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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

 Page 49 of 56. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 220 | 221 to 240 | 241 to 260 | 261 to 280 | 281 to 300 | 301 to 320 | 321 to 340 | 341 to 360 | 361 to 380 | 381 to 400 | 401 to 420 | 421 to 440 | 441 to 460 | 461 to 480 | 481 to 500 | 501 to 520 | 521 to 540 | 541 to 560 | 561 to 580 | 581 to 600 | 601 to 620 | 621 to 640 | 641 to 660 | 661 to 680 | 681 to 700 | 701 to 720 | 721 to 740 | 741 to 760 | 761 to 780 | 781 to 800 | 801 to 820 | 821 to 840 | 841 to 860 | 861 to 880 | 881 to 900 | 901 to 920 | 921 to 940 | 941 to 960 | 961 to 980 | 981 to 1000 | 1001 to 1020 | 1021 to 1040 | 1041 to 1060 | 1061 to 1080 | 1081 to 1100 | 1101 to 1105
Author
Climbing Videos
widewetandslippery
31-Aug-2011
11:30:07 AM
I don't wear bandannas
widewetandslippery
2-Sep-2011
9:37:19 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMHMvjmZDg4

Great filming but the soundtrack is a bit steven segal meets carlos castanada.

jaebo
2-Sep-2011
12:10:42 PM
ueli's new project...

http://www.himalayaspeed.com/category/episodes/
Fish Boy
5-Sep-2011
4:13:44 AM
ademmert
5-Sep-2011
1:06:17 PM
These guys are nuts! the bit where he jups off and runs along the side and just misses the end of the bridge!!!!! crikey!

ajfclark
6-Sep-2011
10:46:26 AM


The cam/sling connection at 8 minutes looks a little dicey to me...

nmonteith
6-Sep-2011
11:28:58 AM
That Ceuse video is extraordinary!

Sabu
6-Sep-2011
11:42:43 AM
That was cool!
spicelab
6-Sep-2011
11:44:11 AM
Agreed. Absolutely stunning.

Knowing how delicate and intense some of the 7a-7c facey routes can be at Ceuse, it puts the achievement in perspective.

The modesty is refreshing too.
Fish Boy
6-Sep-2011
3:20:41 PM
No David, not tricams. Did you listen to him repeating the words "Totem Cams" or notice his sponsorship? I guess not...look 'em up, or not.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6-Sep-2011
4:39:45 PM
On 6/09/2011 spicelab wrote:
>Agreed. Absolutely stunning.
>
Yes, it was well filmed, and a fine climbing achievement.

>Knowing how delicate and intense some of the 7a-7c facey routes can be
>at Ceuse, it puts the achievement in perspective.
>
>The modesty is refreshing too.

This is not a dig at you spicelab, but I disagree somewhat, as I thought he talked it up quite a bit for dramatic effect, and found myself thinking I was totally immersed in a commercial.

The climbing spoke for itself and was more than sufficient for my appreciation, however the runouts he did bypassed plenty of protection options along the way (unjustifiably assumes the strength/endurance to hang around and place the gear).

The thought that kept coming to me while watching, is that the bloke is more a sport climber than a tradster. Doubling up on gear but with only single points of connection does not equal true redundancy. Clipping karabiner to karabiner (even if screwgates), is also less than optimal safety practice, but obviously met his need, given he had other gear nearby.

I also agree with ajfclark that the sling arrangement at 8 mins is dodgy, as he has girth hitched one to two others together. I reckon a 15m fall onto girth hitched slings would be asking for trouble with them cheesewiring themselves. Interesting that the orange karabiner he used to rack them became the clipping krab, but he would have been safer having an extra krab to connect those two pieces, ie leaving it there, and use another one on the extension to clip the rope too.
I don't know if the whipper at the end was done for the stunt of it, but I would have liked to been able to eyeball the placements and sling arrangements after that fall.
kieranl
6-Sep-2011
5:07:01 PM
On 6/09/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>Very nicely filmed though, how
>did they do that?
I believe its called a camera.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6-Sep-2011
5:12:17 PM
On 6/09/2011 kieranl wrote:
>On 6/09/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>>Very nicely filmed though, how
>>did they do that?

>I believe its called a camera.

As opposed to this!


Heh, heh, heh.








(I think ODH was having a go at the latest smitten effort,... but will conveniently ignore that!)
hipdos
6-Sep-2011
5:18:20 PM
On 6/09/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>I'm not super impressed with people retro-tradding sport routes which they
>have completely wired. The runouts clearly aren't a huge issue for this
>dude as he was never going to fall off. Very nicely filmed though, how
>did they do that?

Did you see the bit in the credits at the end? He falls off.

nmonteith
6-Sep-2011
5:34:21 PM
That video certainly makes headpoint grit climbing look like contrived bouldering.
Wendy
6-Sep-2011
7:16:37 PM
On 6/09/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>That video certainly makes headpoint grit climbing look like contrived
>bouldering.

Did anyone else see a photo in recent Rock and Ice of the 8m boulder they turned into a 2 pitch route?

I also think this is pretty contrived. Ditto that guy doing the same thing on a 5.14 in the New. Rapping and checking out the gear, having it all racked up, draws on, in order on your harness ... Ok, so he's a strong climber. But really, "i've long been inspired to climb at Ceuse on trad"??? And it was like a commercial. His sponsors certainly couldn't complain about the coverage they got. Still, good looking route. I could understand why people rave about Ceuse in the 8s from that. I continue to profess it's a crap crag if you climb in the 6s though and sadly, not much better these days if you cilmb 7s.
Olbert
6-Sep-2011
8:15:44 PM
On 6/09/2011 Wendy wrote:
>But really, "i've long been inspired to climb at Ceuse on trad"???
> And it was like a commercial. His sponsors certainly couldn't complain
>about the coverage they got. Still, good looking route. I could understand
>why people rave about Ceuse in the 8s from that. I continue to profess
>it's a crap crag if you climb in the 6s though and sadly, not much better
>these days if you cilmb 7s.

Dam it - I was gonna write an "I'm psyched to climb there" post as I'll be meeting back up with Hamish in three days at Ceus. Now I'll have to settle with a "I'm happy to be back climbing and it's at Ceus" post
simey
6-Sep-2011
10:51:48 PM
On 6/09/2011 Wendy wrote:
>I also think this is pretty contrived. Ditto that guy doing the same
>thing on a 5.14 in the New. Rapping and checking out the gear, having it
>all racked up, draws on, in order on your harness ...

Why is this ascent any more contrived than your usual redpoint of routes - where all the gear is pre-placed? (not to mention the use of long slings on protection above to minimise run-outs and/or gnarly clips).
Fish Boy
7-Sep-2011
2:36:26 AM
M9, those slings weren't girth hitched...what is wrong with biner to biner? The gates can twist open which sucks but I see no issue when they are locked? I do it all the time...just wondering.
Wendy
7-Sep-2011
7:00:25 AM
On 6/09/2011 simey wrote:
>On 6/09/2011 Wendy wrote:
>>I also think this is pretty contrived. Ditto that guy doing the same
>>thing on a 5.14 in the New. Rapping and checking out the gear, having
>it
>>all racked up, draws on, in order on your harness ...
>
>Why is this ascent any more contrived than your usual redpoint of routes
>- where all the gear is pre-placed? (not to mention the use of long slings
>on protection above to minimise run-outs and/or gnarly clips).

Because I''ve never made any claim other than to be doing something totally contrived! I freely admit I turn hard trad routes into "better than sport" routes. And I'm certainly not denying myself the use of good protection that is there and available! The route is a sport route. It's been done that way because the gear is minimal. what if he wanted to go and chop the bolts now he's proven it can be done without them? If he wants to lead hard trad, he could just go lead hard trad ... And I do think there's minimal point placing the gear on lead if you know all the gear and even have it racked up ready to go. it's not exactly the trad leading experience either.

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There are 1105 messages in this topic.

 

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