs are established >as sport-routes irrespective of natural protection. Bollocks! I've done plenty of trad climbing in France. It's done that way because french limestone tends to be very gear unfriendly, it's already a sport crag and there is in reality, not that much gear in it. > >>what if he wanted to go and chop the bolts now he's proven it can be >done without them? >I don't think he is wanting to do that. I got the impression he just wanted >to see if could climb that wall purely on natural gear. There's even at least one actual trad route on ceuse. > >>If he wants to lead hard trad, he could just go lead hard trad... >Well he just has, on a route that has provided a far more hard trad experience >than most of the hard trad things out there. > >>And I do think there's minimal point placing the gear on lead if you >know all the gear and even have it racked up ready to go. it's not exactly >the trad leading experience either. >What are you talking about? Of course it is more effort if you have to >lug up the gear and hang around to place it. It is a definite step-up from >having it pre-placed, particularly as he is tackling a 55m 8b. Go on, i've heard you argue that there's virtually no difference between toproping and placing the gear on lead in these circumstances! I'm just >surprised that you can call his ascent contrived, particularly given your >own approach of leading 15m routes on pre-placed gear after top-roping >them. As for the trad leading experience, I think Arnaud Petit is no stranger >to trad having climbed around the world on some pretty adventurous routes. > I've always been very dubious of headpointing. Headpointing on routes that already have bolts in them seems particularly dumb. Which isn't to say that I don't think he's a very good climber and it's not impressive - he's remarkably calm and solid whilst miles run out in that vid. I work hard routes on preplaced gear because I'm a complete wuss. Working something so you can lead it on manky gear is something I have never understood - not when it was the norm here in the 80s, when it's on grit nor when it's to do a sport route without the bolts,
simey 7-Sep-2011 8:26:51 AM	So in other words, you can top-rope the bejeezus of out of short, well-protected trad route and then pre-place all the gear in preparation for some sort of psuedo-lead experience. But if anyone else does anything that is an obvious step-up from what you do, then it is contrived?
Wendy 7-Sep-2011 8:29:31 AM	It's taking my pointlessness to an entirely new level!
pharmamatt 7-Sep-2011 9:38:43 AM	You notice at the end when they show the hand written topo that he gave it a E10 ?? grade. I thought that's a bit rich.
kieranl 7-Sep-2011 9:39:31 AM	On 7/09/2011 Wendy wrote: >It's taking my pointlessness to an entirely new level! You seem to be quibbling about degrees of pointlessness in an already pointless activity (climbing). As countless* people have pointed out to me, and I am sure to everyone else, there's a good** road to the top of Arapiles. * Countless as in "I couldn't be bothered counting them", not as in countable but infinite ** Good as in driveable, but not actually good
nmonteith 7-Sep-2011 9:40:07 AM	I can't believe people feel they need to belittle such an impressive ascent.
rodw 7-Sep-2011 10:34:31 AM	Once you post a video on something you are effectively inviting comment.....so are you saying Neil that you can only positive things? I can see were Wendy is coming from TBH, this sport is made up of stupid ethics/rules/guidelines that everyone views differently in terms of importance and the fact she thinks the ascent isn't that worthy is a reflection of her thoughts in it.....she dosn't have to think its a particularly worthy ascent if she dosn't want too... ....me personally, I dont really care, he can climb what he likes, how he likes...dosn't affect me or inspire me at all...kudos to him....but I wont be standing in line to help build a bronze statue of him or anything.
chalkischeap 7-Sep-2011 11:15:35 AM	Totally contrived and magnificent. That's great climbing. Wendy you seem to be arguing yourself into a blind alley. It sounds like you enjoy headpointing yourself. We simply adjust the amount of gear and practice to suit the chosen level of risk. It's all the same thing. Matt, what E grade would you give it?
nmonteith 7-Sep-2011 11:28:26 AM	On 7/09/2011 chalkischeap wrote: >Totally contrived and magnificent. That's great climbing. I would think an ascent clipping bits of metal that had been pre-drilled on absiel would be a more contrived ascent personally.
ajfclark 7-Sep-2011 11:30:53 AM	On 7/09/2011 Fish Boy wrote: >M9, those slings weren't girth hitched.. What's he done then? Has he cut and retied the sling? Otherwise I don't see how to attach it the sling and end up with only 2 thicknesses. [edit looking a few seconds earlier, there's only a single thickness of sling above that knot so it is just looped though the cam slings and tied off Still, didn't KP do a bunch of tests of slings looped through slings and decide it was a bad idea? [Edit: Maybe: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/de-ch/journal/mountain/all/qc-lab-extending-a-cam-sling-sling-on-sling-en-gb-en-eur ]
chalkischeap 7-Sep-2011 11:51:20 AM	On 7/09/2011 nmonteith wrote: > >I would think an ascent clipping bits of metal that had been pre-drilled >on absiel would be a more contrived ascent personally. Agreed. We just make up pointless challenges for ourselves. That's why it's fun.
nmonteith 7-Sep-2011 11:57:19 AM	On 7/09/2011 chalkischeap wrote: >Agreed. We just make up pointless challenges for ourselves. That's why >it's fun. He makes exactly that point at the end of the film.
Duncan 7-Sep-2011 1:20:47 PM	Quit bitching and post videos, bitches.
Fish Boy 7-Sep-2011 1:51:58 PM	Ok clarky, I thought we were talking about the thread he did...you win with your fancy skillz though!
Fish Boy 7-Sep-2011 1:53:40 PM	http://vimeo.com/27641846
Big G 7-Sep-2011 2:06:54 PM	scary
Doug 7-Sep-2011 2:37:37 PM	Now that's what I call a whipper! He looked really good up until that last bit ... I wonder what the sound would have been like?
nmonteith 7-Sep-2011 3:52:05 PM	Totally contrived. I don't know why he didn't just drill bolts, pre-place the draws and then climb it. Placing all that trad gear and taking such a big fall is pointless.
spicelab 7-Sep-2011 8:22:29 PM	On 7/09/2011 nmonteith wrote: >Totally contrived. I don't know why he didn't just drill bolts, pre-place >the draws and then climb it. Placing all that trad gear and taking such >a big fall is pointless. Besides, did you notice how he had all the gear ready to plug-and-place? How contrived and pointless is that? He should be taking up a full rack, hastily slung over his shoulder, and locating and placing the right piece individually. In fact, now that I think about it more, he probably shouldn't be allowed to take up his own rack. Excess familiarity with your own gear gets contrived and starts becoming too much like sportclimbing. Someone should just hand him a random rack that he has to deal with on route.

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.

Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints