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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

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Author

Climbing Videos

widewetandslippery

10-Jun-2011
10:00:22 AM

ODH is the 5yr old on the knoll. You all saw him wearing that baby bandicoot buggerer hat. Thats what he does. Buggers bandicoots and wanders up stream to boast about it at the Tuggeranong Mall. None of you have seen his chipped overbolted routes with names painted at the base in the ACT either.

widewetandslippery

10-Jun-2011
10:17:50 AM

Past the Cloisters


ajfclark

10-Jun-2011
11:10:23 AM

Part one was posted here http://www.rock.com.au/multimedia/video/zanskar-bouldering-part-one

Mindtaker

15-Jun-2011
6:34:18 AM

Don't know whether this has ever been posted here:

http://www.karstendelap.com/karstendelap/Blog/Entries/2011/6/9_BD_C3s.html

Greatest piece of gear holding a leader fall ever.

Mindtaker

15-Jun-2011
6:38:00 AM

And for the ice climbers, Steve House soloing some Cathedral Ledge classics (New Hampshire), Repentance and Remission.

http://video.patagonia.com/video/Repentance-Remission-2


ajfclark

15-Jun-2011
9:18:59 AM

On 15/06/2011 Mindtaker wrote:
>Greatest piece of gear holding a leader fall ever.

Wow. I'm amazed that placement holds like that. Cool.

pecheur

15-Jun-2011
10:01:11 AM

On 15/06/2011 ajfclark wrote:
>On 15/06/2011 Mindtaker wrote:
>>Greatest piece of gear holding a leader fall ever.
>
>Wow. I'm amazed that placement holds like that. Cool.

Yeah I'm pretty surprised one lobe held him too.

I suspect I'd get in a LOT of trouble if I tried that sort of placement ...


Sabu

15-Jun-2011
10:07:20 AM

Holy Balls! I'm amazed that held!


ajfclark

15-Jun-2011
10:13:41 AM

On 15/06/2011 pecheur wrote:
>Yeah I'm pretty surprised one lobe held him too.

It's hard to see in the video because it's not quite clear enough, but I think all three lobes are in contact with the rock:

It's also a 000 so it's only rated to 4kN.

simey

15-Jun-2011
10:13:48 AM

It's not that amazing that the gear held. There is a lot of rope out to absorb the fall, the cam is orientated for the fall and being placed in granite means there is less chance of it slipping. You still wouldn't want to rely on it as the only piece between you and the deck though (which it isn't).

pecheur

15-Jun-2011
10:22:16 AM

On 15/06/2011 ajfclark wrote:
>On 15/06/2011 pecheur wrote:
>>Yeah I'm pretty surprised one lobe held him too.
>
>It's hard to see in the video because it's not quite clear enough, but
>I think all three lobes are in contact with the rock:

>It's also a 000 so it's only rated to 4kN.

Argh, people that change posts whilst I'm replying :P

With a better look it does appear that that second lobe is at least partially wedged, that makes a lot more sense. I was thinking if it was just one lobe, even if the third lobe as touching the rock, the cam would just twist so there would be no camming forcing applied by the third (or second) lobe. With the second one being in, it can't do that, though the torque is being completely carried by the horizontal shaft of the head, cool.


nmonteith

15-Jun-2011
10:37:28 AM

In granite these sort of placements are bomber. In poorer quality sandstone however...

ClimbingNT

15-Jun-2011
9:14:43 PM

Not too sure if this one has been posted...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXIaMj3tYn8&feature


ChuckNorris

15-Jun-2011
9:20:18 PM

Quarryman - Think the YDS grade may be a bit of a sandbag.

http://novebi.ning.com/profiles/blogs/johnny-dawes-open-discussion

Dr Nick

15-Jun-2011
11:51:20 PM

Re: the C3 video. Is it just me, or does it look like a bomber #2 wire placement about 4cm above where the cam is? (I know sometimes it's hard to judge a placement from a single picture)


ajfclark

16-Jun-2011
7:40:39 AM

Looks like there might be a small wire just under it too (aorund where the trigger bar overlaps the crack in the photo).


DangerLaef

2-Jul-2011
5:08:49 PM

Chis Turner climbs "The Fear" on Sydney's North Head, 1992.

Grade 17, considered scarier than climbs twice it's grade, at a time when their were no climbs twice it's grade.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIyDySGRU6Q

climberman

2-Jul-2011
5:26:13 PM

On 2/07/2011 DangerLaef wrote:
>Chis Turner climbs "The Fear" on Sydney's North Head, 1992.
>
>Grade 17, considered scarier than climbs twice it's grade, at a time when
>their were no climbs twice it's grade.
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIyDySGRU6Q

A great reminder that Robin Hood is not the only place for men in tights.

cogsy

2-Jul-2011
10:26:23 PM

I love the comment.."safe as houses"..... well maybe as long as the whole cliff doesn't just disintegrate and fall into the sea!

Duncan

3-Jul-2011
11:34:09 AM

On 2/07/2011 DangerLaef wrote:
>Chis Turner climbs "The Fear" on Sydney's North Head, 1992.
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIyDySGRU6Q

So rad!

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