Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

Wild Country: Set of 7 X WC Rockcentrics. (Sizes 3 to 9) Anodized different colours! SUPER SPECIAL!  $119.00
21% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

 Page 1 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 92
Author
Buffalo aidclimb w/end 20-21March2010(~> Newbies!)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
Online Now
4/02/2010
6:31:34 PM
~> A general invite for folk considering trying out the dark arts of aid climbing! ... but not restricted to newbies, as anyone interested in this side of the game is welcome to participate.

I propose March 20-21st (weather being reasonable) as a weekend to meet up at Mt Buffalo, to share experience / learn about / try out clean-aid techniques!

I reckon the best way of learning is practical experience in a (relatively) controlled environment, and I am happy to share some prehistoric knowledge and equipment to assist others who may want to have a crack at the game.

It would be easy to fill in a weekend with participants leading, or seconding (in etts) as a top-rope, a few short routes to start dialling in technique, or clarify for themselves any further intentions they may have about aid climbing*.

Routes that come to mind readily are Creamed Rice & Mangoes (M2) at The Horn area; Thanksgiving Crack (M3) and also The Cream Machine (M4) at Disabled Lookout area (exposure and RP work, plus cam-hooking possibilities); Faust & Elizabeth out at Devils Couch area (lots of variety for the grade M4 .. maybe a bit M5ish due technical-strenuous, but it's not that thin. It is also about 35m long, so one can set up a hanging belay and haul there for those interested in that aspect of the game); Maybe try your hand at M5 Sportclimb (top pitch of Strange Ritual on the Nth Wall of The Gorge); and for those up to it, harder stuff can be found, or even the possibility of doing your own new route!
Alternatively come along and clean aid that free climb you have never been able to get up!

At this stage from PM conversations I have had behind the scenes, it is likely there will be 3 starters at least, and I anticipate a relaxed weekend (no pressure), with people attending for as little or as long as they want to.


Bring your gear, or make up the innovations that you have been thinking about, and test them out! Afterwards camp at Lake Catani and enjoy the social aspect of climbing camaraderie.


(*)Usual caveats apply.
  • Aid climbing can be boring as- ~> especially for belayers.
  • It is often slow.
  • It can be hard (both physically and mentally).
  • All care taken but no responsibility accepted by the proposer of this adventure!
  • You can fall and hurt yourself or die, etc, etc.






  • bagotup
    4/02/2010
    6:38:41 PM
    Sounds like a brilliant opportunity.
    Good on you M9.

    Who's keen to take the 13 hr trip from the Coffs coast?
    Fish Boy
    4/02/2010
    8:13:26 PM
    You show me the new route M9 and I'm there...thinking of finishing that Gren Hinton (?) thing? I was perving on that whilst rapping a few weeks ago.

    I'm not goning to teach anyone anything cos I suck, but who wants to do ozy/direct in a day? My usual parteners are preoccupied with life and show no interest...


    wallwombat
    4/02/2010
    9:19:49 PM
    I wouldn't mind giving Fuhrer a go. If I can convince widewetandslippery, I'm in.
    racingtadpole
    5/02/2010
    9:37:54 AM
    Im keen but cant do that weekend. Let me know if you decide to have a second crack at it.

    ajfclark
    5/02/2010
    11:16:26 AM
    I'm keen but unfortunately it's my better half's birthday that weekend. Will tee something up some other time.
    davids
    5/02/2010
    12:33:44 PM
    What grade would one need to be leading on trad (at say Araps) to be suitable for this course? I'm one of those old blokes who sees climbing more as a bushwalk going upwards, so I'm sure I'd love the experience. But I wouldn't want to be holding everyone else up and spoiling their weekend.
    David
    robertsonja
    5/02/2010
    12:46:47 PM
    On 5/02/2010 davids wrote:
    >What grade would one need to be leading on trad (at say Araps) to be suitable
    >for this course? I'm one of those old blokes who sees climbing more as
    >a bushwalk going upwards, so I'm sure I'd love the experience. But I wouldn't
    >want to be holding everyone else up and spoiling their weekend.
    >David

    You would have to be leading at least grade 2 or 3 on trad gear to able to aid climb. If you see climbing as bushwalking and the art of moving upwards you may not enjoy aid climbing that much.......being sarcastic of course, its kind of sadistic fun.

    IdratherbeclimbingM9
    Online Now
    5/02/2010
    1:19:16 PM
    On 5/02/2010 davids wrote:
    >What grade would one need to be leading on trad (at say Araps) to be suitable
    >for this course? I'm one of those old blokes who sees climbing more as
    >a bushwalk going upwards, so I'm sure I'd love the experience. But I wouldn't
    >want to be holding everyone else up and spoiling their weekend.
    >David

    It is not a formal course. Hopefully more a gathering of like minded individuals to share experience etc. How it turns out will be a direct reflection of the number of participants and what they want to do/get out of it.
    Regarding grade ability, there is none really, 2 or 3 as robertsonja wrote makes sense to me! That is the beauty of aid, it can take you places you would not otherwise be able to get to.

    My idea came about due to the number of behind the scenes enquiries I receive about aid climbing. So I figured a weekend to explain the basics to anyone interested and let people try for themselves would be a good thing. The range of ability of participants could easily vary from onlookers, through to people wanting to know intricate haul systems, and how to get the best out of any equipment involved.
    I would hope to be able to target advice to the level of enquiry/ies made, ie relevant to ability/aspirations. The ongoing application of any techniques learnt will vary greatly, from just a head knowledge of some simple things to assist in getting up a short section of a climb found to be too difficult (self rescue?) / confidence in placements, through to those who might want to spend significant time on a wall (portaledging etc).

    If more experienced folk turn up, then the lesser experienced folk can get a wider overview of what works for some and maybe not work so well for others?; as there are many types/levels of aid/technique and personal preference plays a large part in what/how they are used.
    If you intend to lead an aid route then I would suggest choosing a line that appeals and grade of climb that you are comfortable with, ie similar or slightly harder than what you are already comfortable leading/following. I would expect that there will be a number of us within close proximity to assist folk by answering questions / demonstrating technique, etc where needed. Even the experience of cleaning an aid route off jumars will prove educational for some folk!

    Having said that, the routes I have suggested as a 'graded' experience in the original post, are generally quite short, but some of them are on the Gorge rim and consequently quite exposed. This may not suit some folk, and that being the case, I can find other locations to meet their need.
    At present due to not knowing the numbers, or abilities, of folk likely to be involved, it will be an ongoing process of evolution rather than anyone having their weekend spoilt.

    Phil Box
    5/02/2010
    5:48:17 PM
    Dammit, I would have loved to have been there but alas prior engagement. Mebbe another time eh.

    IdratherbeclimbingM9
    Online Now
    5/02/2010
    6:01:05 PM
    On 5/02/2010 Phil Box wrote:
    >Dammit, I would have loved to have been there but alas prior engagement.
    >Mebbe another time eh.

    Would be good to climb with you sometime Phil. I am also interested in your Russian Aider technique, as I am not experienced in that area. In fact I may do some innovation & testing re that technique on this proposed occasion myself in that respect.

    >Mebbe another time eh.

    If it proves to be half popular, then it is likely to have a follow-on trip/s as people progress their abilities, and judging by a couple of posts above there will still be a latent need to fulfill.



    Post edit;
    Fish Boy wrote;
    >thinking of finishing that Gren Hinton (?) thing?

    You are not alone in that thought, since the new guide came out.
    M10 is a bit advanced for this proposed w/end though...
    ;-)


    2nd Post edit;
    I have had another couple of PM additions in the background since posting this thread, so that makes a likely five starters at this point in time.
    ~> Prospective participants are probably better off registering your interest on this thread, as my PM box is pretty much maxed out at the moment.

    IdratherbeclimbingM9
    Online Now
    5/02/2010
    6:34:05 PM
    Some of the PMs I have had asked about gear to bring.
    ~> Bring whatever you have and I will try to supplement it with what you may need.

    If there are plenty of participants who don't have much gear, and I start running short*, then it will have to be rotated amongst same.
    It would be good if folk have the basics of their own harness, helmet, rope, rack, nut-pick and belay device. Beyond that it would be a bonus (ie makes my gear go further amongst those who may use it), if they have access to (borrow from someone?) / can bring; ettriers, daisies, fifis, ascenders, and any specialised aid gear (hooks, pullies, etc).

    (*I have two loaner sets of etts, but we can improvise additional for short aid routes by girth hitching your medium length slings together!).

    wallwombat
    5/02/2010
    6:35:31 PM
    On 4/02/2010 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

    > Afterwards camp at Lake Catani and enjoy the social aspect of climbing camaraderie.

    Does that mean get pissed?

    IdratherbeclimbingM9
    Online Now
    5/02/2010
    6:39:35 PM
    Only if you byo and are a happy drunk...
    ;-)

    wallwombat
    5/02/2010
    6:48:11 PM
    On 5/02/2010 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
    >Only if you byo and are a happy drunk...

    My van is like a mobile Dan Murphy's and I'm an ecstatic drunk.

    It's widewetandslippery that you've got to watch out for - he has a habit of throwing his empties at old cavers.

    M9, I haven't got the Buff guide. Any tips for a good mixed route on the North Wall that would suit a quickish one day ascent. I was thinking about Fuhrer.

    IdratherbeclimbingM9
    Online Now
    5/02/2010
    6:58:03 PM
    Defender of The Faith (not far left of Fuhrer), has a lot more variety, is similar length and grade to Fuhrer.
    Another one of similar grade that is under-rated in my opinion, located further left again, ~ and consequently a pitch shorter, that is often overlooked (but worth doing), is Zeus.
    brendan
    5/02/2010
    7:35:13 PM
    i would be keen to head down, my car is broken at the moment so have to see closer to the date.

    wallwombat
    5/02/2010
    7:54:01 PM
    On 5/02/2010 brendan wrote:
    >i would be keen to head down, my car is broken at the moment so have to
    >see closer to the date.

    I could probably give you a lift if your car is still broken by the proposed date.
    Fish Boy
    6/02/2010
    4:05:45 PM
    Cmon, who wants to do ozy in a day?

    wallwombat
    6/02/2010
    7:32:18 PM
    On 6/02/2010 Fish Boy wrote:
    >Cmon, who wants to do ozy in a day?

    I was planning on conning my usual partner into doing that with me, on my birthday in October, after I spend a few months getting fit. All Iv'e been doing for the last few months is going bouldering, which isn't great prep for Ozy in a day.

    I don't think I could bet fit enough to do it by March. October is more realistic. It's going to be my birthday present to myself. I've already started drinking low carb beer.

    I reckon Brendon is your man. He just got back from NZ so he must be fit.

     Page 1 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 92
    There are 92 messages in this topic.

     

    Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
    Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

    Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



    Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
    Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints